Going With The Flow —  Spring 2022 Rock Art Trip  (Part 1)

Prologue…

For quite some time I have entertained the notion that someday I would take a raft trip down the San Juan River and see some of the rock art and archaeology along that corridor, including sites south of the river on Navajo Reservation land.  Although I had been to the Bluff Area many times, I just never got around to looking into a raft trip.  That changed in early 2022 when I started poking around on the internet trying to figure out the best outfit to take an archaeology based trip with on the San Juan River.  As I recall, I googled San Juan River Raft Trip and petroglyphs and up popped the website of Tsé Kooh Outfitters, and the specifics on their “Water and Rocks” trip scheduled for late April of 2022.  When I read “Join Tsé Kooh Outfitters and recognized archeologist, rock art specialist and author Carol Patterson…” it looked to me like this is just the trip that I had been looking for.  Of course, I knew Carol Patterson by reputation and had read some of her work, so I was certainly excited about the possibility of going on this trip.  I contacted Cody Little, owner of Tsé Kooh and in short order signed up for the trip.  Cody indicated that in addition to Carol Patterson there would be other archaeologists on the trip and that some of them were going to be doing some research into the acoustical characteristics and anomalies of some of the sites that we would be visiting.  He also stated that he had permits to hike up Chinle Wash on the Navajo Reservation and I found that prospect quite intriguing. 

With the Tsé Kooh rafting trip set as the crown jewel of the trip, I began to fill in the details of the time I would be spending on the way up and back to the Four Corners/Bluff area.  There were a number of sites that I wanted to visit along the way so I began planning in earnest.  In short order, I had the trip pretty much planned and reservations and arrangements in place.  What follows is my account of this trip.  I have divided my blog into four parts, as follows:  1) Getting There; 2) A Few Days in Bluff; 3) Water and Rocks Rafting Trip; and 4) The Trip Home.  I hope you get a sense of the many wonderful people and places I experienced on this trip through my words and photographs.  So, without further fanfare, here we go!

Part 1 — Getting There

Easter Sunday, April 17, 2022 —  Birding at South Llano River State Park

This trip officially began on Easter Sunday, April 17, 2022.  I attended church that morning with Dorothy at First Methodist in New Braunfels and hit the road right after the service.  I knew that I was going to be missing most of the migratory songbird Spring season, so I decided to make a stop at South Llano River State Park (SLRSP) in Junction to see if I could meet any new birds.  I arrived at the park just after noon and checked in at the Visitor’s Center.  When I asked if any good birds were being seen, one of the park rangers said that she had seen a Golden-cheeked Warbler on a trail near the center on the prior Thursday.  I didn’t really want to take the time to hike the trail she mentioned, so I decided to head over to the Agarita Blind.  I was there for just under an hour, and, much to my amazement I watched and photographed two life birds:  a Golden-cheeked Warbler and a Spotted Towhee.  What an amazing start to my trip! 

I left the park just before 1:00 p.m. and stopped at Lum’s BBQ in Junction and picked up a little brisket for my lunch.  I then hit the road in earnest and traveled 320 miles along IH-10 to Van Horn, Texas where I spent the night. 

Monday, April 18, 2022 —  Alamo West, Desert Oak BBQ, and China Draw

I left Van Horn at 6:00 a.m. the next morning and was turning north toward Alamo Dam out of Fort Hancock while it was still dark.  By the time I parked at the east end of the dam the sun was up and I was raring to go hiking.  My goal was to find “The Story Teller” Panel, which, as I understood it, was located behind the east end of the large earthen dam.  On a previous trip I had explored the area in front of the west end of the dam (which included a large number of petroglyphs and pictographs) but ran out of time to look for “The Story Teller” Panel.  I spent the next several hours traversing some pretty tough terrain (no trails here!) without finding a single petroglyph, much less “The Story Teller”.  Eventually I hit a fence and had to turn back. 

I must admit, I was a tad discouraged that I had spent several hours and a lot of energy with nothing to show for it, but all was not lost.  My friend Matt R. had asked me about a location west of Alamo Dam that was listed as a petroglyph site on, of all places, Google Maps.  I had plotted a course to this location and found it without much trouble, and, sure enough, it was a pretty nice petroglyph site.  I spent a couple of hours exploring the area before saying good-bye to Alamo Dam and Alamo Canyon (for the time being anyway…I shall return someday and find “The Story Teller”!). Here are a few of the photos I took of the petroglyph site I am calling “Alamo West”.  For a gallery of more photos that I took at Alamo West, look here. 

