AT THE PROCESSION PANEL ON COMB RIDGE, SUNDAY, APRIL 24, 2022.

Going With The Flow —  Spring 2022 Rock Art Trip (Part 2)

Prologue…

For quite some time I have entertained the notion that someday I would take a raft trip down the San Juan River and see some of the rock art and archaeology along that corridor, including sites south of the river on Navajo Reservation land.  Although I had been to the Bluff Area many times, I just never got around to looking into a raft trip.  That changed in early 2022 when I started poking around on the internet trying to figure out the best outfit to take an archaeology based trip with on the San Juan River.  As I recall, I googled San Juan River Raft Trip and petroglyphs and up popped the website of Tsé Kooh Outfitters, and the specifics on their “Water and Rocks” trip scheduled for late April of 2022.  When I read “Join Tsé Kooh Outfitters and recognized archeologist, rock art specialist and author Carol Patterson…” it looked to me like this is just the trip that I had been looking for.  Of course, I knew Carol Patterson by reputation and had read some of her work, so I was certainly excited about the possibility of going on this trip.  I contacted Cody Little, owner of Tsé Kooh and in short order signed up for the trip.  Cody indicated that in addition to Carol Patterson there would be other archaeologists on the trip and that some of them were going to be doing some research into the acoustical characteristics and anomalies of some of the sites that we would be visiting.  He also stated that he had permits to hike up Chinle Wash on the Navajo Reservation and I found that prospect quite intriguing. 

With the Tsé Kooh rafting trip set as the crown jewel of the trip, I began to fill in the details of the time I would be spending on the way up and back to the Four Corners/Bluff area.  There were a number of sites that I wanted to visit along the way so I began planning in earnest.  In short order, I had the trip pretty much planned and reservations and arrangements in place.  What follows is my account of this trip.  I have divided my blog into four parts, as follows:  1. Getting There; 2) A Few Days in Bluff; 3) Water and Rocks Rafting Trip; and 4) The Trip Home.  I hope you get a sense of the many wonderful people and places I experienced on this trip through my words and photographs.  So, without further fanfare, here is “Part 2–  A Few Days In Bluff”!

 

Part 2 — A Few Days In Bluff

Saturday, April 23, 2022 — Montezuma Canyon

I left Farmington in the rear view mirror on Saturday, April 23, 2022 and headed north to spend the day exploring Montezuma Canyon.  You can enter Montezuma from the north, by heading east on a road just south of Monticello, Utah.  Or you can enter the canyon from the south, with access on a road that heads east out of Blanding, Utah.  I had planned to enter from the south entrance near Blanding, wanting to explore the Montezuma Creek petroglyph sites first, in the morning sun.  Unfortunately, I missed my turn (onto Hwy 160 north of Shiprock, from Hwy 491 North) and ended up going through Cortez, Dove Creek, and Monticello.  But that was ok, because I always enjoy the beautiful scenery along the northern route into Utah.  I stopped in Monticello for gas, and bought a couple of salads for my dinners the next two nights.

FIXING TO CROSS INTO UTAH WEST OF DOVE CREEK, COLORADO ON HIGHWAY 491. THE SNOW-CAPPED ABAJO MOUNTAINS CAN BE SEEN IN THE DISTANCE.
IN NO TIME I WAS IN MONTICELLO, UTAH, WHERE I HEADED SOUTH TO BLANDING.

Shortly before Blanding, I stopped at Recapture Reservoir to stretch my legs.  It was a beautiful morning to take a walk at a beautiful lake, the largest in San Juan County. 

iT WAS A BEAUTIFUL MORNING AT RECAPTURE RESERVOIR, WITH THE SNOW-CAPPED ABAJO MOUNTAINS AS A BACKDROP.

In short order I passed through Blanding and turned east, headed for the south end of Montezuma Canyon.  My first stop was at the Montezuma Creek Petroglyph Site, which is the largest rock art site in the canyon, covering over a quarter of a mile of canyon wall and a number of panels.

THIS SMALL PANEL OF SANDHILL CRANES WAS ONE OF THE FIRST I SAW AT THE MONTEZUMA CREEK SITE.
THIS PANEL AT MONTEZUMA CREEK HAD SOME INTERESTING GEOMETRIC ELEMENTS.
ANOTHER OF THE WELL KNOWN PANELS AT MONTEZUMA CREEK THAT FEATURES SEVERAL BUFFALO FIGURES.
ANOTHER VIEW OF THE BUFFALO PANEL AT MONTEZUMA CREEK.

I spent a couple of hours walking the ledges at the Montezuma Creek site and also explored the area around the bend (past the corral), finding one small panel with a couple of spirals.  To see a more complete gallery of photos I took at the Montezuma Creek site, look here.  I then headed up canyon to the Covered Wagon Ruin, a small site with only one wall remaining and a panel of petroglyphs that features the namesake image of a covered wagon.  To see a more complete gallery of photos from this small site, look here.  

