Frank Lloyd Wright Out West
Prologue…
During the later part of 2023 I began to plan a trip for January, 2024. I was very close to booking a birding trip to Panama, but then the tragedy of October 7, 2023, happened. I developed an uneasy feeling in the pit of my stomach when I thought of traveling overseas during this turbulent time. So, I decided to stay in the states and planned a hybrid trip that included visits to Frank Lloyd Wright (FLLW) sites in Phoenix and the Los Angeles area, a three day “Photo Safari” with professional photographer Brent Paull, and visits to a number of rock art sites in the Volcanic Tablelands north of Bishop, California and several sites in and around Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona. This Blog post covers the FLLW portion of my trip. There is a link to the Photo Safari and Rock Art portions of this trip at the end of this blog.
A Stop In Phoenix On The Way to Los Angeles…
I began my trip on the morning of Wednesday, January 3, 2024, right after finishing a Fusion MRI in Kyle, Texas. I drove to Van Horn, Texas where I spent the night. Besides a convenient geographic location, I had another reason for stopping in Van Horn. I wanted to eat dinner at Chuy’s Restuarant and see the John Madden shrine, known as “The Madden Haul of Fame”. I had met Madden many years ago in Las Vegas– my friend Lou Duva introduced me to him, and I have fond memories of my brief encounter with this quirky character. Unfortunately, Chuy’s was closed and All I could do was peek through the windows.
I was up early the next morning, Thursday, January 4, 2024, and drove to Phoenix, AZ, arriving a little before noon. It was a beautiful morning and I was excited to visit some Frank Lloyd Wright (FLLW) sites in the area. I had visited Taliesin West in the Fall of 2022, but my time, (and knowledge of FLLW) was limited on that trip, so there was lots for me to see that day.
First Christian Church of Phoenix…
My first stop that morning was First Christian Church, located at 6750 No. 7th Avenue in Phoenix proper. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this beautiful, and amazing, church. Fortunately, one of the office staff was kind enough to let me in the sanctuary. I spent a couple of hours viewing and photographing this FLLW masterpiece, and was grateful that I got to experience this special place.
For more about First Christian Church and to view a more complete gallery of the photographs I took that day, look here.
The Arizona Biltmore Hotel…
After finishing up at the First Christian Church, I made the short drive over to the Arizona Biltmore Hotel, located at 2701 East Biltmore Circle. After parking in the visitor’s parking garage, I spent a couple of hours exploring every nook and cranny of this outstanding hotel and its beautiful grounds. While FLLW’s exact involvement with this project is a little muddled and unclear, everywhere you look you see his influence. The monumental entrance and front lawn were beyond majestic. While exploring the exquisite lobby, I saw many beautiful people and beautiful things, including the “Saguaro Forms and Cactus Flowers” stained glass peice in the lobby, and the iconic Wright Bar, where the Tequila Sunrise was created. Kawhi Leonard and his LA Clippers teammates were hanging in the lobby waiting for their transportation, and I saw many other intriguing people– it was great people-watching in a magnificent setting!
After a thorough examination of the lobbies and common areas, I headed out onto the massive grounds of the hotel. Fabulous landscaping, seventeen more Sprites, and magnificent cottages and room blocks made for an entertaining stroll!
After a couple of hours at the Arizona Biltmore, it was time to move on. But I am grateful that I was able to experience this beautiful place. For more photos and information about the Arizona Biltmore, look here.
The Phoenix Area “Drive-by” Sites:
I spent the next several hours of daylight visiting a number of FLLW sites that were not open to the public. The first of these sites was The Raymond Carlson Residence, located at 1123 West Palo Verde Drive in Phoenix. This house is just barely visible from the street, but I wanted to include it because of its unique construction method (post-and-panel) and the history between the Carlsons and FLLW. Look here for more photos and information about this home.
Next, I headed to the Benjamin Adelman Residence, located at 5802 No. 30th St. in Phoenix, AZ. This house was very impressive viewed from the street, sporting a large manicured lawn, a beautiful front gate, and a winding drive to the home. For more information about, and my photos of, this home, look here.
