Captivating Costa Rica, Part 2:

Costa Rica Introtour With Tropical Birding Tours

Prologue to Part 2…

This blog begins with me joining up with my group from Tropical Birding Tours after spending a couple of days in the San Jose area of Costa Rica on my own.  For details of that part of my trip, see Part 1 of my blog.  In short, I visited a volcano, an archaeological site, took a guided nature walk at the University of Costa Rica, visited three museums, and the Teatro Nacional.  Although I wasn’t really looking for birds, I met nine new birds during the two days on my own, bringing my life list total at the start of my guided tour to a total of 290 bird species.  I want to apologize for the length of, and detail contained in, this blog post.  This will probably be the only trip I ever take to Costa Rica, and I wanted to convey as much of my experiences during that trip as possible.  I sincerely hope you don’t find it tedious or boring!  Stay the course, and you will see lots of beautiful people, places, and things, I promise!

Introducing Our Cast For The Introtour…

At 6:30 p.m. on Saturday, February 4, 2023, our group met for dinner at Hotel Robledal.  Our guide, Sam Woods of Tropical Birding Tours, introduced himself first, then we went round the table.  Our group consisted of:  Jake and Kim, a couple from Princeton, New Jersey; Dave, from Chicago, Illinois; Patti from Philadelphia; Kelly, also from the Philadelphia area, and yours truly, from McQueeney, Texas.   After introductions, Sam explained how our typical day of birding would unfold, and briefly discussed the four different areas of Costa Rica that we would travel to, and focus on.  I felt an immediate kinship and affection for this group, and could tell that we would all get along just fine, which we did, over the course of the next eight days.  Sam also told us about our driver, Luis.  He explained that Luis was well known in the birding community, and, over the course of thirty years, had achieved almost legendary status as the best of the best when it came to drivers.  Sam was right!  Luis spotted many birds for us.  It was not uncommon for him to stop our bus and point out a bird, or a monkey, or something else of interest.  Luis knew EVERYBODY!  At each of the lodges and restaurants we stopped at, Luis would hold court, visiting with a steady stream of folks who wanted to talk to him.  We got some valuable information regarding desirable bird locations from Luis’s contacts and networking.  We were indeed lucky to have him as our driver, and our friend!  We adjourned from dinner with instructions to be packed and ready early the next morning.  Sam said we would spend about thirty minutes birding the grounds of Hotel Robledal, have breakfast, then load our luggage on the bus and head out to our first destination.  

Day One,Sunday, Feb 5, 2023:  A Visit to Donde Cope, Nectar & Pollen Reserve, and We Arrive at La Selva

We did a little bird watching before breakfast at the Hotel Robledal on the morning of the first full day of our tour.  It was a beautiful morning as the birds gradually woke up and entertained us.  I saw a number of old friends including the national bird of Costa Rica, the Clay-colored Thrush.  I also met two new birds:  a Spot-breasted Oriole and a couple of Red-billed Pigeons.  We had breakfast in the open air dining space, still on the lookout for birds in nearby gardens and feeders.  Luis showed up right on time and after introductions, we loaded our luggage and headed out.  

A Productive Visit to Donde Cope

After leaving Hotel Robledal and negotiating the traffic of San Jose, we climbed into the mountains above the Central Valley, and drove through Braulio Carillo National Park until we reached the Caribbean slope, and our first destination of the day, Donde Cope.  Donde Cope is the private residence of José “Cope” Perez, and is located in La Unión de Guápiles, Costa Rica.  Cope is an artist, photographer, and a passionate birder.  He has set up hummingbird feeders on one side of his house, and created a fantastic backyard garden and blind, complete with a natural pond, on the other side of his home.  There are both fruit and hummingbird feeders at the blind which attract a variety of birds.  We enjoyed a fantastic visit to Cope’s birding paradise, and, after birding the lot across from his home upon our arrival, began our visit by spending some time at his hummingbird feeders and his blind. 