THE MAIN PETROGLYPH PANEL AT THE COVERED WAGON RUIN IN MONTEZUMA CANYON.
IN THIS VIEW OF THE COVERED WAGON RUIN YOU CAN SEE THE ONE REMAINING WALL, TO THE RIGHT OF THE PETROGLYPH PANEL.

Next on my list of the sites I wanted to visit was the “Watched Over Ruin”,  with its namesake petroglyph “watching over” the ruins below.  This little site also has some other interesting petroglyphs associated with the ruins.  For a more complete gallery of photos  from  this site, look here. 

THE WATCHED OVER RUIN IS NEAR THE ROAD, AND NOT HARD TO SEE IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.
THE NAMESAKE ANTHROPOMORPH AT THE WATCHED OVER RUIN.
THERE ARE A COUPLE OF SMALL PETROGLYPH PANELS TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN ANTHROPOMORPH AT THE WATCHED OVER RUIN SITE.
THE WATCHED OVER RUIN SITE ORIGINALLY HAD SEVERAL STRUCTURES, BUT NOT MUCH IS LEFT.
THIS INTRIGUING LITTLE PANEL AT THE WATCHED OVER RUIN SITE FEATURES A SPIRAL EMERGING FROM A HOLE IN CLIFF AND POSSIBLE BEAR CLAN SYMBOLS.

Next, I had hoped to visit the “Two Shields Ruin”, named for two large shield pictographs.  Unfortunately, it was not meant to be —  I just couldn’t find a way to cross the creek/wash without getting very muddy and wet.  I knew my schedule was tight anyway, so after walking up and down the wash for quite a way and finding no way to cross, I finally gave up and moved on to the Three Kiva Pueblo. 

A MORE DEDICATED EXPLORER WOULD HAVE PROBABLY FOUND A WAY ACROSS THIS OBSTACLE. IN DEFENSE OF MY FAILURE, THE WHOLE CREEK BOTTOM (AS WELL AS THE SIDES) WAS VERY VERY SOFT.

I didn’t stay long, but I am glad I took time to make a brief stop at Three Kiva Pueblo.  I never get tired of climbing down into kivas, especially those that have been as nicely rehabilitated as this one!

THE THREE KIVA PUEBLO SITE IS WELL MARKED AND EASY TO FIND. A BEAUTIFUL SKY GREETED ME AS I APPROACHED THE SITE!
THE ROOF AND ENTRY TO THE RECONSTRUCTED KIVA AT THREE KIVAS RUINS.
I AM GRATEFUL THAT BLM HAS PRESERVED AND MAINTAINED THIS SITE -- THEY HAVE DONE A NICE JOB WITH THIS KIVA.
YOURS TRULY INSIDE THE REHABILITATED KIVA AT THREE KIVA PUEBLO.

Not far up canyon from the Three Kiva Pueblo is a small site with a couple of ruins.  One is called “The Double Granaries” and the other is called “High Ruin”.  I made a quick stop and took some photos, but since there was no rock art to be seen, I didn’t stay long. 

CAN YOU SPOT THE CAN YOU SPOT "THE DOUBLE GRANARIES" RUINS?
A CLOSER LOOK AT "THE DOUBLE GRANARIES RUINS".
I DIDN'T CLIMB ALL THE WAY UP TO "THE HIGH RUIN", BECAUSE, YOU GUESSED IT-- IT WAS UP PRETTY HIGH. I CLIMBED JUST FAR ENOUGH TO TAKE THIS PHOTO AND TAKE A LITTLE SPILL IN THE PROCESS.

My next stop was a large site known as the Bradford Canyons Ruins.  There are multiple well preserved structures on several different ledges/levels of a sweeping canyon wall.  While there are a few pictographs down low in an area protected with wooden rails, I studied my photos of the canyon walls and found no other pictographs or petroglyphs.  There are probably some up there, but I didn’t think it wise to try to climb the high ledges of this extensive site.  I enjoyed my stop at this beautiful spot in Montezuma Canyon!  To see a more complete gallery of the rock art panel at the Bradford Canyon Ruin, look here. 

HOW MANY RUINS CAN YOU SPOT IN THIS PHOTO OF PART OF THE BRADFORD CANYON WALL?
THIS WAS ONCE A SIZEABLE STRUCTURE IN BRADFORD CANYON.
IN NUMEROUS SPOTS AT THIS SITE YOU SEE NOT ONLY INTACT STRUCTURES BUT PARTIAL WALLS, INDICATING THE EXISTENCE OF MANY MORE STRUCTURES IN THE PAST.
WAS THIS A DEFENSIVE WALL, OR A LARGE STRUCTURE THAT HAD ENTRY POINTS HIDDEN FROM BELOW?
THE PICTOGRAPHS AT BRADFORD CANYON WERE IN POOR SHAPE, BUT STILL QUITE INTERESTING.
UNIQUE GEOMETRIC DESIGNS AT THE BRADFORD CANYON PICTOGRAPH SITE.

I followed up my visit to the expansive Bradford Canyon Ruins site with a stop at one of the most photographed spots in Montezuma Canyon:  The Honeycomb Ruin.  This little structure is very well preserved and framed with some interesting geology that resembles a honeycomb.  The sandstone weathers in this fashion due to salt deposits that dissolve in a manner that forms the honeycomb effect.  I love this little ruin!