I didn’t have far to go to visit the next house on my list, since the Jorgine Boomer Residence was located right next door to the Adelman House. While Adelman was perfectly manicured and expansive, the Boomer “Cottage” was rustic, with a gravel drive and the house surrounded and obscured by trees and bushes. None-the-less, I was delighted to get a peek at this unusual home. For more information about, and my photos of, the Boomer House, look here.
After finishing up at the two houses on North 30th Street, I headed up to the foothills of the Phoenix Mountain Preserve to visit the visually stunning Aime and Norman Lykes Residence, designed by FLLW in 1959. Storrer reports that the Lykes Residence was Wright’s last residential design to be built by the original client. For a gallery of my photos and for more information about this special structure, look here. I walked up and down the street several times, completely captivated by this house!
It was a short drive from the Lykes House to my next stop, the Harold Price, Sr. Residence, located at 7211 N. Tatum, Paradise Valley, AZ. Dorothy and I had visited the Price Tower (designed by FLLW for Price, Sr.) in Bartlesville, OK, during a Spring, 2023 trip and, based on that experience, I was really excited to see the Price, Sr. retirement home in Paradise Valley, AZ. I must say, I was a little disappointed, but, perhaps someday I will get to see the inside of the home and my opinion will be changed. For a small gallery of my photos (which includes a link to a site that has a large number of photos, both interior and exterior), look here.
I left the Price Sr. Residence and drove to 6442 E. Cheney Rd., also in Paradise Valley, AZ. Unfortunately I could not see any part of the residence from the street, so I did not include it in my “Phoenix Area Drive-by Sites”. I then went around the corner and stopped by Ascension Lutheran Church on Mockingbird. It was designed by Wes Peters and was the first project of Taliesin after Wright’s death. I am glad I stopped to see it, because it looks like it will be demolished later this year.
After my brief visit to Ascension Lutheran Church, I headed south to 5212 E. Exeter Blvd. in Phoenix, and the Gladys and David Wright Residence. Wright came up with this unique design for his son and daughter-in-law. David Wright was involved in the design, manufacture, and promotion of concrete block so it is understandable that this design is primarily concrete block. For more information and a gallery of my photos from this site, look here. As you can see from my gallery of photos, this structure is currently undergoing renovation.
The sun was setting as I left the Gladys and David Wright Residence and headed for the campus of Arizona State University in Tempe, Arizona. I had one final building on my Phoenix area to-do list, namely, the Grady Gammage Memorial Auditorium, located on Apache Blvd. at Mill Ave on the ASU campus. It took me a while to get through the rush hour traffic and it was dark when I arrived. I was delighted to see the Auditorium all lit up, and soon realized that there must be some sort of function scheduled for that evening. I parked my car and made my way to the entrance of the building. I asked one of the security people what was going on that evening and he said a Broadway production. So I went to the ticket office and, as fate would have it, I bought the last ticket to “The Wiz”, on the front row! I had plenty of time before the performance to wander the building and the property and was grateful that I got to see the building being used for what Wright designed it for. What a great way to end my day! For more information about the Gammage Memorial Auditorium and a gallery of the photos I took that night, look here.
On To Los Angeles and My Hollyhock Tour…
I left Phoenix bright and early (5:00 a.m. to be exact!) on the morning of Friday, January 5, 2024, headed west on IH-10 toward Los Angeles. I planned a route that would allow me to drive by a couple of FLLW houses on the northwestern out-skirts of Los Angeles. At my first stop, I hoped to see the Wilbur Pearce Residence, located at 5 Bradbury Hills Rd., Bradbury, California. During my pre-trip research I discovered that this house was located in a gated community, and, sure enough, it was. I was hoping I could talk my way past the gate with a dose of good old fashioned honesty, but it was not to be, so no drive-by photos of this one. If you would like to see a few photos of this very cool hemi-cycle style house, check out Edward Fagan’s Blog. I would love to see this one– maybe someday!