After spending time at the blind and the hummingbird feeders at Cope’s home, we changed into rubber boots and headed to a nearby location where Senor Cope led us into the lush tropical rainforest.  We saw two pairs of owls, a hawk, a monkey, and two different kinds of bats.  What an adventure!

I really enjoyed meeting Cope and spending time with him at his home and in the nearby jungle habitat.  I mentioned that Cope is an artist.  Before we left I had the opportunity to buy a couple of his prints, which he graciously signed and dated.  I will always remember this humble artist and this day!

The morning we spent at Donde Cope was productive indeed.  Our guide Sam Woods reported seeing 34 different species on his eBird Report. I probably missed a few, but I think I was able to watch most of them that Sam reported.  Here are the new birds I met during our visit to Donde Copé:  White-necked Jacobin, Long-billed Hermit, Green-breasted Mango, Bicolored Hawk, Crested Owl, Spectacled Owl, Yellow-throated Toucan, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Olive-backed Euphonia, Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, and Red-legged Honeycreeper. 

We left Donde Cope and headed over to Restaurante El Yugo where we enjoyed their mind-boggling buffet.  A grilled chicken breast and a fresh avacado was just what I needed after a full morning of bird watching!

A Stop At A New Place:  Nectar & Pollen Reserve

After lunch it was on to our next stop, which was not far away.  Sam told us he had heard of a new place called Nectar & Pollen Reserve, and that some good birds were being seen there.  When we arrived the place was locked up but in short order Sam got in touch with the powers that be, and they came over and let us in.  It was fairly small, but had lots of flowers around the grounds and a blind area with nice perches and feeders.  

It was only our first full day, but by now I was used to seeing old friends like the Montezuma and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas.  The real treat for me was a good look at a Collared Aracari.  Dave saw the most birds of our group, reporting 25 species on eBird, while Kelly reported 24, and Sam reported 19.  Sam got a really nice photo of a Golden-hooded Tanager, but somehow I managed to miss it.  I ended up adding five new birds to my life list at Nectar & Pollen:  Collared Aracari, Palm Tanager, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, and a Green Hermit.

Our Home For The Next Two Nights:  La Selva Biological Research Station

After finishing up at Nectar & Pollen, we drove for about 45 minutes to reach our home for the next two nights, La Selva Biological Research Station  (“La Selva”).  I really enjoyed our time at this remarkable place!  Established in 1968, La Selva covers over six square miles, has almost 38 miles of trails (some paved, for bicycle riding scientists!), and can accommodate 180 guests per night.  La Selva has cabins, dorms, and private houses available to rent.  We stayed in a group of connected cabins a short drive away from the main Visitor Reception and Dining Hall.  Scientists from all over the world come to study the biodiversity of this area, and National Geographic frequently films here.  La Selva is home to 470 species of birds, and we enjoyed our time trying to see as many of them as we could!

When we arrived at La Selva, Sam wasted no time.  After checking us in and getting the keys to our cabins, we set to work meeting birds.  The amount of bird activity around the Dining Hall and Reception Area at La Selva was amazing.  When we went there for our meals, we always took our binoculars and cameras, because you never knew what you might see.  In the short time (about an hour and a half) that we birded late Sunday afternoon, Sam reported 28 Species observed on his eBird checklist.  I added ten new birds to my life list that afternoon, as follows:  Crested Guan; Broad-winged Hawk; Slaty-tailed Trogon; Black-coweled Oriole; Black-faced Grosbeak; Golden-hooded Tanager; Scarlet-thighed Dacnis; Blue Dacnis; Green Honeycreeper; Social Flycatcher; and Bananaquit. 

When we ran out of daylight, Luis drove us over to our cabins where we transferred our luggage to our rooms and freshened up before heading back to the Dining Hall for our first meal at La Selva.  Our first full day of birding was in the books! 