The stunning and intimate little ruin known as Honeycomb.
Your humble blogger, sitting just below the Honeycomb Ruin in Montezuma Canyon.
A FINAL LOOK AT THE HONEYCOMB RUIN. THE DARK PATINA OF THE SURROUNDING AREAS MAKE A NICE CONTRAST WITH THE MASONRY AND THE HONEYCOMB SECTION OF ROCK.

On my way to my last site of the day, I spotted a small ruin and climbed up to it.  It is difficult to see from the road since it is obscured by vegetation and in an unusual position on the canyon wall.  Just one of many little granaries in Montezuma Canyon that are easy to overlook!

THE OFTEN OVERLOOKED GRANARY ON THE WAY TO THE SHAMAN PANEL IN MONTEZUMA CANYON.
A LITTLE CLOSER LOOK AT THE OFTEN OVERLOOKED GRANARY.

The last archaeological site I visited during my day in Montezuma Canyon was a petroglyph panel known as the Shaman Panel.  The panel has a number of anthropomorphic figures and a large element that some identify as the Spider Woman from the Hopi creation story.  In any event, it was a beautiful panel that I enjoyed sitting in front of and pondering as the evening shadows began to creep into Montezuma Canyon.  My photos don’t do this site justice but I hope they give you some sense of this sacred place.  For a more complete gallery of photos that I took of this site, look here.  

THIS WAS THE VIEW THAT GREETED ME AFTER CLIMBING UP TO THE SHAMAN PANEL.
A FRONT-ON VIEW OF THE SHAMAN PANEL. IS THAT THE SPIDER WOMAN EMERGING FROM THE CRACK AT THE TOP OF THE PANEL?
A CLOSER LOOK AT SOME OF THE ANTHROPOMORPHS IN THE LOWER PART OF THE SHAMAN PANEL.
MY LAST MONTEZUMA CANYON SELFIE FOR THE DAY! (AT THE SHAMAN PANEL, LOCATED IN THE NORTHERN PORTION OF THE CANYON.)

After my visit with the Shaman Panel, it was time to continue northward, and, eventully, out of Montezuma Canyon.  This part of the canyon was quite different than most of the landscapes I had encountered to the south —  it was on a much larger scale, and quite grand in spots, with shear, colorful bands of sandstone that were both magical and magnificent. And, if the natural landscapes were not enough, there were fascinating man made additions along some of the canyon walls.  There were large alcoves, some appeared natural, some were definitely made by modern machinery and means, and all were unique in their purpose, whether that be storage or habitation.  I will let my pictures tell their unusual and unexpected story. 

NOT TOO FAR NORTH OF THE SHAMAN PANEL I BEGAN TO SEE THE CANYON WALLS BEING PUT TO USE...
AT FIRST, THESE STRUCTURES ALONG THE CANYON WALLS APPEARED TO BE STRICTLY FOR STORAGE (SOMETIMES MACHINERY, SOMETIMES HAY, ETC.).
AS I CONTINUED NORTH, I BEGAN TO SEE HABITATIONS IN THE ALCOVES. SOME, LIKE THIS ONE, APPEARED QUITE UPSCALE AND ELABORATE.
THIS ONE WAS A LITTLE MORE PEDESTRIAN -- COVER FOR AN RV.
ANOTHER PRETTY NICE SET-UP. ALL OF THESE APPEARED TO BE COMPLETELY OFF-GRID. AMAZING!

As I exited Montezuma Canyon and headed south toward Bluff, I had mixed feelings about my day in the canyon.  On one hand, I am very grateful I got to spend a day in this amazing and beautiful place.  On the other hand, it almost seemed disrespectful, the way I dashed from site to site, with almost no time for contemplation or exploration.  And I was saddened by the realization that I will probably never set foot in Montezuma Canyon again.  But, I guess, you never know!

I made it to Bluff just as the sun was setting and checked in to the Recapture Lodge.  It felt like I was home.  When I am in Bluff I try to stay at Recapture if possible.  The folks that own and run it are so nice and kind, and it has a cozy, comfortable feel that is hard to beat.  I enjoyed a dinner of the salad I had bought in Monticello that morning, along with some avocado and cucumber from home.  My head hit the pillow that night with dreams of Comb Ridge!

FROM THE WHAT WILL THEY THINK OF NEXT DEPARTMENT: i STOPPED IN WHITE MESA RESERVATION SOUTH OF BLANDING FOR GAS AND, OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE ENCOUNTERED MY FIRST AUTOMATED TEMPERATURE CHECK MACHINE!
AS I DROPPED DOWN OFF OF WHITE MESA AND INTO BLUFF, I WAS GREETED BY THIS COLORFUL MURAL AS I CAME INTO TOWN.
MY SUPPER FOR THE NIGHT...I WAS PLENTY HUNGRY.
I THINK I WAS ASLEEP BEFORE MY HEAD HIT THE PILLOW...THE RECAPTURE LODGE HAS THAT EFFECT ON ME!