After my visit to Alamo West, I made my way back to IH-10 and continued west to El Paso.  I made a quick stop at Desert Oak Barbeque for lunch.  How could I pass up the western-most Texas Monthly top 50 joint?  Look here for my review of Desert Oak on my BBQ Blog. 

With my belly full of marginal BBQ and my failures at Alamo Canyon behind me, I headed to China Draw, a petroglpyh site north of Deming, New Mexico.  I didn’t really know what to expect at this site and but I was pleasantly surprised at what I found.  The China Draw site is not far from the Pony Hills and Frying Pan Canyon sites and you can see the similarities between the three sites.  China Draw is not as large as Pony Hills or Frying Pan, but has one really nice boulder that is completely covered with petroglyphs.  There is also an unusual feature that consists of six bedrock grinding mortars arranged going up a natural walkway of sorts.  It looks to me like it might be a small ritual site.   Look here for a more complete gallery of the photos I took at China Draw and a short video of the “Ritual Stairway” feature.  After exploring and having a nice little hike, I headed to Truth or Consequences (by way of the quirky little town of Hatch) where I spent the night.   

Tuesday, April 19, 2022 — Arroyo Del Tajo, Lobo Canyon and Ventana Arch at El Mapais

As is my custom, I was up early on Tuesday morning April 19, 2022, excited to be heading toward the Arroyo Del Tajo pictograph site.  I enjoyed the drive out to the site on the Quebradas National Back Country Byway and the fairly short hike down to the site.  I was not sure what I was expecting — I had read reports that the site has suffered much damage from natural causes over the last few years.   When I reached the site, that is exactly what I found.  I am glad I made time to visit, because I am afraid that there won’t be much left at all with the passage of more time and more weathering. 

I had very mixed feelings about the Arroyo Del Tajo site.  On the one hand, I was happy I got around to seeing it.  On the other hand, the damage, although from natural causes, was disheartening and depressing.  If you want to see anything at all at this site, you better do it soon.  To see a gallery that includes more photos that I took at Arroyo Del Tajo, look here.

After I finished at Arroyo Del Tajo and hiked back up to my car, I decided to stop by Abo Pass and try to locate some of the pictographs that are supposed to be there.  I wasn’t able to locate the site on my last visit to the area, but this time I was pretty sure I knew exactly where it was.  What I found was another site that had been ravaged —  this time it came at the hand of thoughtless people and natural weathering.  Although near the highway, you can’t get very close, but I was able to see the remains of some of the old pictographs with my long lens.  The amount of grafitti at this site is staggering and disgusting.  I would, however, like to take a closer look someday, and perhaps walk along the base of the cliff and some of the ledges to get a better idea of just how much of the art remains.  To see more of my pictures from Abo Pass, look here.

From Abo Pass, I headed north and west to the El Mapais National Monument, located south of Grants, New Mexico.  I had never been to this scenic and rugged area —  I am very glad I took the time to see this dramatic landscape.  My primary objective was a visit to the petroglyph site in the Lobo Canyon area of the Monument.  I thoroughly enjoyed the drive south through the Monument, and eventually made it to the Lobo Canyon trailhead late in the afternoon.  After a short hike that passed through a deep, sandy wash (dry, thank goodness!) I reached the site.  I was not disappointed by the well executed elements of the three large panels of petroglyphs.  For a gallery of all the photos I took of the Lobo Canyon petroglyphs, look here.  

I had originally planned to visit another site named Aldridge Point which is located in Sand Canyon several miles from Lobo Canyon.  Since I was looking at a much longer hike over unfamiliar territory and shadows were already beginning to overtake the canyons, I decided not to try to hike to the Aldridge site, convinced I would end up hiking in the dark.  So I headed back north out of the Monument, making a quick stop at Ventana Arch to photograph the sun setting on this magnificent arch.  I then drove to Santa Fe, where I spent the night. 

Wednesday, April 20, 2022 —  Randall Davey Audubon Center, Santuario de Chimayo, Navajo Dam and Lake, and Simon Canyon Pueblito

I awoke Wednesday morning in one of my favorite places on earth —  Santa Fe, New Mexico.  I decided to change things up a bit and headed over to the Randall Davey Audubon Center for a hike and some bird watching. It was a brisk morning, cool and windy.  I had a nice hike and enjoyed the beautiful morning.  I didn’t see many birds, but that was fine with me– it was the kind of morning that makes you supremely happy just to be alive!  When I got back home, with the aid of my trusty Merlin App, I realized that I had watched and photographed a pair of Red-naped Sapsuckers, which were life birds for me and I was supremely happy to add them to my life list along with the Golden-cheeked Warbler and the Spotted Towhee I had seen at SLRSP on the first day of my trip.

