Part Three
Lodges and Birds of the Pantanal
Prologue…
Welcome to Part Three of my blog about my August 2023 trip to Brazil with a Jeff Parker tour. Part One of my blog covers the first six days (August 15-20, 2023) of my trip which were spent in the Amazon Basin region of Brazil in search of Harpy Eagles. In Part Two I write about the day I spent on my own exploring parks, museums, and churches in Cuiabá. This blog covers the time we spent at two of the Southwild lodges in the Pantanal. We visited Fazenda Santa Tereza on the way down to the Jaguar Flotel (August 22-23, 2023) while we visited Fazenda Pouso Alegre on our return trip to Cuiabá (August 29-31, 2023), after five days at the Jaguar Flotel. I hope you enjoy reading about our experiences at these two beautiful lodges in the Pantanal!
A Couple of Days at Fazenda Santa Tereza Lodge (Tuesday August 22, 2023 – Thursday, August 24, 2023)
Into the Pantanal on the Transpantaneira Highway…
We left Cuiabá on Tuesday morning, headed southwest into the Pantanal Region of Brazil by way of the legendary Transpantaneira “Highway” (MT-060). Our group was excited to begin this new chapter of our Brazilian trip. The Transpantaneira is not a highway in the traditional American sense, but rather a gravel/caliche road with many, many small wooden bridges along the way down to where it ends at Porto Jofre. While dusty, and a little rough (especially at the bridges) it is not an extremely bad road– in my opinion it was better than the roads in the Amazon Basin west of Alta Floresta that we had traveled the week before. Our first stop after we got out of Cuiabá was at a grocery store in the first small town that we came to. We stocked up on snacks and cokes and continued on our way. It was not long before we began to see lots of birds and wildlife along the road. We were in no hurry so we made lots of stops to watch and photograph the birds and wildlife. Perhaps the most impressive thing I saw that morning was the large flock of Roseate Spoonbills– what a beautiful sight to watch them perch and fly, perch and fly! On the way to Southwild’s Santa Tereza Lodge I met, and photographed, seven new species of birds that were new to me, as follows: Red-legged Seriema, Savanna Hawk, Greater Rhea, Snail Kite, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Wood Stork, and Jabiru. We also saw Caiman, Coatis, and Marsh Deer along the way. It was an incredible morning, and I was blown away at the number and diversity of birds that we saw.
We Arrive at Southwild’s Santa Tereza Lodge…
Right around noon we turned off of the Transpantaneira and headed west toward Fazenda Santa Tereza. Upon arrival we were welcomed by Lucy, the facility manager, and again experienced the warm hospitality that I came to associate with each Southwild facility we stayed at. We settled into our rooms and had a bite of lunch. By the way, I believe this was by far the nicest lodge we stayed at. The rooms and common areas were comfortable and immaculate. It was a real pleasure to spend time at this beautiful place. After lunch I walked around the area near the lodge for a couple of hours, where there are several feeders. Even during the heat of the day, I saw a lot of birds, including four species that were new to me, as follows: Yellow-billed Cardinal, Red-crested Cardinal, Purplish Jay, and Spot-breasted Woodpecker.
We Wind Up Our First Day At Santa Tereza With a Boatride and an Ocelot…
About 3:00 p.m. on our first day at Santa Tereza Lodge we headed out for a boatride on the Rio Sararé. We enjoyed several hours of cruising north of the Lodge on the river. The highlights of my afternoon on the river included watching a Howler Monkey and seeing three new species of birds: a Striated Heron, several Black-collared Hawks, and a flock of Monk Parakeets. We arrived back at the lodge just before dusk and walked over to the Ocelot hide, where we met and watched “Anna” the Ocelot. She showed up right on time and was a real pleasure to watch!
A Relaxing Day at Santa Tereza Lodge Including A Jabiru Nest, More Time on the River, and Another Visit With Anna the Ocelot (Wednesday, August 23, 2023)…
I was up early and walked over to climb the tower near the Jabiru nest. I enjoyed watching the two occupants working on the nest and having an early morning tryst. Beautiful and majestic birds!
We took two boat rides on this day, one in the morning and one in the late afternoon. I enjoyed the bird watching and the photo opportunities, especially of birds in flight. I took a number of photos of Hawks, Kingfishers, and Herons swooping down to snatch fish from the river. In between boat rides I enjoyed roaming the grounds at Santa Tereza, with productive results. Often, Liko or Jeff would see me out walking around and quietly join me to help me spot and identify birds. I am most grateful for their help! On this day I met and photogrpahed nine new species, as follows: Grayish Baywing, Wattled Jacana, Cattle Tyrant, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Blue-throated Piping-Guan, Glittering-throated Emerald, Crested Oropendola, Orange-backed Troupial, and Yellow-rumped Cacique. We also got to watch a couple of Capybaras and an entertaining group of Black-tailed Marmosets. I am grateful that my photography skills have progressed enough that I can get some passable photos of these magnificent birds and animals. And I need to thank Jeff Parker for all his help. Today, for example, he noticed me shooting a Savanna Hawk that was severely backlit. He patiently waited for me to ask for help, then, very patiently offerred suggestions to help me deal with the situation. Throughout this trip I gained an admiration of his low key teaching style– it was perfect for this old man!
We ended our day with another visit to the Ocelot viewing area. Once again Anna showed up and was very cooperative. On this visit I took my tripod, hoping for some sharper pictures in the low light at the site. I will let you be the judge as to whether I was successful or not. No captions on these pictures– wanted to let Anna’s beauty speak for itself!
This concludes our time at the Santa Tereza Lodge. It you want to continue reading about my trip in the proper time sequence (ie our arrival and time spent at the Jaguar Flotel), click here to go directly to Part 4 of my blog. Or, scroll on down and read about our stay at Fazenda Pouso Alegre Lodge the last two days of our trip.