Sunday, April 24, 2022 — Comb Ridge, From Bottom To Top

I was up early on Sunday morning, excited to spend the day on Comb Ridge.  It had been a long time since I had spent any time in this wonderful place and I was raring to go.  My primary objective for the day was to visit the iconic Procession Panel.  How I had never made it to Procession is a mystery, because it has always been high on my list of places to visit on Comb Ridge.  But logistics required that I carefully order my day according to the locations of trailheads along Butler Wash Road.  Therefore, my first stop of the day would be the Double Stack Ruin, since I would reach that trailhead first.  

ONCE I TURNED ONTO BUTLER WASH ROAD, THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS WAS TO PURCHASE A DAY USE PERMIT AT THE SELF SERVICE PAY STATION.
JUST IN CASE, I WENT AHEAD AND PURCHASED A WEEK LONG PERMIT.

Double Stack Ruins

After a brief stop to get my day use permit, I headed north on Butler Wash Road (which was in pretty good shape this trip) for approximately 3.9 miles to the Double Stack trailhead.  I parked, then set out to hike to the site.  It was a pleasantly scenic hike, and not very difficult.  

AFTER DROPPING DOWN INTO BUTLER WASH AND CLIMBING UP THE OTHER SIDE I FOUND MYSELF ON SLICKROCK, HEADED FOR THE SMALL CANYON WHERE THE SITE IS LOCATED. I SAW SOME NICE COLOR ALONG THE WAY!
NOT LONG AFTER ENTERING THE CANYON WHERE DOUBLE STACK IS LOCATED, I CAME UPON THIS OLD NAVAJO WICKIUP ON THE CANYON FLOOR.

As I approached the alcove where the Double Stack Ruin was located, the first part of the site that was visible was the upper ruin, a large rectangular structure that is “stacked” above and on top of the main site. 

ALL I COULD SEE AS I APPROACHED THE DOUBLE STACK ALCOVE WAS THE UPPER RUIN ON A HIGH LEDGE, "STACKED" ABOVE THE MAIN RUINS DOWN LOW IN THE ALCOVE.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE UPPER RUIN AT DOUBLE STACK, WHICH IS REMARKABLY WELL PRESERVED. NO DOORWAY IS VISIBLE FROM DOWN BELOW.

As I progressed further into the alcove, the lower level ruin of Double Stack gradually came into view.  The most prominent feature of the lower level ruins is a high section of standing wall– its doorway and two higher up smaller openings almost make it look like it has a face.  There are a number of other partial structures on the lower level, which is surrounded by a log fence to keep the cattle out.  There was a lot to explore at Double Stack!

MY FIRST VIEW OF THE LOWER RUINS AT DOUBLE STACK, WITH THE PROMINENT STANDING WALL FRONT AND CENTER.
THE STANDING WALL WITH THE "FACE", LOOKING FROM THE OTHER SIDE. NOTE THE LARGE SPIRAL PETROGLYPH IN THE LOWER LEFT OF THE PHOTO. THERE IS LOTS TO SEE IN EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY OF THIS RUIN.
AT THE FAR END OF DOUBLE STACK THERE IS A LARGE STRUCTURE THAT HAS ALL FOUR WALLS STILL STANDING.
WHILE TAKING THIS PHOTO I WAS STANDING IN FRONT OF THE FOUR WALLED STRUCTURE LOOKING BACK AT THE AREA THAT CONTAINED THE HIGH STANDING WALL. NOTE THE LARGE LOG SUPPORTED BY TWO MASONRY PEDASTALS-- A VERY UNIQUE AND INTERESTING FEATURE.
I TOOK THIS PHOTO WHILE STANDING BETWEEN THE BACK WALL OF THE ALCOVE AND THE FOUR WALLED STRUCTURE.
IT IS OBVIOUS THAT THE FOUR WALLED STRUCTURE HAD OTHER WALLS/ROOMS AND WAS MUCH LARGER AT ONE TIME.

To the left of the high standing wall there was an area of what appeared to be storage structures, with little steps and toeholds built in.  Above this area there were a large number of hand pictographs in red, yellow, and white. 

IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY YOU CAN SEE HANDPRINTS TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH WALL, ABOVE THE STORAGE STRUCTURES BEYOND THE LOG SUPPORTED BY PETDESTALS.
THE HANDPRINTS ARE MORE APPARENT IN THIS CLOSER SHOT OF THE AREA ABOVE THE SMALL STORAGE STRUCTURES AGAINST THE BACK WALL.
I COUNT ALMOST THIRTY HANDPRINTS IN THIS PHOTO...RED, YELLOW, AND WHITE.
A LITTLE CLOSER SHOT SHOWING MORE DETAIL.
THIS IS THE LAST HANDPRINT PHOTO, I PROMISE!!

In addition to the masonry structures and handprint pictographs, there were numerous metates/grinding slicks at Double Stack, along with pottery sherds, lithics, and interesting chinking on the masonry work.

