Admiring Auldbrass With The Millers
Prologue…
Quite some time ago, while perusing a Frank Lloyd Wright Facebook group post, I first became aware of Auldbrass. A little research revealed that Auldbrass was a plantation in South Carolina that was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. I quickly decided that I would love to visit Auldbrass some day. Further research revealed that the general public was allowed to visit one weekend every other year, during a fundraiser hosted by the owner, Hollywood Producer Joel Silver. The fundraiser benefits South Carolina’s Open Land Trust, and that organization handles tickets and event logistics for the once-every-other-year Auldbrass tours. When our good friends Brady and Patti Miller suggested that it was time to get together again, I floated the idea of an Auldbrass visit. The last time we had seen Brady and Patti in person was January of 2019, when we met in Las Vegas and spent a few days catching up. Brady and Patti were open to the idea of a visit to Auldbrass, so we set about planning a little trip. This blog post is my attempt to tell you about our trip and our visit to Auldbrass.
Getting There…
Brady and Patti suggested that we spend a couple of days at their home in Marietta, Georgia, then drive to Hilton Head Island and spend several days there around the time of the Auldbrass Tours. That is exactly what we did. Dorothy and I left the mudhole (now with goats grazing in the lakebed), formerly known as Lake McQueeney, on the morning of Sunday, October 29, 2023. We spent the night in Brandon, Mississippi (just east of Jackson) and continued our drive the next morning. We arrived at the Miller’s home in Marietta, Georgia, Monday afternoon, October 30, 2023. Brady and Patti had done an incredible amount of work on their home since our last visit, including a kitchen remodel, adding a covered patio to the rear of their home, and monumental landscaping and drainage work. Their home was so inviting and beautiful! Dorothy and I finally made good on our promise to bring them a concrete statue of St. Francis that had once stood in my sister Molly’s garden. That evening, they hosted a cook-out, and all of their children and grandchildren were there. It was so good to see everyone and catch up. The highlight of the evening was the announcement by Rebecca (Brady and Patti’s youngest daughter) that she was expecting — what a joyful occasion we were blessed to be part of!
I was up early Tuesday morning, October 31, 2023, for a walk along the Chattahoochee River boardwalk at nearby Azalea Park. We met Brady’s sister Patricia and her husband Jerry for lunch, and it was so good to visit with them. We had a laid-back day, filled with lots of laughter (some of which was prompted by Brady hiding from Halloween trick or treaters) and reminiscing about good times from the past.
On to Hilton Head…
On Wednesday morning, November 1, 2023, we drove to Hilton Head and checked into our condo at the Sea Pines Resort, where we would spend the next three nights. Our condo was spacious and comfortable, just steps away from the iconic Harbour Town Lighthouse and Harbour Town Golf Links. We are grateful for, and most appreciative of, Brady and Patti’s generosity in finding and paying for our accomodations. Thank you Brady and Patti! (Brady said I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that Dorothy and I paid for the Auldbrass tickets and several of the meals we enjoyed together. But I am most confident that the trip balance sheet was heavily weighted in favor of Brady and Patti — a testament to their generosity!) After we got settled in, Brady and I took a walk around the harbor and on the seventeenth and eighteenth holes of the Harbour Town Golf Links. What a beautiful place and a beautiful evening stroll! We capped off the day’s activities by enjoying the sunset and a wonderful dinner at the Quarterdeck restuarant.
Our Visit to Auldbrass Plantation…
We left Hilton Head a little after seven a.m. on Thursday, November 2, 2023, and made the scenic drive to the Auldbrass Plantation. We arrived at the property a little after eight a.m., and easily found a parking space and checked in at a tent set up just inside the front gate of Auldbrass. When I purchased our tickets for the tour, I elected for the earliest tour time on the first day of the event, thinking it might be a little less crowded. Turns out I was right, as we were members of the first group to tour the main house. I was a little disappointed that we only got to see the inside of the living room of the main house and that no photos were allowed inside or allowed to be taken from the outside through windows or open doors. While we were free to roam the grounds around the main house after the guided tour, we could only see the bedrooms of the main house and the many ancillary structures (i.e., guest rooms, Joel Sliver’s Office, Archives, and other assorted goodies) from the outside, often having to look through windows. There was much we did not see, such as the caretakers house, the guest cottages, the river house and dock, and the staff house. There were docents stationed throughout the property to make sure the no-inside-photos policy was strictly enforced. Our docent for the tour was working off of cue cards, and did not appear to have any independent or special knowledge of Frank Lloyd Wright, Auldbrass, or Joel Silver’s efforts to restore and complete Wright’s vision for the property. Of course, I was well aware of the restrictions and shortcomings ahead of time, so I have little reason to complain. Nonetheless, I thoroughly enjoyed the time we spent at Auldbrass. After the guided tour of the living area of the main house, we spent several hours walking around the property as well as listening to some of the lectures that were held near the main house. Some of the docents stationed around the property also had additional information about the area or structure at which they were stationed. Below are a few of the photos I took during our visit. For a more comprehensive gallery of my photos, look here. Also, please note that the two interior photos below were taken by Anthony Peres and posted on the South Carolina Lowcountry website. While my photos do not do this beautiful place justice, I hope you find them enjoyable!
