With a nice lady I met while hiking above the Moonstone, which can be seen in the background.

My Peruvian Adventure, Part 2 —  Exploring Cusco and The Sacred Valley With Señor Odon Perez Quispe

(Saturday, April 8 to Wednesday Morning, April 12, 2017)

 

As I mentioned in my first post, upon the recommendation of my veternarian and friend Dr. Elizabeth Fowler, I decided to go to Cusco, Peru for a week before my planned hike of the Inca Trail with the Wilderness Travel group.  I had two primary goals:  first, to make sure I was completely acclimated to the altitude; and second, to visit archaeological sites in the area of Cusco that would not be included in the Wilderness Travel itinerary.  Originally my plan was to hike and/ or take public transportation to these sites.  But in doing my research, I discovered that hiring a local guide and driver would not be that expensive, so that is what I decided to do.  After making a number of inquiries (it took a lot of emails, back and forth), I choose Kondor Path to help me with this part of my trip.  Patricia Delgado and I went back and forth and fashioned a five day itinerary that included all my goals (ie the sites I wanted to see) as well as a few that she recommended.  The result was five days filled with adventure and wonder as I explored around Cusco.  My guide was Odon Perez Quispe and my driver was David Roger Champi Pontecil.  David had a nice car, which he kept spotless.  He typically did not hike with us to the sites, but he did accompany us on a few, most notably Naupa Iglesia.  Odon and David would pick me up at the crack of dawn and often it was well past sunset when they dropped me off back at the Rumi Punku. Odon, David,  and I formed friendships during out time together.  I am grateful for their help, their energy, and their generosity.

The first morning that we met (Saturday, April 8, 2017), Odon and I went over our itinerary for the next 5 days.  When we discussed Pisac, and my desire to attend church there the next day, I could tell Odon was emotional.  He explained that that church is the last one that still does a Mass in Quechuan (his native tongue), and that he rarely gets the opportunity to attend church there.  When we got to the hike to Huchuy Cusco, I could tell he was cautiously skeptical, asking me “You understand this is a very difficult hike, no?”.  I assured him I could make it, but I am sure he had some doubts about my ability to do so.  Of course, I took great satisfaction in proving him wrong!  In this post I attempt to chronicle my time with Odon and David, and to give you a glimpse of the magnificent things I experienced with them.  I hope you enjoy!

Cusco South Valley (Saturday, April 8, 2017)

Rumiqolqa…

Bright and early we headed south out of Cusco.  Our first stop was Rumiqolqa, a magnificent ruin.  It was originally built by the Wari culture (a pre-Inca civilization, 550 – 900 A.D.) as an aqueduct to provide water to nearby Pikillaqta from Lake Huacarpay.  The Inca modified Rumiqolqa, and it served as a gate to separate the northern region of Cusco from the southern region of Puno.  You can clearly see the contrast between the crude Wari stonework and the subsequent improvements made by the Inca, with their outstanding masonry skills.  It was a beautiful and interesting site to visit.

Yours truly, in front of the center, or gate, portion of the Rumiqolqa adqueduct.
Note the contrast between the large Inca Stones and the smaller Wari stones.
In this shot you can clearly see the water channel on the top of the aqueduct. Log troughs were used to bridge the gap in the center or gap portion.

Andahuaylillas and The Sistine Chapel of the Andes…

 

We left Rumiqolqa and drove further south to the small town of Andahuaylillas, best known for a chapel there known as “The Sistine Chapel of the Andes” because of its beautiful murals.  The chapel (“San Pedro Apostol de Andahuaylillas”) was built by Jesuits in the 16th century over an Inca huaca, or ceremonial space.  You can still see some of the large Inca founation stones as well as some beautiful pre-Inca carved stones that are displayed near the chapel.  I also visited a small museum located near the chapel and enjoyed walking around the town square, which has a number of very large, and very old Pisonay trees.  The inside of the chapel is amazing.  Besides the many stunning murals, there is lots of gold and silver.  The main altar is made of cedar covered with gold and silver plating.  I honored the request not to take photos inside of the chapel, but you can see some photos and a video if you look here.