SEVERAL OF THE BOULDERS AT DOUBLE STACK HAD GRINDING SLICKS/METATES ON MORE THAN ONE SURFACE.
LOTS OF SURFACES WORKED AT DOUBLE STACK.
ONE OF THE PEDESTALS HAD A CANTILIVERED SURFACE THAT HAD A METATE ON IT. A VERY INTERESTING AND UNIQUE FEATURE THAT I HAVE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.
POTTERY SHERDS AND LITHICS AT DOUBLE STACK.
AN EXAMPLE OF SOME OF THE CHINKING TECHNIQUES AT DOUBLE STACK.

I had arrived at the Double Stack trailhead at 7:15 a.m. Sunday morning.  It took about three hours to hike to the site, explore, then hike back to my vehicle.  It was time well spent —  this site had a little bit of everything and was well worth the hike! For more of the photos that I took of the rock art at the site, look here.  But now it was time to see if I could find the Procession Panel.  I drove about 2.6 more miles north on Butler Wash Road (6.7 miles total from blacktop) to reach the procession trailhead.

 

The Procession Panel

 

I left the Procession trailhead about 10:30 a.m., headed for the site.  I knew it would be a long, slow climb up to the site, which sits high atop a majestic viewpoint  near the top of Comb Ridge.  My hike started slowly as it seemed to take an awful long time to navigate the wash and began the trek up the sometimes steep slickrock slope.  About half way up, I began to see dark rain clouds near the top of the ridge and my destination.  Fortunately, the rain stayed away and I eventually made my way to the top of Comb Ridge and the Procession Panel.  

NEGOTIATING THE LAST PART OF THE SANDY WASH PORTION OF THE HIKE AND FIXING TO BEGIN THE CLIMB UP THE SLICKROCK.
THE DARK RAINCLOUDS HAD ME WORRIED FOR A WHILE. TURNS OUT IT DID SNOW UP ABOVE NATURAL BRIDGES AND THE BEARS EARS, BUT THERE WAS NO RAIN ON COMB RIDGE.
IT SEEMED LIKE THE HIGHER I CLIMBED, THE STEEPER IT GOT!
I AM GLAD I HAD GOOD DIRECTIONS AND HAD TRUSTWORTHY WAYPOINTS LOADED INTO MY GPS, BECAUSE AT CERTAIN POINTS ALONG THIS HIKE NAVIGATION CAN BE A LITTLE TRICKY.
GETTING CLOSE! FROM WHERE I TOOK THIS PHOTO, I WAS ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES FROM THE SITE. i HAD TO CLIMB DOWN, THEN CLIMB BACK UP AND AROUND THE CORNER OF THAT OUTCROP.
I KNEW THE PROCESSION PANEL WOULD BE AROUND THE CORNER OF THIS CLIFF AREA. I ALSO KNEW THERE WERE A FEW PETROGLYPHS ALONG THIS CLIFF ON THE WAY TO THE MAIN PANEL.
A SMALL PANEL I SAW JUST BEFORE I FINALLY REACHED MY DESTINATION.
ANOTHER SMALL PANEL I SAW RIGHT BEFORE I TURNED THE CORNER TO THE PROCESSION PANEL.

The route finding and climbing was done.  I was about to make the final short climb, turn the corner, and experience the Procession Panel.  Would I be disappointed, or exhilarated??!

TO BE FACE TO FACE WITH THE PROCESSION PANEL WAS EXHILARATING INDEED! THIS PHOTO DOES NOT DO THIS MAGNIFICENT PANEL AND THE SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE JUSTICE.
LOOKING EAST PAST THE PROCESSION PANEL DOWN THE UPPER SLOPE OF COMB RIDGE.
HERE I AM IN FRONT OF THE RIGHT HAND PORTION OF THE PROCESSION PANEL.
YOU THINK I WAS GOING TO CLIMB ALL THAT WAY AND NOT TAKE A SELFIE?? NO WAY!!

The Procession Panel is magnificent in size, in scope, and in its placement on the landscape.  There are 179 figures in three lines marching toward a circle that some scholars think represents a Great Kiva.  A work of art this grand, and this important, takes up a lot of space.  It is difficult to photograph the Procession Panel because of its massive size and length.  The next three photos break the panel into three parts (left, center, and right) in an attempt to show you more detail in the panel.

THE LEFT PORTION OF THE PROCESSION PANEL.
THE CENTER PORTION OF THE PROCESSION PANEL.
THE RIGHT HAND PORTION OF THE PROCESSION PANEL.

I am prone to getting my hopes up, then being disappointed.  I was expecting to be disappointed by the Procession Panel.  I was not disappointed — in fact, this magnificent work of art exceeded my expectations in every possible regard.  I was walking on clouds of happiness as I descended Comb Ridge that day.  It will be a day that I will always cherish and that I will never forget!  For more photos of this wonderful site, look here. 

 

Split Level Ruin

Next up on the agenda was a visit to Split Level Ruin.  The trailhead was another 2.9 miles north of the Procession Panel Trailhead (for a total of 9.6 miles from black-top), so it didn’t take me long to find myself there, ready for yet another hike on Comb Ridge. I was really looking forward to visiting this site, and seeing the unique petroglyphs and pictographs that were reportedly to be found there. 