Day Two, Monday, Feb 6, 2023:  A Full Day Enjoying The Sights and Sounds of La Selva

Birding Before Breakfast at La Selva

We met promptly at 6:00 a.m. on the morning of Monday, February 6, 2023, and, after a short drive from our cabins, set out walking a muddy road in the early morning light, searching for birds.  We spent about and hour and twenty minutes and I was able to meet, and photograph five new birds:  Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Gray-capped Flycatcher, Cinnamon-bellied Saltator, Canebrake Wren, and White-crowned Parrot.  Sam Woods, our guide, saw, and reported 31 species on eBird, a number of which that I either flat out didn’t see, or was unable to photograph in the low light conditions.  But, as we headed over to the Dining Hall and breakfast, I was delighted to have seen some new birds on the very beginning of our day!

The Rest of the Morning With Octavio, a La Selva Guide…

After breakfast, Sam had arranged for us to spend the rest of the morning with one of the local La Selva guides.  Our guide was a very nice, and very enthusiastic fellow named Octavio.  We spent about half of our time with Octavio across the river in the area around the labs and researcher cabins.  The rest of our time with the local guide was spent exploring trails on the Visitor Reception side of the river.  By lunchtime I had met and added five more birds to my Life List.  Here are the new birds I saw that morning with Octavio:  Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Green McCaw, Great Curassow, Pale-billed Woodpecker, and Northern Barred-Woodcreeper.  

A Delightful Afternoon Sampling the Pleasures of La Selva

We enjoyed lunch with a Fasciated Antshrike (someone spotted it in a bush literally within spitting distance of our table!), before setting out once again on the trails of La Selva in search of the ornithological bounty that this beautiful place is known for.  We had a great afternoon, including seeing a sloth, and having a semi-close encounter with a fer-de-lance (well, the disposal crew!).  The highlight  of the afternoon for me was watching a very cooperative Laughing Falcon.  I love the larger raptors, and this one, while not close, was willing to sit for us and give us some very nice looks.  During the rest of the day I met ten new birds:  Fasciated Antshrike, Shining Honeycreeper, Rufous-winged Woodpecker, Black-throated Trogon, Laughing Falcon, Masked Tityra, Snowy Cotinga, Broad-billed Motmot, Gartered Trogon, and Black-mandibled Toucan.  I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of visiting La Selva, and I will be sad to leave in the morning!

Day Three, Tuesday, February 7, 2023:  We Head For The Talamanca Mountains and The Savegre Hotel (With a Stop At Miriam’s Cafe)

One Last Walk Around La Selva

We were up early for one last birding foray on the beautiful grounds of La Selva. We packed and loaded up the bus before we headed to breakfast at the Dining Hall.  After breakfast we spent several hours birding one last time at this unique place.  It was a picture perfect morning as we revisited the area across the river and explored some new trails in the process.  We birded until a little after noon and, as usual, saw a large number of birds.  Many were birds that I had met before (such as the beautiful Collared Aracari and a number of colorful Trogons), but I managed to add six birds to my life list, as follows:  Russet-naped Wood Rail, White-whiskered Puffbird, Spotted Antbird, Black-crowned Antshrike, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Boat-billed Flycatcher, and a Bat Falcon. 

I am very grateful that I got to experience La Selva.  If you find yourself in Costa Rica, I would highly recommend that you visit this wonderful place.  In addition to the birds I watched, I saw an interesting array of wildlife, including Howler Monkeys, Iguanas, Spectacled Caiman, and the tiny Strawberry Poison Frog.  Here are a few photos of the wildlife I experienced at La Selva.   

A Stop at Miriam’s Cafe

The remainder of our day was spent traveling from the Caribbean Lowlands north of San Jose to the Savegre Valley in the Talamanca mountains to the south of the Central Valley.  We broke up the drive with a stop at Miriam’s Cafe, which has a deck overlooking some very active and productive feeders with a beautiful mountain backdrop.  We stayed at Miriam’s for about and hour and watched a nice variety of birds.  I was able to add five new species to my life list:  Lesser Violetear, Talamanca Hummingbird, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Flame-colored Tanager, and Large-footed Finch.  