The San Pedro Apostol de Andahuaylillas Chapel, 25 miles south of Cusco and at an elevation of 10,000 feet.
One of the pre-Inca carvings on display near the chapel. Note the Inca stones in the background on the right.
A magnificent carved puma.
One of the 400 year old pisonay trees that line the Andahuaylillas square.
The small museum at Andahuaylillas had a colorful display of corn.
The star attraction at the museum was an elongated skull, purportedly from an alien!

The Monumental Wari Site of Pikillaqta…

 

We left Andahuaylillas and headed back toward Cusco.  We next stopped at the pre-Inca Wari site known as Pikillaqta.  According to Odon, Pikillaqta literally translated means “flea house”.  It is a huge site and we spent a couple of hours hiking around the area, much of the time in rain showers.  The Wari stonework is crude compared to the Inca master stone masons, but the site was interesting none-the-less.

Braving the rain at Pikillaqta.
One of the areas where archaeologists have excavated at Pikillaqta.
One small section of the site, which is indeed monumental.

The Magnificent Tipon Complex…


Our last stop of the day was the magnificent Inca site known as the Tipon complex.  Much of this complex was constructed by Wiraqocha, the eighth Inca king.  Covering almost 600 acres, this site has 12 terraces, ornamental waterfalls and channels, and enclosures, and that is just on the lower portion.  The upper part of the site has a Pukara (a defensive hilltop site), an Intiwatana (ceremonial area for the sun), and a portion of original Inca trail that features an intact canal and aquaduct running down the middle of it.  This was a beautiful and sacred place and Odon and I spent several hours there.  My pictures fail to convey the scope and beauty of Tipon, but I hope you enjoy them anyway!

The first water feature we encountered at Tipon, an irrigation channel on a lower terrace at the site.
This shot shows the water flowing from terrace to terrace to terrance. Note the "flying stairs" on the right wall.
Combining function and ceremony...an ornamental/ceremonial section of the irrigation system at Tipon.
I took this shot as we climbed up to the Pukara sector (defensive hilltop). It gives you a little idea of the scope of this site.

As Odon and I climbed up to the higher sectors at Tipon (the Pukara and Intiwatana), the views were breathtaking.  The highest portion of the site is 11,155 feet above sea level.  The ceremonial areas up there were magnificent, as was the section of original Inca trail that had an aquaduct in the middle of it!

Looking down upon the Pukara (or defensive hilltop) sector at Tipon.
A small plaza at the Intiwatana ceremonial sun sector.
A ceremonial water feature at the Intiwatana...amazing that these are still functional after all these years!
An original section of Inca trail with an aquaduct running down the middle of it...truly amazing!

Before heading back into Cusco and calling it a day, we stopped at the well known “Cuy Horno” (guinea pig oven) in the village of Tipon and I bought Odon and David dinner.  One other thing I wanted to mention from that first day.  As we hiked back down from the higher sectors at Tipon, Odon pointed out several HUGE hummingbirds.  They were so fast I wasn’t able to get a good photo, but they were amazing.  If you ever visit Tipon, be on the lookout for them!

Pisac, Ankas Markas, and Uno Orqo (Sunday, April 9, 0217)

 

Bright and early Sunday morning, April 9, 2017, we set out from Cusco, bound for Pisac in the Sacred Valley and a couple of other sites located there.  Our first stop was the Cristo Blanco, the 26 foot high statute of Christ that overlooks colonial Cusco and was a gift from Palestinians who sought refuge in Cusco during world War II.  As we entered the pass that leads down into the Sacred Valley, we stopped and took in the view of the small town of Taray and the valley below.

Cristo Blanco, standing watch over Cusco.
The view down into Cusco from the base of the Cristo Blanco. The Plaza de Armas and Cathedral are clearly visible from this viewpoint.
The view down onto Taray and the Urubamba River in the Sacred Valley.

The Ruins at Pisac and Palm Sunday at Iglesia de San Pedro Apostol…

We stopped at the Village of Pisac to confirm that the procession at the church was at 11:00 a.m.  We then drove up to the ruins, arriving there at 8:30 a.m.  We spent a couple of hours hiking the ruins, which are magnificent.  Much of the site was closed that day (due to rock slides), but I was not concerned because I knew that later that week (Thursday) I would visit the site again with the folks from Wilderness Travel.  It is a magnificent site with many, many terraces, structures, ceremonial areas (including baths), and tombs.  Odon said that scientists studying the terraces had determined that at certain times of the year there is a 55 degree temperature difference between the lowest and highest terrace.  We had a great time exploring the part of the site that was open.