After hiking through the wash I followed a double track toward a grove of cottonwood trees and then dropped down into the canyon where the Split Level Ruin is located.  Not long after heading up the canyon there is a large boulder on the right that has a few red pictographs on it. 

THE RED HAND PICTOGRAPHS ON THE WAY TO THE SPLIT LEVEL RUIN.

After looking at and photographing the red hand pictographs, I continued up the canyon until I reached the Split Level Ruin site.  I took a trail up to the right that offered a good view of both levels of the site.  On the upper level, there is a large intact structure and a couple of partial walls, and some interesting green pictographs.  The ruins on the lower level are attached to and made part of several very large boulders. 

MY INITIAL VIEW OF THE SPLIT LEVEL RUIN. THE PARTIAL WALL TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN STRUCTURE ON THE UPPER LEVEL APPEARS TO BE IN FRONT OF A SEEP/SPRING. IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY, YOU CAN SEE THE LARGE GREEN PICTOGRAPHS TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN STRUCTURE.
A VIEW OF THE SPLIT LEVEL RUIN FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ALCOVE.

The upper level of ruins at the Split Level Site is not accessible, but several pictographs can be seen and photographed from below.  The most impressive are two large green and white pictograph that are closed circles, and resemble targets.  The third large pictograph has only green paint and looks like a half circle with with a smaller complete circle inside of it.  Besides these three large pictographs, there are two red handprints and five other small red elements nearby.

IN THIS PHOTO YOU CAN SEE ALL THREE GREEN/GREEN AND WHITE PICTOGRAPHS AND, IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY, THE RED HANDPRINTS AND FIVE RED ELEMENTS.
A CLOSER VIEW OF TWO OF THE LARGE GREEN & WHITE/GREEN PICTOGRAPHS AT THE SPLIT LEVEL RUIN SITE.
DETAIL OF THE OTHER LARGE PICTOGRAPH ON THE UPPER LEVEL OF THE SPLIT LEVEL RUIN SITE.
THE TWO RED HANDPRINTS AND FIVE RED ELEMENTS ON THE UPPER LEVEL.

The lower level of the Split Level Ruin Site has an amazing array of features to explore and experience.  First, there is an incredibly large number of metates/grinding slicks, bedrock mortars, and incised sharpening grooves.  It seems like every nook and cranny had these features. 

THIS LARGE BOULDER WITH METATES ON TOP ALSO HAD SOME PETROGLYPHS ON IT. AMAZING!
THIS SMALL BOULDER HAD METATES AND GRINDING SLICKS ON EVERY SURFACE.
ANOTHER BOULDER WITH AN AMAZING ASSORTMENT OF WORK SURFACES.
THIS AREA HAD A COUPLE OF DEEP BEDROCK GRINDING MORTARS ALONG WITH THE METATES/GRINDING SLICKS.
ANOTHER OF THE AMAZING BOULDERS THAT WERE COVERED WITH METATES AT THE SPLIT LEVEL SITE.

The Split Level site also had an interesting assortment of pictographs and petroglyphs, as well as miscellaneous artifacts, such as pottery sherds and corn cobs.  I enjoyed looking at all this site had to offer!  

THIS SMALL STRUCTURE HAD A NUMBER OF PICTOGRAPHS ON THE BACK WALL, MOSTLY HANDPRINTS.
PICTOGRAPHS ON THE BACK WALL OF THE SMALL ENCLOSED STRUCTURE. THERE WERE ALSO A FEW OLD PETROGLYPHS ON THIS SMALL WALL SECTION.
THIS D-STRETCH VIEW OF THE WALL AREA SHOWS SOME MORE OF THE DETAILS OF THE PICTOGRAPHS.
NOTE THE GREEN, YELLOW, AND RED PAINT ON THIS PART OF THE BACK WALL AT THE SITE.
THE BACK WALL CORRESPONDING WITH THE FOOTPRINT OUT FRONT APPEARS TO HAVE HAD PAINT PRESENT...THE REMAINS OF A MURAL PERHAPS?

Below are photos of some of the petroglyphs at the Split Level Site.  Some were on boulders within the footprint of the site while others were on the wall along the eastern approach to the site.  There was very little patina on the rock surfaces so the petroglyphs were difficult to see and photograph. 

ONE OF THE BOULDERS AT SPLIT LEVEL WITH PETROGLYPHS ON ONE FACE.
INTERESTING LITTLE PANEL ON THE EASTERN WALL APPROACH. THERE APPEAR TO BE SEVERAL FIGURES THAT ARE PREGNANT.
AN IMPRESSIVE ANTHROPOMORPH AT SPLIT LEVEL.
BEAR PAW CLAN SYMBOL?
DUCK ELEMENTS?
INTERESTING ANTHROPOMORPH WITH A TRIANGLE SHAPED BODY.
ANOTHER OF THE BOULDERS AT SPLIT LEVEL THAT ARE DECORATED WITH PETROGLYPHS.
A NICE PEICE OF CORRUGATED POTTERY AT SPLIT LEVEL.