From the impenetrable gate at Bradbury Hills I headed over to Pasadena, CA. While I encountered no gates en route to the Millard House (aka “La Miniatura”), I did have to negotiate the remnants of the grandstands from the Rose Bowl Parade, which were very near the house. I enjoyed driving by and photographing this house. It had a very intriguing street presence and, once again, I found myself wishing I could go inside! (For my small gallery of photos that I took from the street, look here. For a peak at some photos of the grounds and the inside of this beautiful house, look here.)
I left La Miniatura and headed for the glitz and glamour of Rodeo Drive in the heart of downtown Hollywood. The object of my affections in this area was The Anderton Court Shops that FLLW designed for Nina Anderton, a wealthy Bel Air philanthropist, who commissioned Wright to design a small complex of retail shops for a lot she owned in Beverly Hills. The structure FLLW designed is not large, being only 50 feet wide and and 150 feet deep. Originally it was to include four separate retail spaces and a top floor penthouse apartment for the property’s caretaker. But over time the shops were split up and there are now six smaller units, three on each side of the central walkway. It appears that the building has been recently sold and each of the retail spaces have been cleaned out and signs removed. It will be interesting to see what happens to this unique space. To learn a little more about The Anderton Court Shops, look here. You can find a small gallery of the photos I took that day here.
I decided that I was tired of fighting LA Friday afternoon traffic, and played tourist for the rest of the afternoon. I headed to the Ovation Mall and soaked in the energy and excitement that is Hollywood. I explored the mall, then walked the entire Hollywood Walk of Fame. A few pics from the rest of that enjoyable afternoon.
I spent Friday night at a Comfort Inn on West Sunset Blvd. in Los Angeles. I was quite tired after a busy day, but slept extremely well. I was up very early and drove over to Brentwood Heights and the George D. Sturges Residence. I arrived well before sunrise and took a large number of photos of this unique house. To see a brochure (from the 2016 Auction of the house) with many photos of the house as well as a detailed history, look here. To see my gallery of photos, look here. My visit to the Sturges house was a great way to start my day!
After I had my fill of the Sturges House, I headed for the hills, the Hollywood hills, and the John Storer Residence. It was a pleasant early morning drive, interupted by a quick stop at the beautiful UCLA campus, where I stretched my legs with a walk around the Franklin Murphy Sculpture Garden.
Energized by my stroll on the UCLA campus, I continued on into the Hollywood Hills and the John Storer Residence. I was particularly excited to see this home, since I had learned (while on a tour of Auldbrass) that it was owned and renovated by film producer Joel Silver. Silver used it as his private residence, but it was also used during his filming of “Diehard” and “Lethal Weapon”. I would love to see the interior of this home some day, but for now I will have to be satisfied with looking at it from the street. To see some photos of the interior of the house, look here. For a gallery of my drive-by photos, look here.
After my visit to the Storer House, I headed over to 1962 Glencoe Way and the Samuel Freeman Residence. The structure is in the midst of a renovation/restoration and the view from the street was considerably less than impressive. For more information about this structure, including plans for the future, look here. To see a gallery of my drive-by photos from that morning, go here.
I made one last stop before heading to Olive Hill and my Hollyhock Tour: The Mabel and Charles Ennis Residence. To say that this house is monumental would be an understatement. I thoroughly enjoyed my drive-by visit, and sincerely hope that someday I might have the good fortune to tour the inside. For some detailed information and photos, look here. Go here to see my gallery of drive-by photos.
I Visit The Aline Barnsdall House, aka “Hollyhock”…
I had made an appointment for the first Hollyhock tour of the day at 11:00 a.m. on Saturday, January 6, 2024. I arrived at the top of Olive Hill about thirty minutes early and spent some time walking around the grounds. It was a beautiful morning, and a beautiful place. I was one of the first people to tour the house that morning, and it was a real treat! There were knowledgeable and friendly docents stationed throughout the house and none of my questions went unanswered. I am grateful that I got to experience this special place.
I spent about an hour exploring the inside of Hollyhock. Around each corner was a striking feature or a unique detail. I was glad they let you wander at your own pace, and did not restrict your time inside the home. And each of the docents I talked to were knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and kind. What a great way to spend a morning in Los Angeles! Below are some of my interior photographs. To see all my galleries of photos from Hollyhock, look here. The 44 page tour guide details the history of Hollyhock and explains many of Wright’s design features. It can be seen here.