Some of the terraces at Pisac.
In the center of this photo you can see the gate that separates the terraces (farming) from the residential and ceremonial sectors at Pisac.
Yours truly, at the Pisac Gate.
This area had some smaller terraces below ceremonial baths. There were numerous tombs on the opposite cliff face.

After hiking at the ruins, we drove back down to the village in time to see the magnificent procession of elders and the call to worship by young men blowing conch shells.  It was a colorful and moving scene.  Odon and I went inside for the service and, although the sermon was in Quechuan and I didn’t understand a word, I felt very close to God that day.  This is the only church in the region (and, some say, in all of Peru) that still does Mass in the native Quechuan language.  What a blessing to be there that day!

The elders and local officials come down from the smaller mountain towns to process into the service.
These men are "Varayocs" or mayors as signified by their staffs, inlaid with silver.
Younger men and boys sounding the call to worship using "Pututos", ancient Andean instruments made from large shells.
A priest blesses the women and children using flowers dipped in holy water.
Heading into the church for Palm Sunday mass.

The Ruins at Ankas Markas…


After church, we grabbed a bite to eat at the Pisac Market, then headed toward Calca, where we left the main road and drove up past the small Torta Andes community to the Ankas Markas ruins.   Ankas Markas was primarily a storage area, and consists of several hundred structures that were used to store mainly food items for the Inca Empire.  This site was known as one of the “Gateways to the Jungle”, which provided the empire with fruits and coca leaves.  There are many, many old terraces on the nearby mountains where the food that was stored at Ankas Markas was grown.

Signage as we entered Ankas Markas. Near here I saw a young girl tending llamas in the rain, with her two dogs. I stopped and gave her a kerchief and a Texas coin purse. She asked that I not take her picture. So sad that many children do not attend school in the mountains.
Yours truly at the high point of Ankas Markas. Note the old terraces on the mountain behind me.
A portion of the remains of the circular storage structures at Ankas Markas.
A restored storage structure at Ankas Markas.

Ending the Day at Uno Orqo…


After driving down from Ankas Markas, we made our way to our last site of the day,  a small ceremonial site near Calca called Uno Orqo.  Odon said it was an Inca ritual/ceremonial site.  The center of the small site is a huge boulder, carved with water channels that end at the carved head of a serpent.  I wish I understood more about this site, but it was interesting to see.

The Uno Orqo site, with the large carved serpent boulder in the middle.
A closer look at the carved serpent head at Uno Orqo.

Quillarumioc, Naupa Iglesia, Maras, Moray, and Chinchero (Monday, April 10, 2017)


We headed out of Cusco Monday morning headed northeast to visit a number of sites.  A couple are seldom visited, while two others are almost always visited by tourists to the area.  It was a great day, with a nice mix of archaeology and culture!

Quillarumioc, The “Moonstone” Site…


Our first stop of the day was at the Quillarumioc Site, about 50 km from Cusco, near the village of Antahua.  It is a large site, with terraces, ceremonial water areas, small caves, and many huacas (sacred stones).  Many of the huacas have simple altars carved on them.  We spent a couple of hours exploring the lower portions of the site.  The signature element at the site is a great huaca (“The Moonstone”) carved with a geometric representation of the moon, honoring the moon goddess “Quilla”.  Nearby is a ceremonial area with a beautiful waterfall and large niches for the placement of idols.  A sacred feeling is strong at this place, and I am glad I got to visit it!

Greeted by a couple of llamas as we hiked up to the site.
This small cave had petroglyphs and signs of recent ritual activity (coca leaves).
A ceremonial area featuring a waterfall and idol niches. If you look closely, you can see the moonstone in the background.
Odon, contemplating the Moonstone.
One final picture from this beautiful place.