We Reach The Savegre Hotel, Our Home For the Next Two Nights

After our stop at Miriam’s, we continued on our journey into the Savegre Valley of the Talamanca Mountains.  It was dark by the time we reached our destination, the Savegre Hotel.  We unpacked, freshened up, then had a nice dinner at the main dining room of the hotel.  This hotel was probably the nicest we stayed at.  The food was great, the coffee was hot, and the grounds were full of beautiful birds. 

Day Four,Wednesday, Feb 8, 2023:  Our Search For The Resplendent Quetzal at Casa Monge and Several Hikes Near Hotel Savegre

A Quetzal at Casa Monge

We met at  5:45 a.m. on the morning of Wednesday, February 8, 2023, and headed out to hopefully locate and watch a Resplendent Quetzal, which many consider to be the crown jewel of Central American birds.  We drove over to Casa Monge, a small lodge that our tour guide wanted to check out.  He had heard that the owners had constructed a perch near an avocado tree and that Quetzals visited the perch quite regularly.  After we arrived at the site, we climbed a steep hill and joined other birders who were waiting for a Quetzal to make an appearance.

Our small crowd of birders was tense as we waited.  After a while, we spotted a couple of Black Guan, who soon departed.  After what seemed like a long wait, a Resplendent Quetzal could be seen in dense foliage on the hillside opposite from the hill we were standing on.  While it was difficult to get an clear view, it was obvious this was a very colorful and beautiful bird.  After a short while, the first bird we saw disappeared deep into the foliage.  It was not long before a Quetzal flew to the open perch and blessed our assembled crowd with some excellent views.  It was a scene I shall not soon forget!

After watching the Resplendent  Quetzals, we headed back down the hill toward our bus.  On the way, we saw a number of birds, including two that were new to me:  a Silver-throated Tanager and a Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher.  We returned to the Savegre Hotel for breakfast.  While the group ate, I walked around the beautiful grounds of the hotel and took a few photos since it was my first chance to look around in the light of day. 

A Jeep Ride and Hike Up The Mountain

After breakfast we loaded up in a jeep and drove to the end of the 4X4 road and the trailheads for  the Los Pioneros, Los Robles, and La Quebrada trails.  I think we ended up hiking a portion of all three, and went high up toward the top of the mountain.  It was quite lush under the canopy along the sometimes steep trail, and we saw lots of birds, although you had to look pretty hard for some of them!  I was delighted to meet seven new birds on the hike, although, as usual, my photos were not the best.  Here are the new birds I met and photographed:  Ochraceous Pewee (a very rare bird!), Sulfur-winged Parakeet, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Spotted Wood-Quail, Yellow-winged Vireo, Northern Emerald Toucanet, and Tufted Flycatcher.    

Lunch With A Striped-tail Hummingbird at Sueños del Bosque and Birding Along the Scenic Savegre River

After our  productive birding up on the mountain and another exciting jeep ride back down, we headed over to Sueños del Bosque Lodge for lunch and then over to hike and bird along the Savegre River.  While at lunch we noticed a very beautiful and very cooperative Stripe-tailed Hummingbird perched atop a nearby bush.   I am happy to report that, thanks to good light and close proximity, I got an excellent (for me, anyway) photograph of the Hummer.  The hike along the river after lunch was not that productive, but it was very scenic!  I did, however, meet a new bird, the Yellow-thighed Brushfinch. 

We Finish Up A Very Busy Day by Birding The Grounds of The Paraiso Quetzal Lodge

After our hike along the Savegre River, we loaded up our bus and headed over to bird the beautiful grounds of the Paraiso Quetzal Lodge.  This lodge sits on top of a steep hill with acres of scenic gardens and trails below.  It also has two very busy hummingbird stations.  I spent most of my time at the lower hummingbird station, which overlooked a long trough feeder that attracted a lot of birds in addition to the hummingbirds that were buzzing around the covered area at the station.  During my walk down to the lower hummingbird station, I met a Slaty Flowerpiercer cavorting in a hedge near the path I was on.  My spirits were immediate uplifted–  another new bird!  In my opinion, there was no doubt who the stars of the Paraiso show were– a charm of Fiery-Throated Hummingbirds.  I saw them at both stations, but they were especially plentiful at the upper station.  They were magnificent!  While at the lower station I saw plenty of old friends, but made one new one, a Chestnut-capped Brushfinch.  What a colorful bird!  And, as I was carefully going over my photos from Paraiso Lodge, a hummingbird with bright buffy underparts and a white line behind the eye caught my attention.  A little research showed it was a female Purple-throated Mountain Gem, which was also a new bird for me.  I also found a photo of a male as well.  I really enjoyed my relaxing time at Paraiso Lodge and meeting four new birds!  We stayed at Parairso until the light gave out then headed back to the luxury and good food at Hotel Savegre.  A full and satisfying day with a total of 17 new birds to add to my life list.   

