At the large room block down canyon from the walled main ruin at Moon House.

My Maiden Voyage Into Archaeology

Part 1:  Chaco, Moonhouse, House on Fire & More

Prologue…

In reality, it all began in April, 2012, as my grandson Holt and I sat on top of Old Baldy in Garner State Park.  It was at that moment that I became interested in hiking and, eventually, archaeology (see my blog about that moment here).  

My grandson Holt Lang, on top of Old Baldy, April, 2012.

When I got home from that trip with Holt, I set about to learn how to hike.  I signed up for a hiking/backpacking course at REI in San Antonio.  When I attended the course, I met Phil Starr, the instructor who helped me learn the basics.  After the course I went on several hikes with Phil, and one day while hiking with him at Eisenhauer Park in San Antonio, he mentioned having hiked in Grand Gulch.  When I googled Grand Gulch, I was blown away, and vowed that someday I would hike there too.  I didn’t make much progress toward that goal during the rest of 2012.  I was busy being a grandparent and husband !  But as 2013 rolled around, I began to research the possibility of hiking in Grand Gulch and soon realized I needed a lot more experience before I could undertake a hike such as that.  So, I talked Dorothy into taking a trip with me to Utah.  This trip centered around our stay at the Red Mountain Resort outside of St. George, Utah.  Red Mountain had daily early morning hikes, which I thoroughly enjoyed.  (I found Red Mountain by literally googling “best resort for hiking”!)  Toward the end of my stay at the resort I successfully hiked/climbed Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park– I was becoming more confident in my abilities as a hiker!

On a morning hike into Snow Canyon with the fine folks from Red Mountain Resort. July 4, 2013.
I was one proud old man after successfully hiking/climbing to the top of Angel's Landing in Zion. July 8, 2013.
Dorothy enjoyed time by the pool at Red Mountain Resort while I was out learning to hike.

It was about this time that I booked my trip (which is the main subject of this blog) with Vaughn Hadenfeldt.  I honestly don’t remember how I discovered Vaughn, but I am so glad that I did.  I do know that in his 2006 book about Comb Ridge entitled Sandstone Spine, David Roberts called Vaughn the best guide he had ever known.  Anyway, I booked the trip for late October, 2013, and continued to try to stay in shape and refine my backpacking skills. 

A trial run at Lost Maples State park. I hiked to the most remote campsite in the park and camped for a couple of nights. October 6, 2013, just a few weeks before my trip with Vaughn.

Sorry about the length of this prologue, it kind of got out of hand! But that brings us to my late October trip to Utah and my backpack with Vaughn Hadenfeldt into Slickhorn Canyon– I hope you enjoy!

As I Head To Utah, A Stop at Downtown Chaco…

 

I headed out on Sunday, October 20, 2013 and made it to the Chaco Culture National Historical Park the next day.  I am not sure what possessed me to visit this place, but I am so glad I did.  The experience of visiting the main sites in the park (affectionately called “Downtown Chaco”) helped fuel my soon to be burning desire to learn more about Southwest archaeology. 

Liz and David Gerth (my daughter and son-in-law) wished me well as I left on my trip.
If you have never driven the road into Chaco Canyon, it is an experience you will never forget-- 23.4 miles of washboard that will rattle your bones!
I finally made it to the park entrance!

As I mentioned above, I spent my day in Chaco visiting the main sites and making the hike up to the Pueblo Bonito Overlook and Pueblo Alto.  I didn’t look for any rock art (as I discovered later, there are some wonderful petroglyphs and pictographs in Chaco Canyon)– I hadn’t been bitten by that bug yet!

I ended up hiking the entire Pueblo Alto Loop Trail. The views were magnificent on this sunny, clear day. October 21, 2013.
Here I am on the ancient trail that takes you to the top of the mesa through a crack in the rock. Behind me you see the great-house called Kin Kletso.
About half way up the trail to top of the mesa you see these bedrock features. They were the first ones I ever saw!
On top of the overlook there are a couple of shallow, perfectly round bedrock features. I assume they are ceremonial in nature, since they overlook Pueblo Bonito, the largest of the great-houses.
Part of Pueblo Bonito, as seen from the overlook.
The Jackson Staircase is a pair of Ancestral Puebloan steps cut into the cliff of Chaco Canyon, New Mexico. Located north of Chetro Ketl and east of Pueblo Alto, the stairs gave Chacoans access to the Great North Road. The feature is named after William Henry Jackson, who discovered the stairs in 1877.
Lunch time while on the trail at Chaco Canyon.
This photo illustrates two of the features that the great-houses at Chaco are known for: t-shaped doors and thick walls (filled with rubble) with thinner veneers of facing stone.