Naupa Iglesia…


We left the Moonstone site and headed for an obscure site known as Naupa Iglesia.  A “naupa” is an inhabitant of the spiritual world.  Odon said this remote and hard to access site was used for restricted shamanic rituals.  The main cave and site sits high above some old terraces.  About half way up, on the right is the first ritual area.  It is small, with several niches for offerings.  The main site is magnificent.  On the right hand side of the cave is a magnificent, precisely carved portal, or door.  This portal has two levels, one for the physical body and one for the spirit.  There is a large outcrop of blue stone at the mouth of the cave with a precisely carved altar, that almost looks like a throne.  Odon said that this stone used to have many carved altars (12), but was dynamited by the Spanish during their campaign to destroy Inca ritual sites.  To the left (if facing the cave) of this large rock is a masonry wall containing more niches.  When we arrived at the main site, there were several people there and one, who claimed to be a shaman, greatly irritated Odon, who had sharp words with him in Quechuan.  Odon later told me that this man disrespects this sacred place by performing bogus rituals for profit.  I immensely enjoyed this site, despite the irritating people there.  The precision of the carvings in the solid stone is truly amazing and the Spirit is strong in this place!

The Naupa Iglesia main site is to the right, above the terraces.
The small altar at Naupa Iglesia, located about half way up the terrances.
The precisely carved door to the spirit world. The "shaman" had a lot of crap laying around, which was one reason he greatly irritated Odon.
The carved stone altar at the mouth of the cave. It you look closely to the lower left, you can see a drill hole from the dynamiting.
Niches to the left of the carved stone altar at Naupa Iglesia.

The Maras Salt Mines…


After spending time at Naupa Iglesia, we headed to Maras a town 40 km north of Cusco known for its salt evaporation ponds, which have been in use since pre-Inca times. The salt-evaporation ponds are four kilometers north of the town, down a canyon that descends to the Rio Vilcanota and the Sacred Valley.  There are over 5,000 salt ponds, owned by people who live in Maras.  Odon said when you are born there, you get one!  Salt is obtained by evaporating salty water from a local subterranean stream.  Odon said that while oceans are typically 6% salinity, this stream at the mines has been measured at 9% to 11% salinity. The highly salty water emerges at a spring, a natural outlet of the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels constructed so that the water runs gradually down onto the several hundred ancient terraced ponds. Almost all the ponds are less than four meters square in area, and none exceeds thirty centimeters in depth. All are necessarily shaped into polygons with the flow of water carefully controlled and monitored by the workers.  We walked down into the mine to observe the mechanics and it was amazing.  I recently read that in 2019 they decided to not allow tourists to walk down into the mine any longer.  What a beautiful and interesting place!

The view down into the salt mine, with the Sacred Valley in the background.
Odon, walking along one of the channels that feeds the evaporation pools.
Yours truly, at the Maras Salt Mines.

The Circular Terraces of Moray…


From Maras, we headed over to the Moray site, which is famously known for its circular agricultural terraces.  It is a magnificent setting, high above the Sacred Valley.  It struck me as odd that there were hardly any structures at the site.  Odon explained it was like an experimental agricultural station.  The Incas were trying to develop a place where they could raise coca, so that it wouldn’t have to be brought in from the jungle.  I am glad I got to see this special place!

The largest of the terrace complexes at Moray, called Q'echuyoq Muyu.
This detail photo shows the flying stairs and the irrigation channels on the circular walls.
Yours truly, enjoying the spectacular views at Moray.
This photo shows the smaller terrace called Intiwatana and showcases the 11,500' altitude of the high plateau where the site is found.

Winding Up The Day At Chinchero…


We left Moray and headed toward Chinchero, a small town on the high plateau known for its ruins and its iconic weavers.  We spent most of our time there at a private home that gives weaving demonstrations (see Part one of this blog for more details).  But on the way we passed some magnificent storage ruins and we had an execellent view of the Chinchero ruins from the home we visited.  Here are the final photos from this day from Chinchero.

We enjoyed some beautiful views down into the Sacred Valley on the way to Chinchero.
Massive storage ruins on the way to Chinchero.
Ruins at Chinchero. Note the huge stone outcrop in the center.
The Spanish built a church on top of an Inca Temple in Chinchero.
The Inca carved stairs and altars into the great stone at Chinchero.