Day Five, Thursday, Feb 9, 2023:  We Head For The Pacific Lowlands After A High Altitude Visit to Cerro de la Muerte

As was our custom, we began the day with a 6:00 a.m. birding walk along a trail near the river a short distance from Hotel Savegre.  We saw some of the usual suspects, but nothing new.  We returned to the hotel, packed our bags and had breakfast.  The overall dining experience at Hotel Savegre was superb, but the breakfast spread was exceptional!  The early part of this day was not a total waste when it came to meeting new birds, because I encountered a Tropical Mockingbird on the hotel grounds on the way to breakfast.   

A Number of Stops On the Way Up to Cerro del Muerte Result In a Meeting With a Costa Rican Pygmy Owl and a Volcano Junco

After breakfast we headed up to Cerro Del Muerte for a successful search for the Volcano Junco.  We made a number of stops along the way, and saw a fair number of birds in the process.  I met seven new birds (not including the Junco)–  a Collared Redstart, a Spangle-cheeked Tanager, a Mountain Thrush, a Scintillant Hummingbird, a Black-capped Flycatcher, a Sooty-capped Chlorospingus, and a beautiful little Costa Rican Pygmy Owl.  A clear crisp morning in the mountains and an eclectic array of birds–  who could ask for anything more?  We topped off our morning with a birding lunch at a typical Costa Rican country eatery, La Georgina Cafe. 

We Head to the Lowlands of The Pacific Coast and Hotel Villa Lapas With an Enjoyable and Productive Stop in San Isidro

After our lunch at La Georgina we headed west for our drive along the Pacific Coast to Hotel Villa Lapas, located in the Carara Region of Costa Rica.  Along the way we stopped at San Isidro for some birding right in the town.  We started out near the police station, then walked down the road where there was a large school and lots of curious children heading out after their school day.  An enjoyable bit of  Costa Rican culture!  The highlight of this stop, for me, was meeting two new birds–  a Turquoise Cotinga and a Roadside Hawk.  We also got good looks at a number of birds I had met before, including a Tropical Mockingbird and a Broad-winged Hawk.  We then finished our long drive to, and up, the Pacific Coast.  The sun was setting as we passed through the festive beach town of Jaco and provided us with some beautiful views.  It was after dark when we pulled into Hotel Villa Lapas, our home for the next two nights.  It was dinner and a comfortable bed to cap off this enjoyable day in Costa Rica.  

Day Six Friday, Feb 10, 2023:  Morning Birding at Villa Lapas, A Visit to Carara National Park,  and a Boat Cruise on The Rio Grande Tárcoles

We started our day at 6:oo a.m. by walking the grounds of our new hotel (Villa Lapas) looking for birds.  Although not as elegant as Hotel Savegre, nor as large as La Selva, the grounds were very nice, with lots of opportunities to see birds.  On our one hour walk before breakfast I met two new birds:  a Black-headed Trogon and a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron.  

A Relaxing Morning at Parque Nacional Carara

After breakfast at Villa Lapas, we drove the short distance to Carara National Park where we spent the morning hiking trails in search of birds.  I really liked this park.  The trails were very nice, and there was an abundance of informational signage about birds, habitat, and other items of interest.  There were people around, but it was not in any way crowded.  To see a separate gallery of photos of this very nice national park, look here.  We encountered a fair number of birds.  Five of them were new to me and I added them to my life list, as follows:  Collared Forest Falcon, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Great Tinamou, Baird’s Trogon, and a Gray-chested Dove. 