What Is “Auldbrass”? The Origin Of A Name
What in the world is “Auldbrass”? It is a plantation in South Carolina designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. How did it get that name? The term “Brass” was often used in southern plantation inventories to reflect slaves who had a distinctive color by virtue of being part American Indian. The term “Old Brass” would indicate a slave over 60 years of age who was no longer able to work. One such person built a shack and lived at a landing on the Combahee River (on what would become Aulbrass Plantation propery) and that location became known as “Old Brass Landing”. Thus the preliminary drawings prepared by Wright in July of 1939 identified the project as “Oldbrass”. At some point Wright penciled in “Auld” for “Old”, thereby inventing the name Auldbrass.
A Tale of Two Cars
(From an information placard at Auldbrass)
According to lore, Frank Lloyd Wright was approached by the Ford Motor Company in the late 1930s with a revolutionary idea in product placement. Ford was interested in creating an advertising campaign stating that the twenty most prestigious Americans all drove Ford Motor Cars. Frank Lloyd Wright was on that list. The only way Ford could guarantee that all these twenty Americans were driving a Ford Motor Car was to provide each and every one of them with a brand new car, all manufactured by Ford. Mr. Wright’s response was understandable — of course he would accept the offer. But, since he had two residences, he would require two automobiles. When Ford was contronted with this proposal, their reaction was simple: “That’s not the deal”. Wright’s response was also equally simple: “Then I’m not interested.” When Ford finally agreed to the two-car option, Wright responded by saying “Okay, here’s the color I want you to paint the cars.”
Wright was enamored with the Lincoln Continental. He reportedly stated that it was the most beautiful American car ever built, but that was probably a by-product of this advertising campaign. The 1940 Cabriolet (that Ford gave to FLW) was only the 16th one built and completed in December 1939. It was the first Continental to be delivered through the Milwaukee Wholesale branch. It was damaged early in its life by one of Mr. Wrights’s associates when it rolled over on a foggyWisconsin night. When he realized the cost of replacing the convertible top and the damaged windshield, Wright decided he could better redesign the car anyway. The car was customized at Kayser Motors in Madison, Wisconsin, and Wright did all those things he was known for, even eliminating the rear window completely (“I’m only interested in where I’m going, not where I’ve been”), while adding two silly half-round opera windows on the sides and taking out the roof over the driver completely. The second car — the 1941 Coupe — was pretty much stock, with a couple of Wright adjustments. Both cars were painted the same Cherokee Red color, and have been restored to the way they were when Wright owned them.
Are you bored yet?! Don’t worry, I only have a few more photos of Auldbrass that I want you to see. The photos I have posted above were all taken in the immediate vicinity of the main house, while the photos below were taken while we roamed the grounds and the out-buildings after our guided tour. And don’t forget, a more complete gallery of my Auldbrass photos can be found here.
I hated to leave Auldbrass. If I had unfettered access to that beautiful place, I could explore Frank Lloyd Wright’s genius for days. But I am supremely grateful I got to spend time there at all. I am also most grateful to my wife Dorothy and our friends Brady and Patti Miller for indulging my passion for all things Frank Lloyd Wright. I hope to return to Auldbrass some day. I plan to keep track of Joel Silver’s efforts to build more of the structures (like the large guest house that will be attached to the main house by the promenade along the swimming pool) that were designed by Wright but never built. I also plan to stay in touch with the South Carolina Land Trust folks, and do my best to find out about other Auldbrass opportunities may arise in the future.
We left Auldbrass and stopped at a local cafe for lunch on the way back to Hilton Head and Sea Pines Resort. While the girls rested that afternoon, Brady and I made an excursion to find a t-shirt for little J.D. and some ice cream for us grown-up boys. That night, we had another wonderful seafood dinner at the Quarterdeck. I could eat at that place every night!
The next day, Friday, November 3, 2023, was spent exploring around Sea Pines Resort. We paid a visit to the historical exhibits at the very impressive Harbour Town Golf links clubhouse, took a short stroll by the beach, had lunch at the Salty Dog, and explored for several hours at the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. Our day concluded with pizza at our condo. Here are some photos post-Audbrass.
The Sea Pines Forest Preserve was beautiful. During our time there, we saw a fair number of birds. Our best looks involved a female/immature male Anhinga. Brady snuck up on it and got an amazing video — as Brady got closer and closer, the bird began to exhibit threat displays. It was quite entertaining as you can see in Brady’s video below.
Brady’s Anhinga Video….
Going Home…
We said our goodbyes to Brady and Patti on Saturday morning, November 4, 2023, and headed for home. That day, we drove from Hilton Head to Mandeville, Louisiana (north of New Orleans) where we spent the night. We got up Sunday morning and drove to Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, where we stopped for a visit with Dorothy’s cousin, Dale McCleary. We had lunch and a very nice visit with Dale — it was great to see him and to catch up on what was going on in his life. We were sorry that his wife, Cindi was out of town.
After our visit with Dale McCleary, we drove the short distance to Lafayette and dropped in on Dorothy’s sweet cousin, Belle McKinney. Despite her ongoing health issues, Belle is always upbeat, with a smile on her face. After a nice visit with her, we headed west toward home, arriving back at the lake a little before 10 p.m. that Sunday evening. It was good to be home!
Epilogue…
Dorothy and I are most grateful that we have the financial resources and good health to make trips like this. And for the supreme blessing of our friendship with Brady and Patti Miller. Thank you Brady and Patti for making this trip possible and for your friendship and love over these many years. We love you! Tom and Dorothy McCoppin, November 16, 2023.
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