The Hike to Huchuy Cusco (Tuesday, April 11, 2017)


Today was the day I was to test my legs and my lungs on the hike to Huchuy Cusco (literally means “Little Cusco”).   The trail begins near Lamay (elevation of 9, 580′) and it took Odon and I about three and half hours to hike up the 2,400′ of elevation to Huchuy Cusco (elevation of 11,980).  The site was constructed by Wiraqocha, the 8th Inca ruler, and became the property of his son Pachakuti, who deposed him.  The Spanish conquistador Gonzolo Pizarro looted Huchuy Qosqo and burned the mummy of Viracocha about 1534.  The site has the remains of the royal residence, a large (40 meters) meeting hall, a cermonial water feature, large terraces, and other structures.  A few buildings have been restored, complete with thatched roofs.  We also climbed up a portion of original Inca trail to the gate above the site.  Travelers from Cusco would have passed through this gate.  There only a couple of other visitors at this hard to reach site and Odon and I enjoyed our time exploring the area.

On the trail, about half way up to the site. You can see the river and Lamay down below.
The terrace walls had inset stairs...
You can see some of the restored buildings behind me.
A small ceremonial water feature at the site.
View of the trail up to the gate. This trail leads to Cusco.
At the gate above Huchuy Cusco.
Fine masonry work indicates this was an elite residence.
View from the inside...
One final picture of some amazing Inca stone work.
Sharing the trail from the gate with sheep.

After hiking down from Huchuy Cusco, we headed back to Cusco.  We stopped off in Piscac for ice cream and so I could shop for a few gifts.  I bought Dorothy a peice of jewelry and I bought a couple of shawls, one of which I gave to the sweet shopkeeper near my hotel the next morning.  I was glad to get back to the Rumi Punku in time to rest, clean up, and repack my things.  That night the folks from Kondor Path took me to dinner at La Cusquenita, and a good time was had by all.

One Last Morning With Odon Exploring Around Cusco (Wednesday, April 12, 2017)


Odon and I spent our last morning together visiting sites just to the north of Cusco.  We visited Qenqo, Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Kusilluchayoq, and the Moon Temple in the non-tourist part of Saqsayhuaman.  We then visited the San Pedro market in town.  Before Odon dropped me off at Hotel Monastario (where I would meet up with the Wilderness Travel group), he introduced me to his wife and daughter.  Such sweet people!  The highlight of this morning was our visit to the Moon Temple, which is located right on the Inca Trail.  In September (on the equinox at midnight), the main altar is perfectly illuminated by moonlight which shines through a hole the Incas fashioned in the ceiling.  This area is off limits to visitors, but Odon knew the guard and, with a little tip and some friendly persuasion, he looked the other way so we could enter the temple.

The Qenqo Huaca…


This is a small, but very interesting site.  Qenqo, in Quechua, means labyrinth or zigzag.  The site is a huge stone huaca that has been carved by the Inca.  The site has several underground chambers.   It is believed to a be a holy place where death rituals took place.  Small canals carved into the stone were used to carry liquid that could have been corn beer, holy water, or even human or animal blood. The liquid may have been used for sacrifices or as a process in death rituals or as a way for religious leaders to determine whether the dead lived a good life by the direction the liquid flowed. A canal leads to an underground chamber, that is aptly called the Chamber of Sacrifices. The underground space is believed to be a place where noblemen were embalmed and mummified in preparation for the afterlife. Next to the large rock structure, there is an  amphitheater-like area formed in a semicircular shape that is 55 meters long, and contains 19 large niches along the wall. It is believed to be a seating area for ceremonies and rituals but recent theories suggest that it was once part of a base of a large wall where statues, or embalmed Incas, were placed for worshiping.  There is also a large stone monolith in this area that was defaced by the Spainards.  Odon said it was a statue of a Puma before it was defaced.  I thoroughly enjoyed visiting this sacred and powerful place.

Signage at the Quenqo site.
This view of the main rock at Quenqo clearly shows the many carvings made by the Inka.
The main mumification area at Quenqo.
The ampitheatre section of Quenqo with the large seats, or niches.
The large stone carving/monolith at Quenqo that was defaced by the Spainards.
According to Odon, the bodies of elites prepared at Quenqo were transported to Salcantay for burial in the tombs there.

The Tambomachay Baths…


We left Quenqo and headed over to Tambomachay.  This site was a place where the elites from Cusco would come to relax and enjoy the hot baths.  The site is fed warm water from a nearby hot spring.  It is a beautiful example of very fine Inca stone work…

Signage at the Tambomachay site.
The main structures at the magnificent Tambomachay.
Yes, I was there!
A little different view of the beauty at Tambomachay.