A number of the larger venues we visited, like Carara National Park, had local guides available (usually standing out by the front gate).  When we encountered them on the trail, the local guides were usually very helpful and didn’t mind passing on information about bird locations.  It was a local guide that put us on to the Collared Forest-Falcon, which was high up near the top of the canopy and very difficult to see unless you knew where to look.  According to this guide, the Falcon had stolen a nearby nest from a McCaw.  

Birding by Boat on the Tárcoles River

After lunch at Villa Lapas we headed toward the Tárcoles River and our scheduled boat tour, which would take up much of our afternoon.  On the way over to the docks of Jungle Crocodile Safari, we stopped off to do some birding along a road by a mangrove forest/swamp.  We spent about an hour and it was very productive.  I saw some old friends, like a beautiful Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl.  I also met three new birds:  a Panama Flycatcher, a Common Black Hawk,  and a magnificent Scarlet Macaw that was feeding in a tree.

We made it to the Jungle Crocodile Safari dock a few minutes after 3:00 p.m. and spent the next three hours on the water.  We were able to experience a number of different habitats adjacent to the water-  open beaches and grassland, dense mangrove areas, and some tall trees.  There was no shortage of birds and I thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon.  We had ample room on the boat to move around and the ability to move from side to side in order to try to get the best looks.  As usual, I saw quite a few birds that were already on my life list.  But, I   am happy to report that I met ten new birds during this outing, as follows:  Mangrove Swallow, Collared Plover, Amazon Kingfisher, Ringed Kingfisher, Double-striped Thick-knee, Muscovy Duck (wild), Yellow-headed Caracara, Southern Lapwing, Northern Jacuna, and Tourquoise-browed Motmot.  

Day Seven, Saturday, Feb 11, 2023:  One Last Walk at Villa Lapas and at Carara N.P., Then We Search For a Pacific Pygmy Owl and a Cuckoo While Heading to The Pacific Slope and Monteverde

We began this day with one last walk around the grounds of Villa Lapas.  We saw a number of birds, but none were new species for me.  We had hoped to see a flock of Aracaris that are often reported to be seen in this area, but we saw neither hide nor hair of them, so we headed to the dining room and had a nice breakfast.  

After breakfast we headed over to Carara National Park to explore a different area of the park and walk the Laguna Meandrica Trail.  We saw a fair number of birds during our walk, but only one was new to me– a Gray-headed Tanager.   We also saw a Northern Ghost Bat near the end of our walk.  

After saying goodbye to Carara National Park, we stopped back by Hotel Villa Lapas for lunch.  We loaded up our bus and headed for the lower Pacific Slope and eventually the Monteverde region and the cloud forests that make it one of the most visited areas of Costa Rica.  Our final destination was Cala Lodge, where we would be spending the next two nights.  On the way we made a number of stops to look for birds.  Some stops were sucessful, and some were not.  Our search for a Striped Cuckoo was for naught, but we had a fun time trying!  One highlight of the afternoon was a stop to watch a Pacific Screech-Owl, who was perfectly content to sit in his nest and let us admire him to our heart’s content.  This was a new bird for me, as was a Stripe-headed Sparrow and the small group of Groove-billed Ani that we saw later that afternoon.  Another highlight of our afternoon was watching a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl and the mixed flock that was relentless harassing him!  It was dark by the time we reached Cala Lodge and checked in for the night.  We freshened up a bit and headed a short distance into town and a great dinner at Restaurante Thomas & Thiago.  

Day Eight, Sunday, Feb 12, 2023:   Exploring Cala Lodge, Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena, Monteverde Hummingbird Gallery, and Bajo del Tigre Reserve

We were at it bright and early on Sunday Morning, February 12, 2023, as we birded the lush grounds at Cala Lodge.  The grounds at Cala Lodge are not particulary large, but it has some nice trails and there is a wonderful deck outside of the dining room that overlooks fruit laden feeders.  Each morning we were there, the Lesson’s Motmots, Emerald Toucanettes, and Brown Jays put on quite a show!   While I had met the Toucanette earlier on our trip, the Lesson’s Motmot and Brown Jay were both new birds for me, and I was delighted to be able to add them to my life list.  