Three Drive-Bys Complete My Trip…
While my visit to Hollyhock was certainly the highlight of my trip, there was still a little work left to do on the FLLW portion of my little trip. I left Hollyhock and drove down to Huntington Beach, where did a little bird watching and spent the night. Sunday morning (January 7, 2024) I was on the move again as I drove north of Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, where I would spend the night. On the way, I stopped to see a FLLW house and a cave filled with Chumash pictographs….
The George C. Stewart Summer Residence, “Butterfly Woods”…
My first stop for the day was in Montecito to drive by the George C. Stewart residence, known as “Butterfly Wood”. This home was the first that Wright designed for the state of California, and the only Wright Prairie style home in the state. The 5,000 square foot residence sits on 5 heavily treed acres, making it difficult to get decent photos, but I did My best. The main feature of the design is the two-story living room, which features a balcony that looks down on the space from the second story bedrooms. For an interesting article about the current owner and for a few interior photos, look here. I didn’t take many photos on my visit, but what I did take can be found here.
My Last Two Drive-Bys: The Kundert Medical Clinic and the Mrs. Clinton Walker Residence…
I spent Sunday night in Santa Barbara, CA, and was up early on the morning of Monday, January 8, headed for my last two FLLW California Drive-Bys. My first stop that morning was the Kundert Medical Clinic, located at 1106 Pacific St. in San Luis Obispo, CA. This beautiful brick building is in remarkably good shape. I arrived at the site early and was able to peak inside the front door and see the beautiful waiting area, which is highlighted by a fireplace and three-course perforated wood panel clerestory. So glad I took the time to stop and see this well preserved building! To see a small gallery of all the photos I took that morning, look here.
From San Luis Obispo I took the 101 North and headed for Carmel, California, and a visit to the iconic Mrs. Clinton Walker Residence. While this house was quite a bit to the north of my originally intended route for my trip, I decided the Walker House and a chance to see some of the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) were worth spending the time and traveling the roughly 150 miles required to get there. In retrospect, I am glad I made this effort– the scenery was breathtaking and the Walker House was stunning! Originally I had planned to travel Highway One (The Pacific Coast Highway) all the way back down to Cambria, where I would spend Monday night. Unfortunately two miles of tyhe PCH was closed south of Big Sur near Limekiln State Park. After spending time at the Waker house I drove about 35 minutes south to enjoy the stunning scenery. My only regret is that I didn’t take the time to visit the Pebble Beach Golf Course, which is just north of Carmel. Maybe next time!
Back to my visit to the Walker House. It is currently undergoing restoration having recently sold for 22 million dollars. It is perched on Carmel Point and the views are magnificent. I was able to peak at the house from the street and I was also able to climb down and approach the house from the beach on the south side. Below are a few photos from my visit. To see a more complete gallery of my Walker House photos, look here. And, for an in-depth video tour of the house, look here.
EPILOGUE…
The Walker House in Carmel was the last FLLW site I visited on my little California trip. I really enjoyed the time I spent touring and photographing Wright’s structures in the Los Angeles area! The day after my visit to the Walker House I spent the first of three days with Brent Paull, photographing wildlife and birds. To see my blog that covers this part of my California trip, look here.
Originally I had planned to spend about another week visiting rock art sites that have somehow avoided me on previous excursions. My first stop was to be the Volcanic Tablelands near Bishop, California (Elevation 4,150). Checking the weather I found that it was snowing in Bishop the day before I planned to drive up there. A further check of the forecast showed the next number of days was going to involve more snow and very cold temperatures. Since my driving skill on icy and snow covered roads is, shall we say, sub-standard to non-existent, I decided the better part of valor dictated that I postpone the last few days of my trip and head home early. That is exactly what I did!
I am grateful that I have the financial resources and the good health to still take trips such as this. I am most grateful for the love and encouragement of my wife Dorothy, for without her steadfast support, I doubt that I would be able to plan and execute my trips. Thank you Dorothy!
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