From Chaco Canyon I headed on to Bluff, Utah and checked into the Recapture Lodge.  I had a couple of days before I was to meet up with Vaughn Hadenfelt, so I spent those two days seeing some sites in the Bluff area (To see a map of Cedar Mesa with the sites I visited marked, look here.)  Join me as I visit these sites…

A Visit To Moon House Ruins Via The Moki Dugway…

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 I made my way to Moon House Ruins, located in McLoyd Canyon on Cedar Mesa.  To get there from Bluff, I first had to negotiate the stunning Moki Dugway…

I actually took this picture from the top of the Dugway as I returned to Bluff from my visit to Moon House.
The upper part of the MoKi Dugway, which, for this flat-lander was a white knuckler!

After braving the Moki Dugway and finding myself on top of Cedar Mesa, I drove to Snow Flat Road and left pavement.  This was literally my first time to negotiate a true 4WD road and I found it quite exhilarating.  The drive on Snow Flat Road to the turnoff to the Moon House trailhead is 8.1 miles and there are several slick rock sections with ledges to negotiate.  BLM advises that these are not negotiable in a passenger car and I certainly believe them.

Yes, Snow Flat Road on the way to the Moon House Trailhead IS a 4WD road!
I enjoyed negotiating this road, and felt a real sense of accomplishment that I made it out there and back.

The Moon House Trailhead is 1.2 miles from Snow Flat Road.  From the trailhead it is a fairly short hike to the rim of McLoyd Canyon where you can see the Moon House Ruins across the canyon high up on the other side.  To reach the ruins you have to down climb to the bottom of the canyon, cross the middle, then climb back up to the ruins.  There is a point about halfway down that requires the assistance of a rope, which added a little excitement to the down climb. 

The view of the main structure outer wall from the rim across the canyon, where I began my down climb.
The part of the down climb that requires the use of a rope. I lowered my pack first, then rapelled down myself.

Simply put, Moon House is the largest, most unique, and most spectacular ruin on Cedar Mesa.  It contains a total of 49 rooms spread over almost one quarter of mile on a shelve high up on the canyon wall.  One of the most unique aspects of the ruin is the wall that protects the main structures at the site.  There is only one  entry way  to access the area behind the wall and, amazingly, you are still permitted to climb through the small doorway to explore the main structures of the ruin.  You cannot enter the rooms behind the wall but you (with the aid of a flashlight) can look inside the rooms and see the paintings that give the site its name.  The BLM has a metal box at the site with a register and some printed information.  To see the information contained in the printed material at the site, look here.  I spent several hours exploring the entire site and it was a wonderful day!  Here are a few photos from my visit to Moon House. 

As you get about half way up the far canyon wall you begin to be able to see the ruins. From the canyon bottom, none of the ruins are visible. Note the extremely large hoodoo like rock formation on the left-- a special place indeed!
In this photo you can see the small doorway that allows entry into the area behind the defensive wall. You can also see the small holes that allow observation of all areas in front of and to the sides of the main structures.
The area behind the defensive wall is surprisingly large.
Yours truly, "behind the wall" at Moon House.
Glad I brought a flashlight...can you see the moon?
Another shot of the inside of one of the rooms and the painting that adorns the walls.
This nice cluster of ruins is just downstream from the main walled area. Note the "horse-collar" type doors on two of the structures.
An impressive block of rooms/structures at the farthest down-canyon part of the site.
I took this photo standing right in front of the main structure and looking down into the canyon- what a commanding view!

If you ever find yourself in the Cedar Mesa area, and have the proper vehicle and  the required hiking skills, I would highly recommend a visit to the Moon House Ruins.  When I visited, no permit was required, but now all visitors must obtain a permit at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station (about four miles south on Highway 261 from where it intersects with Highway 95).  I would avoid weekends and holidays because the number of permits issued each day is limited.  

Meeting a Wolfman…

I finished up at Moon House and headed back to Bluff and the Recapture Lodge.  As I was driving, I realized there was plenty of time to try and locate the Wolfman Panel in Butler Wash, which was on my way.  The turnoff to Butler Wash Road is just after you pass through the cut through Comb Ridge on Highway 163.

View of Highway 163 heading east through Comb Ridge on the way to Bluff, Utah.

After turning left on Butler Wash Road from Highway 163, I traveled a short distance to the Wolfman Trailhead.  From the trailhead you hike to the rim of Butler Wash and look for an old cattle trail which takes you down to the site.  As you descend the cattle trail you can look across Butler Wash where there are some ruins at the base of the cliff on the other side. 

View of ruins across Butler Wash, as seem from the trail to the Wolfman Panel.