Energized from my morning hike at the bird sanctuary, I headed for Santuario de Chimayo. I had decided to visit Chimayo the night before as I was looking at my New Mexico map.  I had two purposes in mind for this visit.  First, I wanted to eat lunch at Rancho de Chimayo, a very good restaurant that Dr. Britt Bousman had taken our Cross Bar Ranch Field School participants to back in 2017.   But the main reason I wanted to visit Santuario de Chimayo was of a spiritual nature.  Several years ago I had seen (or read, I honestly can’t remember which) something about the miraculous healing properties of the holy dirt at this sacred site.  My mother-in-law (Betty Dardeau) is Catholic and had been suffering a number of physical maladies associated with her advanced age and was not in very good spirits these last several years.  So I wanted to visit this shrine and hopefully procure some of the Holy Dirt to take back to Betty.  I really didn’t know what to expect, but I was blown away by the Santuario’s size, scope, and by the number of people that were visiting on the afternoon that I was there.  I had no idea that it was one of the premier pilgrimage sites in North America.  So, I spent several hours there.  I walked the grounds, which I found very interesting.  I also spent some time meditating and praying in the main chapel.  And, as per my original mission, I visited the “Dirt Room” and dug some Holy Dirt to take home to my sweet mother-in-law.  I left refreshed, rejuvenated, and grateful for the many Blessings in my life.

After spending a couple of hours at the Shrine, I headed down the road, looking forward to some good food at Rancho de Chimayo.  Unfortunately, they were extremely busy and, after a 30 minute wait to get seated, I gave up and continued north toward Navajo Dam.  I had never visited the dam or Navajo Lake, so I made the scenic drive north and enjoyed the beautiful landscapes and quaint towns I encountered along the way.  After driving past the lake and over the dam, I made my way to the Simon Canyon Trailhead (by the San Juan River several miles below Navajo Dam).  I ended my day by hiking out to the Simon Canyon Pueblito, which I thoroughly enjoyed!  

Thursday, April 21, 2022 —  Day One, Dinetah Region (Largo Canyon)

As I approach my seventies, I am increasingly aware that I have to be very careful about visiting backcountry sites by myself.  So, I am constantly looking for activities that will help me avoid hiking by myself.  A while back, while roaming the internet, I ran across a reference that indicated the Salmon Ruins Museum in Bloomfield, New Mexico, gave guided tours into the Dinetah Region (Largo Canyon).  I sent a general inquiry to the museum via email and, in short order, I heard back from Tori Myers (“Archaeologist, Ceramic Specialist, Education Coordinator, Museum Curator and Research Librarian, Salmon Ruins Museum”) and she confirmed that she (through the museum) did give tours of the region.  We emailed back and forth, and eventually arranged for her to serve as my guide and companion on Thursday, April 21, 2022 and Friday, April 22, 2022.

Tori and I had agreed that we would meet at the museum at 8:00 a.m. on Thursday, April 21, 2022.  As is my custom I arrived early —  7:15 a.m. to be exact.  As I was sitting in my car waiting, I observed a female exit the museum and place something in a nearby vehicle.  I exited my car and went over and introduced myself.  Sure enough, it was Tori.  She suggested that I come in and look around the museum until it was time for us to leave.  So I spent the next thirty minutes or exploring the museum, which I found very informative and enjoyable.

Tori and I left the museum promptly at 8:00 a.m. and, after a stop at a local grocery store for ice and sandwiches for lunch, headed east to Largo Canyon.  We spent the morning hiking a large side canyon north of the wash.  We found no rock art until the very end of our hike (near the opposite site of the canyon) when we located a pueblito with a couple of small panels nearby.  

We stopped at an old abandoned farmstead and had lunch in a nearby alcove.  Tori said there were a lot of old farmsteads in Largo — a person could claim 150 acres by building a structure and living there for five years.  Tori was able to date the farmstead between 1900 and 1920 because it had milled lumber for the door frame. 

After lunch, we visited a number of roadside sites, none of which were particularly memorable.  Our first stop was at an old dried up spring (protected by an old wooden fence) that had some historic art and a few very old petroglyphs.

Next we visited an area of canyon wall that had a variety of petroglyph styles along with the obligatory historic graffiti.  

The last panel we visited Thursday afternoon was a unique pictograph panel.  It was made using a white clay, which was highly valued for its use as a “slip” on pottery.  There was a large and prominent vein of the clay very near the pictograph.  