Brazilian Trip Bird Count
9 New Birds, Increasing My Life List Total
From 479 to 488 (as of 8-23-23)
We Conclude Our Visit to The Pantanal With a Couple of Days at Fazenda Pouso Alegre Lodge (Tuesday August 29, 2023 – Thursday, August 31, 2023)
We Arrive at Southwild’s Pouso Alegre Lodge…
We left the Jaguar Flotel at 7:00 a.m. on Tuesday, August 29, 2023, and enjoyed one last boat ride to Porto Jofre. Along the way we saw a nice group of Black Skimmers and got a good look at a Bat Falcon. Our guide Liko spotted a False Water Cobra and we stopped to take a closer look.
After landing at Porto Jofre we transferred our luggage to our van, he headed north on The Transpantaneira Highway, destined for Fazenda Pouso Alegre, where I would spend my last two nights in Brazil. We saw lots of birds and wildlife, but nothing new. After a couple of hours, we passed the turn-off to Santa Tereza, where we had spent two nights on the way down to the Jaguar Flotel. A little before 11:00 a.m. we turned off the “highway” onto to the road that led us to our home for the next two nights.
We arrived at Pouso Alegre Lodge a little after 11:00 a.m. and were assigned our room. I enjoyed this place, although it was not as nice, nor as refined, as the Santa Tereza Lodge. The stars at this attraction were the birding area nestled among the cabins, and the treks to ponds around the fazenda on open air safari trucks. I was assigned room number 23 and found it fine for my needs.
After getting settled into my room, I started to head over to the dining hall for lunch. As I stepped outside, I noticed movement in the tree that was just outside of my room. Closer inspection revealed a couple of Hooded Capuchin monkeys, one adult and one small juvenile. They were such fun to watch!
After lunch I spent a little time wandering around the grounds of the lodge. Right outside the dining hall I spotted a Great Rufous Woodcreeper, which was a new bird for me. In short order I found another new bird, a pair of Grayish Baywings. There were lots of Coati wandering around the grounds, including a couple that were taking a nap in a tree. While the feeders were being lightly visited, I saw no new birds, just the usual suspects.
Around three p.m. we loaded up into one of the open air safari trucks and began making our way to the large pond that attracts a lot of wildlife. On the way, we passed by a small pond that had a Crab Eating Fox lounging nearby.
We made it to the big pond a little before 4:00 p.m. and parked, positioning our open air vehicle so we would all have a good view of the pond. And what a view it was. We watched as an amazing array of birds and wildlife visited the pond. When it came to the birds that visited, the Toco Toucans were the stars of the show. This was a new bird for me, and I was delighted to watch several pairs of them during the time we were at the pond. I also saw two other new birds: a Pale-vented Pigeon and a Chestnut-bellied Guan. We saw a number of Coatis, a Tapir, and several more Crab Eating Foxes. The Foxes showed up just before dark.
Here are a few photos of the wildlife at the pond. It was an amazing evening and at times the pond seemed like grand central station!
Spending Our Last Full Day In Brazil at Pouso Alegre Lodge, Wednesday, August 30, 2023…
Our last full day in Brazil was spent entirely at Fazenda Pouso Alegre. I was up at the crack of dawn looking for a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl that Liko told me was often seen near the main lodge buildings. With his help, we found the owl and I enjoyed watching him. It was also good practice, since the early morning light was quite challenging.
The rest of the day was laid back bird watching at its best. I spent a considerable amount of time at the Lodge main feeding area. While at the feeder, I was delighted to get some closer looks at the Toco Toucan, as well as a Chestnut-eared Aracari, and a number of other beautiful birds.
I spent a lot of time at the main bird feeding area, which, as you can see in the video I posted below, was quite active, attracting a lot of birds. I also spent considerable time stalking a hawk that I spotted while staking out the small pond in the open field across from the lodge. And, of course, the monkeys were very entertaining! I also enjoyed watching a pair of beautiful Tourquoise-fronted Parrots during one of my walks around the compound.
We finished out the day with a ride over to the large pond in one of the open safari trucks. The pond was not quite as active as it was the day before, but there was still plenty of action. I was happy that I got to do some “birds in flight” practice on some of the Toucans that were hanging around the pond!
A Few Videos From Pouso Alegre Lodge…
I didn’t take many videos while in Brazil, mainly because my cell phone camera does not handle distance very well and produces very grainy videos at distance. But the feeding area and the grounds at the main Lodge at Pouso Alegre, lend themselves to videos taken at a fairly close distance. I took this first video at the main feeding area at the Lodge, in the hopes it will give you some idea of the bird (and Coati!) activity we experienced…
The morning of Thursday, August 31, 2023, we spent a little time at the feeders and walking the grounds of Pouso Alegre before departing mid-morning for Cuiabá and the airport. I really enjoyed our stay at this ranch and lodge, and it was a relaxing way to wind down our trip. In reviewing my notes and photos, I determined that I met a total of 18 new bird species at Pouso Alegre. Here are the 13 species I met on August 30 and 31, 2023: Ruddy Ground Dove, Scaled Dove, Bluish-gray Salator, Saffron Finch, Buff-necked Ibis, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Great Black Hawk, Yellow-collared Macaw, Undulated Tinamou, Turquoise-fronted Parrot, Giant Cowbird, Screaming Cowbird, and Shiny Cowbird.
This concludes Part 3 of my Brazilian trip blog. To see Part Four, which covers our efforts to find Jaguar in the wild and the time I spent on the Jaguar Flotel, look here.
Brazilian Trip Bird Count
19 New Birds, Increasing My Life List
Total From 488 to 507
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