After finishing our bird watching and breakfast at Cala Lodge, we loaded up and headed over to wander the trails at Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena.  It was foggy and overcast when we arrived, and, shortly after we hit the trails, it began to rain.  We spent several hours slogging through the rain and mud.  I wish I could say I enjoyed it, but that would be stretching the truth!  We saw very few birds, and those that we did I was unable to photograph due to the very low light and rain.  Would enjoy visiting this place on a better day however!

After several hours of slogging our way around several of the trails at Santa Elena, we headed to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve.  We stopped off for lunch at a location I can’t quite remember.  I am sure it was good, however!  When we got to the Monteverde Preserve, it was very, very crowded and Sam suggested we spend a little time at the Hummingbird Gallery, then head to somewhere a little less crowded and a little less touristy.  The time we spent at the Hummingbird Gallery was a lot of fun, and productive.  I met three new birds:  a Common Chlorospingus, a Green-crowned Brilliant, and a Violet Sabrewing.  

After watching the hummingbirds for about an hour, we headed to the different venue that he thought would be less crowded.  So we loaded up and drove to the Bajo del Tigre Reserve, home to Bosque Eterno De Los Niños (the Children’s Eternal Rainforest).  It was a pleasant change, as we were literally the only people there.  While there was staff at the main office, we saw no other visitors on the trails.  We walked several of the trails, hoping to see some Manakins.  We didn’t find any Manakins, but got some good looks at a Red-crowned Tanager, a Golden-crowned Warbler, and a couple of Collared Trogons.  Unfortunately I was unable to get any photos under the canopy and late afternoon light.  But we had a nice walk to end our day.  

During our last full day of birding, I recorded five new species to add to my life list.  It was a long day, beginning with our slog in the rain, and ending with a strenuous hike out of Bajo Del Tigre.   I was more than ready for dinner and my bed at the friendly confines of Cala Lodge.  

Day Nine, Monday, Feb 13, 2023:  We Say Goodbye to Cala Lodge, and Enjoy a Robust Hike at Curi-Cancha Reserve Before Returning to San Jose and Our Last Night Together at Hotel Robledal

The last full day of our tour was laid back and enjoyable.  We awoke at Cala Lodge with instructions to pack up before breakfast.  We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, and were entertained one last time by the Motmots, Toucanettes, and assorted other colorful actors that make Cala Lodge such a special place.  We reluctantly said goodbye, and headed to Curi-Cancha Reserve for one last magical morning in a Costa Rican cloud forest.   When we arrived at Curi-Cancha, it looked a bit like Grand Central Station.  But once we were out on the trails it thinned out and we enjoyed a leisurely walk up into the cloud forest.  In short order we saw a Gray-throated Leaftosser, which was a new bird for me.  We also had an exciting encounter with a Side-striped Palm Pit Viper, which was just a couple of feet off the trail.  

We took  our time and wound our way up the mountain.  As we headed back down, we came to an open area and meadow known as Area de Descano, or rest area.  This was a magical place, filled with birds and other creatures.  We saw a number of birds, three of which were new to me:  A Yellow-faced Grassquit, a Golden-browed Chlorophonia, and a Coppery-headed Emerald (hummingbird).  We also met and watched a Green Spiny Lizard, a White-nosed Coati, and a small group of Collared Peccary.  What a menagerie we experienced in this magical meadow!

Once we had our fill of Cari-Cancha, it was time to head back to San Jose for our last night together.  Our drive was interrupted when Luis spotted a group of Mantled Howler Monkeys near the road, and we stopped to say hello.  