I enjoyed the several hours I spent at the Split Level Ruin Site.  I am very happy that I took the time to visit this wonderful place!  From Split Level I headed to my last stop of the day, The Big Feet Petroglyph Panel.

 

Big Feet Petroglyph Panel

From Split Level I headed north to visit the Big Feet Panel, which is located near the top of Comb Ridge off of Posey’s Trail.  I had to make a little bit of a hike to get to this site, since the road to the trailhead was truly a four wheel drive affair.  The panel was interesting, and the landscape and view was spectacular!

THE TRAIL TO THE BIG FEET PANEL LEAVES POSEY'S TRAIL RIGHT BEFORE IT DROPS DOWN INTO THE AREA THAT IS BLASTED OUT OF COMB RIDGE.
THE BIG FEET PETROGLYPH PANEL IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER, OVERLOOKING WALNUT KNOB AND THE ENTRANCE TO ARCH CANYON FAR BELOW.
THE BIG FEET PANEL LOOKS OUT TO THE WEST FROM NEAR THE TOP OF COMB RIDGE.
A LITTLE DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE. MAIN PORTION OF THE BIG FEET PANEL.
THE BIG FEET PANEL GETS ITS NAME FROM THE PAIR OF LARGE SANDALS, AN ELEMENT THAT DOMINATES THE PANEL.

After exploring the area around the Big Feet Panel I hiked back to my car.  I drove the short distance to the Tower Ruin trailhead.  I walked to the point where you must make a steep descent down to the ruin and decided that I would need to save that site for another time.  The temperature was dropping and the wind had picked up and, quite frankly, it had been a very long day with lots of hiking, and I wasn’t sure I would have the daylight nor the energy to make the climb back up to my vehicle.  So I called it a day and headed to the comfort of my room at Recapture Lodge.

Monday, April 25, 2022 — One Last Day of Exploring Before Joining The Tse Kooh Rafting Trip

 

I had one last day before joining up with the folks at Tse Kooh Outfitters for our rafting trip.  I decided to spend the first part of my day visiting a couple of spots on the west side of Comb Ridge north of Highway 95, before heading up past the Bears Ears to try to visit the Doll House site.  I left Recapture Lodge around 6:30 a.m. and found myself at the trail head for my first site of the day, the Walnut Knob Petroglyph Site.  The weather was clear and brisk and in no time I had climbed up to the site.  Walnut Knob is a beautiful spot, with several interesting petroglyph panels that I spent about an hour and a half exploring.  

WALNUT KNOB SITS HIGH UP ON THE SLICKROCK OVERLOOKING COMB WASH AND THE WEST SIDE OF COMB RIDGE.
MOST OF THE PETROGLYPHS AT WALNUT KNOB ARE ON THE BACK SIDE OF THIS LARGE ROCK FORMATION. THERE ARE A FEW SMALL PANELS ON THE SURROUNDING BOULDERS AS WELL.
THE TWO MAIN PANELS AT WALNUT KNOB, EACH OF WHICH PROMINENTLY FEATURE A SHEILD ELEMENT.
A LITTLE CLOSER VIEW OF THE LEFT PANEL.
A CLOSER VIEW OF THE RIGHT PANEL.
THIS INTERESTING LITTLE PANEL WAS ON A NEARBY BOULDER.
YOURS TRULY AT WALNUT KNOB.

After finishing up at Walnut Knob, I decided to pay a quick visit to the ruin near the head of Arch Canyon, since it was so close by.  So I headed due north across the slickrock and in short order I made it to the south rim of Arch Canyon.  From the rim, I could see the Arch Canyon ruin along the north wall of the canyon. 

MY VIEW OF WALNUT KNOB AS I HEADED NORTH ACROSS THE SLICKROCK TOWARD THE RIM OF ARCH CANYON.
IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY YOU CAN SEE THE ARCH CANYON RUINS IN THE UPPER RIGHT HAND PART OF THIS PHOTO THAT I TOOK WHEN I REACHED THE RIM.

As I walked along the rim toward the mouth of Arch Canyon I got a better view of the ruin.  I also could see across the mouth of Arch Canyon over to Comb Ridge and the canyon that Posey’s Trail takes as it comes down from the ridge (the area I had been yesterday evening). 

LOOKING BEYOND THE MOUTH OF ARCH CANYON TO THE AREA OF COMB RIDGE WHERE THE BIG FEET PANEL IS LOCATED.

Once I got near the mouth of Arch Canyon, I found a path down from the rim and began to make my way to the ruin.  After crossing the creek a few times (I was surprised at how much water was in the canyon) I made it to the ruin.  There are just a few walls standing, but there are some nice petroglyphs and a few pictographs at the site.