In short order I found myself at the magnificent Wolfman Panel.  I think this panel is iconic for several reasons:  the patina is just right, not too dark, not too light; the elements are so well executed, and the spacing is perfect (ie not too crowded).  Take a look for yourself!  (By the way, to look a more complete gallery of photos from Wolfman, look here.)

The Wolfman Panel in Butler Wash. See what I mean about the patina, execution, and spacing?
To the left of the main panel above.
Are these little figures fighting, or loving? The other two elements in this photo are perfectly executed.
One final pick of a few of the less impressive elements at the site.

After spending time with my new friend the Wolfman, I decided to stop by the petroglyph panel that is located on the west side of the Sand Island Recreation Area.  (I discovered on a later trip that there are many more panels at Sand Island on a trail that goes up river.) The light was fading so I took only one picture and headed to Bluff to find some supper.  

The panel on the east side of the Sand Island Recreation Area, on the San Juan River near Bluff.
I ate supper at the Twin Rocks Trading Post, where the early evening light graced the cliffside and the Navajo Twins.
For dessert, I had an extra large helping of Utah Fall Sunset Supreme!

A Visit to House on Fire and the South Fork of Mule Canyon…

I woke up on Wednesday morning, October 23, 2013, happy as a tick.  I was going to be meeting Vaughn Hadenfeldt late that afternoon to go over logistics for our backpacking trip into Slickhorn Canyon the next day.  How to spend the day?  I decided to visit what is one of the most photographed ruins in Cedar Mesa–  House on Fire.  This iconic site is located about a mile into the South Fork of Mule Canyon and, if you are there in the right light (usually between 10 and 11 a.m.) the ceiling of the overhang that protects the ruins looks like it is on fire.  I found the site with no problem and enjoyed taking photos and relaxing. For more photos of House on Fire, see this gallery. 

Yours truly at House on Fire.
I think this shot provides a little more of the flame effect.

I read somewhere that there is some rock art on a boulder located in front of House on Fire, down nearer the bottom of the canyon (which is not very far).  I have never seen it, but then I have never looked for it.  If you find it, please send me a pic!  After spending time at the House on Fire Ruin, I continued to hike up the South fork of Mule Canyon for about another mile and a half.  I came across an unnamed ruin and one that is called The Wall Ruin.  Like Moon House, the Wall Ruin has a defensive wall in front of part of the site.  I tried and tried to climb up to the Wall Ruin but this old fat boy was unable to do it.  If you visit the Wall Ruin and are able to climb up, let me know what you find, ok?  Here are a few photos from the rest of my hike in the South fork of Mule Canyon. 

This unnamed ruin is about three fourths of a mile up canyon from House on Fire.
Yours truly at the unnamed ruin in the South Fork of Mule Canyon, October 23, 2013.
The Wall Ruin in the South Fork of Mule Canyon, as seen from the approach from the canyon bottom.
The Wall Ruin occupies two shallow caves side by side. I sure wish I could have climbed up to take a closer look!
In this shot you can clearly see the defensive wall in the right hand portion of the site. Wouldn't you like to see what is behind that wall?!

A Stop At Fish Mouth Cave To Finish the Day…

From the South Fork of Moon Canyon, I drove over to the north end of Butler Wash Road and made my way to the trailhead for Fish Mouth Cave.  I am not sure why I picked this site from the many sites along the Butler Wash side of Comb Ridge, but I spent a few hours exploring the area.  Not real far from the trailhead there is a small ruin down low.  From there I climbed up to a small cave that sits to the right of Fish Mouth, then on up to the main cave.  Nothing spectacular at these sites, but an interesting hike with some great views!

From near the trailhead, vibrant Fall colors frame Fish Mouth Cave, which sits high up on Comb Ridge.
Part of the ruins on the trail to Fish Mouth Cave.
This masonry work was still in impressive condition.
The small cave to the right of Fish Mouth Cave. After hiking up, I found a few petroglyphs on the floor of the cave. You can see the much larger Fish Mouth Cave to the left in the background.
One of several petroglyphs on the floor of the small cave that is to the right of Fish Mouth Cave.
More petroglyphs from the small cave near Fish Mouth.
As you get close, you realize just how big Fish Mouth Cave is.
The view, looking out from inside Fish Mouth Cave. What a magnificent view from near the top of Comb Ridge!
Hand prints in Fish Mouth Cave. My friend Vaughn Hadenfeldt does not believe they are authentic.
A grinding slick with corn cobb in Fish Mouth Cave, October 23, 2013.

You Have Come To The End Of Part One….


After exploring Fish Mouth Cave, I headed back in to Bluff.  I stopped at the Recapture Inn and cleaned up a little then went to the Twin Rocks Trading Post for an early dinner.  From there, I went to the offices of Far Out Expeditions, to meet with Vaughn Hadenfeldt.  That is where part two of this blog begins.