We arrived safely at Hotel Robledal, and said our goodbyes to Luis, our driver.  I had written him a note of thanks and enclosed a Benjamin Franklin.  We had time to check in, get freshened up, and meet for one last dinner together.  As was our custom, we went over our checklists for the day and discussed the birds and other creatures that we saw.  Since this was our last night together, we also discussed our favorite birds that we experienced during the trip.  It was time to say our final goodbyes, and express our heartfelt gratitude to our tour leader Sam, for all his hard work and good cheer.  I don’t know if I will ever run across any of these fine folks again, but, if I did, it would be a good thing!

My Last Day In Costa Rica, Tuesday, Feb 14, 2023:  A Visit to Two Coffee Farms and the Alajuela Cathedral Before Hopping a Plane Home

Tuesday February 14, 2023 was a gorgeous day in the Central Valley of Costa Rica.  Several days ago I had contacted my friend Anthony on WhatsApp and arranged for him to pick me up at 8:00 a.m. at Hotel Robledal.  Since my flight did not leave until the afternoon, I decided to soak up a little more culture and visit a coffee farm before I went to the airport.  So I packed up, got my morning coffee, and was waiting for Anthony out at the front gate at the appointed time.  

I had arranged with Anthony to take me to a coffee farm before dropping me off at the airport.  I had enquired at the hotel about the best farm to visit and the manager recommended the Doka Estate Tour, located outside of Alajuela, a suburb of San Jose, and not far from the airport.  Anthony agreed that the Doka Coffee Plantation provided the best tour, so we headed that way.  As we drove, I learned that Alajuela was Anthony’s home town.  I also learned that he had never taken the Doka tour, despite having driven many tourists to the attraction.  So rather than just have him wait for me, I invited him to join me on the tour.  We had a great time on the tour of the Doka Plantation, and we learned about coffee– from the plant to the finished product.  Our tour guide was a young man named Reynaldo.  He was very knowledgeable and passionate about coffee and took us through all of the stations at the farm, from the fields of coffee plants to the store that sells the finished product.  We learned that the pickers earn $2.00 per day plus housing and are expected to pick 8 to 10 baskets per day.  Each basket holds about 28 pounds of coffee plant fruit, which in turn produces pounds of coffee beans.  I really enjoyed our time touring Doka, and would highly recommend a visit! 

Since we took the first tour available at Doka, we had plenty of time left before we needed to head for they airport.  Anthony suggested that we drive over to Hacienda Alsacia, the Starbucks Coffee Farm.   He said it was a scenic place, higher up on the slopes of Poás Volcano, and that I might enjoy seeing it.  He was right!   It was a beautiful place, but had a very “touristy” feel.  If you want a good tour, go to Doka.  If you want coffee or a sandwich with a great view, go to Starbucks!

After Anthony had a bite of lunch, we headed toward the airport so I could catch my flight.  Anthony knew of my interest in historic buildings, so he suggested a quick stop at the Alajuela Cathedral, since we still had plenty of time.  I enjoyed seeing this beautiful and sacred structure.  After a busy and sometimes hectic pace during my time in Costa Rica, I welcomed the opportunity to relax, say a few prayers, and meditate on the many blessings in my life .  The exquisite murals that adorn the vaulted promenade are spectacular, as is the altar area, which is surrounded by marble pillars.  I am grateful that Anthony suggested we make this one final stop.  Directly in front of the Cathedral is a park with huge Mango trees.  Anthony said these trees are why Alajuela is known as the “City of Mangoes”.  

After our stop at the Alajuela Cathedral, Anthony and I traveled the short distance to the Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO).  Upon our arrival, Anthony hooked me up with a porter and instructed him to take good care of me, which he did.  The airport is pleasantly modern and quite nice.  I had time to visit one of the gift shops to load up with goodies for my grandson Little J.D., and dispose of my remaining colones, before boarding my flight home.   

Epilogue

As always, I am grateful that my wife Dorothy is supportive of my late-in-life wanderlust.  I am also most grateful for the good health that I enjoy– without my health, travels like this would not be possible.  This was a very good trip for this old man.  The people were beautiful, the landscapes magnificent, and the birds, extraordinary.  Until next time Costa Rica, “Pura Vida” and “Acachete”!