Puka Pucara, The Red Fortress…


We  next stopped at Puka Pucara, a small site whose name means “Red Fortress”.   Odon said it was an important defensive and control site for the route into Cusco.  Some of the rocks used by the Inca appear to turn red in color at the twilight hour, hence the name.  Odon pointed out several unique masonry techniques at the site:  “cellular design”, stair handles, and “turning the corner”.  It was an interesting little site!

Puka Pucara. Note the large fine stones at the main entrance...some "turn the corner".
Puka Pucara has three levels...one on top two down the hill. This shot is from the lowest level.
Small niches act as "stair handles" near stairs going to and from a lower level.
Odon called this "cellular design". A roundish rock in the center, surrounded by other rocks around the perimiter...almost like a flower.

The Moon Temple at Saqsayhuaman…


We left Puka Pucara and Odon had David drop us off and instructed him to meet us at a location later, down in Cusco (turns out it is where the main Inca Trail enters Cusco proper after passing through the non tourist sections of Saqsayhuaman).  We hiked over to a very large rock hill, that was roped off and guarded.  As I noted above, Odon knew the guard and arranged for him to look the other way as we hiked up to the entrance of a cave that is known as the Temple of the Moon.  Inside the cave there were several altars.  The main altar was deepest in the cave, and it is the one that gets illuminated by moonlight at midnight during the September equinox.  As we explored the cave, Odon showed me the remains of carvings at the entrance to the cave.  He said the cave was “guarded” by a snake, a puma, and a condor, but that these had been defaced by the Spanish.  This was a magnificent place, and I am grateful that I got to experience it!

Carved terraces lead up to the cave known as the Temple of the Moon.
You begin to see small altars as soon as you enter the cave.
This altar is a little deeper into the cave and you pass it on the way to the main altar.
The magnificent main altar at the Temple of the Moon...illuminated by sunlight coming through an opening in the ceiling of the cave.
Odon discussing what is left of the serpent carving that guarded the Temple of the Moon.
The defaced puma carving at the entrance to the cave.

Kusilluchayoq, “The Monkey Place” Huacas…


After Odon and I explored the Moon Temple, we started walking on the Inca trail, which passes right by the site on the way into Cusco proper.  Had we turned left, we could have walked on this trail all the way to Huchuy Cusco, where we were yesterday.  But we turned right and headed toward Cusco.  In a short time (300 meters), we came to a final small site, a collection of huacas called “Kusilluchayoq”.  Odon said this word means “monkey place”.  We wandered through the area, exploring the many small niches and altars found there.  Odon said that the area is still used often by indigenous peoples to make offerings and that it is regularly patrolled by law enforcement because it is illegal to make live animal sacrifices in this area, but some people still do it.  After exploring the area, we hiked the Inca trail down to a spot where it hit a paved road.  David was waiting for us there, and took us to the San Pedro Market downtown, which Odon insisted I see.  After walking through the market (so colorful and enjoyable!) we met up with Odon’s wife and daughter.  I had gifts for each of them and, after doing my best to tell Odon how much I appreciated his generosity and expertise, we said our goodbyes and David dropped me off at Hotel Monastario where I would begin the next part of my trip with the folks from Wilderness travel.

The Inca trail as we headed toward Kusilluchayoq and Cusco. This part of the trail gets a suprising amount of traffic from Quechuan people.
The sign pointing us off trail to "The Monkey Place".
One of the larger altar areas we encountered at the site.
Yours truly standing in front of the altars in the above photo.
Most of the offerings we saw were like this one, mainly flowers and coca leaves. Odon said an offering will ALWAYS include coca leaves.
This part of Kusilluchayoq had masonry niches and carved stone altars.
As we left Kusilluchayoq, the Inca trail began to go downhill and entered a wooded area. In short order we met up with David.

Epilogue…


Well, this is the end of my blog that covers the time I spent with Odon, David, and the folks from Kondor Path.  The experience I had with their help exceeded my expectations.  They went out of their way to accommodate my desire to visit places the average tourist never sees.  I will be forever grateful to Senor Odon Perez.  His energy, his expertise, his humility, and his good cheer made my visit so much more enjoyable!  I hope our paths cross again some day Odon…until then, godspeed my friend!

"Su Tee Me" amigo!