As we were driving back to the museum late Thursday afternoon, Tori mentioned that there were some nice basketmaker petroglyph panels on Simon Canyon Road about a mile before you get to the trailhead for the Simon Canyon Ruins.  Imagine that — I had driven right past them the day before and completely missed them!  So, instead of heading back to my motel, I drove back out to Simon Canyon Road and found the petroglyphs.  Here are a few pictures — they were nice panels indeed!  

Friday, April 22, 2022 —  Day Two, Dinetah Region (Largo Canyon)

Friday morning I arrived at the museum early again and used the time before we left to walk around the ruins on the grounds behind the museum.  

We once again headed for Largo Canyon to do some more exploring.  Our first stop was in an area near the intersection of Fresno Canyon and the main wash in Largo.  This area had a large amount of historic art mixed in with some very old petroglyphs.  

Nearby was a small panel that featured two unusual handprints, surrounded by what looks like  four silhouettes of mountains.  The interior of each hand also had some interesting features present. 

After exploring the area around Fresno Canyon, we crossed over the wash on a good road to look for the well known “Star Ceiling” Site.  Tori explained that Navajo “medicine” required that certain rituals must be performed when the stars (constellations) are in a certain position in the sky.  The “Star Ceiling” site was used when a ritual needed to be performed but it was the wrong time of year, thus the stars were out of position.  This site contains over 40 “stars” each represented by an “X” on the ceiling. 

Not far from the Star Ceiling Site we located an unusual site that I have heard described as “Two Feathered Masks”.  I could not really make out any masks, or feathers for that matter. To me, it was a strange site indeed!

We crossed back over the main wash and continued exploring in the area south of Fresno Canyon.  We came across a site that Tori called “Four Horned Yei”.  It appeared to be a very old site with a combination of petroglyphs and painted surfaces.  A very interesting little site!  On the ground in front of the site we found a Gobernador Polychrome pottery sherd.  Tori (who is a ceramics specialist) said this style typically had a red slip and black decorations and has been dated between 1580 and 1700. 

We spent about an hour and a half exploring a small un-named side canyon nearby and found what I am calling the “Two Red Yeis” pictograph panel.  Per Tori, Yeis are Navajo dieties and there are literally hundreds of them.  They usually have a mask or headress and objects in one or both hands.  They also often have a wrap around kilt with a belt.  Tori said the figure at this site with the bow in its hand was known as the “Monster Slayer”, one of the hero twins.  Normally the “Monster Slayer” appears with his twin brother, “Born For Water”.  At this panel, Tori said she believes the hunched-back figure on the left is Ganaskidi, the fertility (or harvest) Yei.  This Navajo god brings fertility, and because of that is very dangerous.  He is likened to a rapist who cannot control himself.  You want him to come around, but, if he sees your wife or daughter, they might get pregnant —  quite the catch 22!

This pictograph panel was difficult to spot because it was high up on the canyon wall and from a number of vantage points was obscured by trees.  The two pictographs are very colorful and quite well preserved, with no graffiti to be found anywhere nearby.  Perhaps my favorite panel (to-date) in the Dinetah! 

We had lunch in a shaded area near the Two Red Yei pictographs.  As we came out of the small side canyon to continue our explorations, we noticed a sand storm kicking up down canyon.  Since it was still pretty far off, we continued on and, in short order, came upon a petroglyph site that Tori called “The Medicine Man”.  The site also had a large number of several different animal tracks —  a very interesting little site!  

We continued to walk along the canyon wall on the edge of the main wash as the dust storm continued to close in on us.  We saw a few petroglyphs mixed with historic art along the way before the dust and wind got so bad we decided the best thing to do was to call it a day.

A quick note about Morman Tea.  While we were doing our last little bit of hiking and exploring, we climbed up to a ledge to look at an old bee hive area in a small rock opening.  While we were up there, Tori pointed out a bush with small yellow flowers and said it was Mormon Tea.  She said that this plant has not changed for thousands of years and it is a powerful stimulant that was used by Brigham Young and the early Mormons.  

Well, That Brings Us To The End of  “Part 1 — Getting There”…

Sorry about the length of Part 1 — it seems I packed a lot of activities into the first part of my trip on the way up to Bluff, Utah.  As is often the case, I have a number of places that I want to return to at some point in the future.  There remains much to explore at Alamo Canyon, El Mapais, and the Dinetah Region!  But for now, it is on to “Part 2 — A Few Days In Bluff”.  Click the button below to go directly to Part 2. 

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