CREEK AND BLM INFORMATIONAL KIOSK NEAR THE MOUTH OF ARCH CANYON.
IT DIDN'T TAKE LONG TO REACH THE SITE.
THE WEST END OF THE ARCH CANYON RUIN.
ONE OF THE FIRST LITTLE PANELS I SAW AT THE ARCH CANYON RUIN. THE HANDS WERE PARTICULARLY UNIQUE.
A CLOSE-UP OF THE LOWER HANDPRINT SHOWS SOME WONDERFUL DETAILS.
THESE SPIRALS AND GEOMETRICS STAND OUT PRETTY WELL DESPITE THE LACK OF PATINATION ON THE WALL SURFACE.
A SHOT WITH A PART OF THE NEARBY WALL FOR CONTEXT.
ANOTHER NICE PANEL THAT FEATURES SOME PROMINENT SPIRALS.
THESE BLACK PICTOGRAPHS APPEAR TO BE BUFFALO.
ONE FINAL PICTURE OF THE ARCH CANYON, FROM THE EAST END OF THE SITE.

After finishing up at Arch Canyon I headed toward Natural Bridges National Monument and the road that I hoped would take me to the trailhead for “The Dollhouse”.  This ruin has been on my radar for a long time, but it requires an extremely long drive up to and beyond the Bears Ears, so I had never budgeted the time to try to visit.   But, alas, it was not to be.  The road was fine until I got up to the higher elevations past the Bears Ears.  Then I started seeing a little snow by the side of the road and the road was starting to have wet, slick areas that were a little disconcerting.  I knew that there would be some steep drop-offs as I got closer to the Doll House Site, and I was worried about being able to negotiate these areas if the road got much worse.  I began seeing a lot more snow near the road and I was encountering more and more slick spots.  Eventually, I found myself at a point in the road where it was completely covered with wet, slushy snow and I knew it was too dangerous to proceed under these conditions in this remote area. 

THE ROAD WAS FINE AS I HEADED UP TOWARD THE ICONIC BEARS EARS.
THE ROAD PASSED RIGHT BETWEEN THE BEARS EARS. I TOOK THIS PHOTO ON THE BACK SIDE. THE ROAD CONTINUED TO GAIN ELEVATION PAST THE BEARS EARS.
I SOON BEGAN TO SEE MORE AND MORE SNOW, AND MORE WET SPOTS ON THE ROAD THAT WERE VERY, VERY SLICK.
TIME TO TURN AROUND! IT MADE NO SENSE TO RISK SLIDING OFF THE ROAD OR GETTING STUCK THIS FAR FROM HELP OR CELL SERVICE.

On the drive back down from the Bears Ears and my aborted attempt to reach The Doll House, I decided to stop in at Natural Bridges National Monument.  Originally I had planned to spend at least a full day trying to find some sites that have eluded me over the years (The Remnant Panel, The Shoe, The Red Bear, and the Big Foot Ruins), but I had to cut those items from my itinerary.  I stopped at the visitor’s center and checked in.  I then drove on the loop to the Horse Collar Ruin overlook where I walked out to the canyon edge and took a few photos of the ruin from above.  I had visited the ruin several times by hiking to it from the canyon floor, but had never taken any pictures from up high on the overlook. 

Natural Bridges is one of my favorite areas on Cedar Mesa-- a great little park!
ONE OF THE PHOTOS I TOOK FROM THE OVERLOOK. YOU CAN SEE THE NAMESAKE HORSE COLLAR RUIN WITH THE SQUARE KIVA TO THE LEFT.
A CLOSER SHOT OF THE HORSECOLLAR RUIN, TAKEN FROM THE OVERLOOK.

After visiting the Horse Collar Ruin Overlook I drove on down to the Owachomo Bridge Trailhead.  I knew I didn’t have the time (or energy, for that matter) to take a long hike, but I thought I knew the right trail to take me to the Big Foot Ruin, which is supposedly not far from Owachomo Bridge.  I guess I was wrong, because the trail I took never looked right and I did not find the ruin I was looking for.  I hadn’t bothered to prepare an offline GPS map, so rather than wander around in the hot canyon, I decided to call it a day. Maybe next time Bigfoot!

A PHOTO I TOOK FOR OWACHOMO BRIDGE, AS I WANDERED AROUND LOOKING FOR THE BIG FOOT RUIN.

I had arranged to meet Cody Little of Tsé Kooh Outfitters early that evening at his shop in Bluff to pick up my dry bags.  So on the way home from Natural Bridges I stopped by and introduced myself and got my dry bags so I could pack that night for the rafting trip that lay ahead.  After a steak at the Cottonwood Steakhouse, I headed back to the Recapture Lodge to pack up my gear and get a good nights sleep.  

IT IS HARD TO MISS TSE KOOH'S BRIGHTLY COLORED SHOP, LOCATED ON THE MAIN DRAG IN BLUFF.
THE COTTONWOOD STEAKHOUSE IN BLUFF IS A POPULAR PLACE TO EAT...NOTE THE SIGN THAT SAYS "LOCALS TABLE".

Well, that is the end of Part Two of my Spring 2022 Rock Art Trip.  Part Three covers the four days I spent with Tsé Kooh Outfitters rafting and hiking along the San Juan River.  To go directly to Part Three, click the button below.

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