ENJOYING THE HIKE THROUGH THE AGRICULTURAL TERRACES AT PISAC.

My Peruvian Adventure Part 3 —  Warming Up For The Inca Trail

Part 3 Prologue…

After saying goodbye to Odon and his family I checked into the Monastario Hotel on the early afternoon of Wednesday, April 12, 2017 and, in short order met my Wilderness Travel guide Miguel Pasci.  Miguel was a wonderful guide and I came to admire his knowledge of Peruvian archaeology and culture, and his willingness to share it in a patient and humble manner.  Miguel had called me one evening while I was staying at the Rumi Punku and introduced himself, and asked if there was anything he could do for me prior to the start of our tour.  I think he was surprized and perhaps a little miffed, or slighted, when I told him the sites I had already visited and the sites I planned to visit prior to meeting up with him and the other members of our group.  I explained to him that once the Wilderness Travel people had my money, they didn’t seem interested at all in helping me plan for the days I would be in Peru on my own, so I did my own research and made my own arrangements (with the Rumi Punku and Kondor Path).  Quite the gentleman, Miguel apologized and emphasized that I needed anything, he would be available to help me in any way he could.

The first disappointment I encountered with Wilderness Tours was this seeming reluctance to help me with the time I would be in Peru prior to my tour with them.  I remember calling to discuss this part of my trip with them (once I had decided to go to Cusco early) and it took them several days to call me back.  The young lady offerred what I considered a lame excuse —  she was busy arranging another tour to Costa Rica (which, by the way, was not nearly as expensive as the tour I paid them for).   She also really didn’t seem interested in helping me.  I had hoped to correspond with the other members of my group prior to the trip and I asked Wilderness to give them my email address and let them know of my desire to introduce myself  prior to the trip.  They refused.  While I am on the subject of my disappointments with Wilderness Travel, I want to mention one more thing.  I paid a premium price for what was represented to be a premium experience on the Inca Trail.  Several items that were in their itinerary, brochures, and told to me verbally did not happen as they represented.  The first diappointment was not being met by anyone at the Lima airport upon my arrival in Peru.  While I managed to make my next flight on my own, it was chaotic and hectic and it would have been nice to have someone to help me, as they promised.  While our guide Miguel was certainly a cut above, other things (one campsite in particular) were, in my opinion, not as advertised.  Bottom line, I doubt I will take another trip with Wilderness Travel after my experience with them in Peru.

This blog post begins on the afternoon of Wednesday, April 12, 2017, as I met up with Miguel and the others in our tour group at Hotel Monasterio and ends as we are at our first camp site at the start of hiking the Inca Trail on the morning of Friday April 15, 2017.   Here we go!


Wednesday, April 12, 2017 —  Saqsayhuaman and The Coricancha

After saying my goodbyes to Odon and his family, I deposited my luggage at Hotel Monasterio (pending check-in) and headed to a nearby cafe for a bite of lunch.  After lunch I returned to the hotel, where  I met up with our guide Miguel, and the three couples that made up our group.  One couple was from Forth Worth,  another from California, and one from Washington state.  They were all very nice people and I enjoyed my time with them.  After introductions, we checked into our rooms then headed over to the huge military and religious complex known as Saqsayhuaman.  The day before Odon had taken me to a “non-tourist” part of the complex, while Miguel took us to the more commonly visited tourist areas of the ruins.  The Inca masonry at this complex was stunning, with many large, perfectly fitted stones.  It was a beautiful place and a beautiful afternoon for a walk in the Andes!

MIGUEL HAD A WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THE SITES WE VISITED. HERE HE IS AS WE ENTERED SAQSAYHUAMAN. THE CITY OF CUSCO WAS LAID OUT IN THE SHAPE OF A PUMA AND THIS GREAT FORTRESS FORMED ITS HEAD.
SAQSAYHUAMAN OVERLOOKS CUSCO, AND ITS MONUMENTAL REMAINS WERE IMPRESSIVE INDEED.
THE HEAD OF THE PUMA...
AN ENTRY GATE AT THE COMPLEX.
SOME OF THE STONES AT SAQSAYHUAMAN ARE MASSIVE. IT IS AMAZING TO SEE HOW EXPERTLY THEY FIT TOGETHER.
AMAZING TO THINK THAT A CULTURE WITHOUT MODERN MACHINERY COULD SHAPE AND MOVE SUCH MASSIVE BLOCKS OF STONE.
ONE LAST PHOTO OF THE RUINS AT SAQSAYHUAMAN.

After a pleasant walk at the Ruins, he headed over to the Coricancha, which was the most important religious temple of Cusco.  It was built in 1438 by Manco Capac and was devoted to the Sun.  The Spanish destroyed most of the original complex while looting the massive amount of gold in the structures, and built the Santo Domingo Convent over its remains in 1534.  Coricancha was the place where the most powerful of the Incas could enter and pay tribute to their chief god, the sun.  It was a holy place that only a few privileged could enter.  Only a few of the original walls and foundation of the Coricancha remain and when you visit today you see a mixture of the ancient Inca walls with the Spanish colonial architecture.  I enjoyed walking around this special place!

THIS PART OF THE CORICANCHA HAS THE REMAINS OF A BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL CURVED WALL.
VIEW FROM BEHIND A PORTION OF THE CURVED WALL SHOWN IN THE PICTURE ABOVE. THE STONE WORK AT CORICANCHA IS SOME OF THE MOST INTRICATE AND PRECISE INCA MASONRY WORK YOU WILL SEE ANYWHERE.
ANOTHER PART OF AN ORIGINAL EXTERIOR WALL AT CORICANCHA. THIS SECTION HAS BEEN DAMAGED, BUT STILL VERY IMPRESSIVE.
A BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL INCA WALL ON THE INSIDE OF THE CORICANCHA.
AN INTERESTING FUSION OF THE OLD AND THE NEW AT CORICANCHA.
ONE OF MANY EXAMPLES OF INCAN STONE CRAFTMANSHIP ON DISPLAY AT CORICANCHA.
AN EXAMPLE OF THE GOLD THAT LITERALLY COVERED THE WALLS AT THE CORICANCHA TEMPLES. ALMOST ALL OF THE GOLD WAS REMOVED AND STOLEN BY THE SPANISH BEFORE THEY DESTROYED THE TEMPLES AND BUILT THE CONVENT.
ORIGINALLY THE CORICANCHA HAD FOUR ELABORATE FOUNTAINS/SPRINGS. THE ONLY ONE THAT REMAINS IS IN THE CENTER OF THE MAIN COURTYARD AT THE CONVENT (THE HEXAGONAL STONE STRUCTURE).

Thursday, April 13, 2017 —  Awana Kancha Farm, a Return To Pisac, and Hotel Pakaritampu in Ollantaytambo


Our first full day together was primarily a warm up hike at Pisac.  On the drive to Pisac, we stopped off at Awana Kancha, a farm that showcases South American camelids (alpacas, llamas, vicuñas, and guanacos).  The farm also had some ancillary exhibits, like a weaving demonstration.  We spent a short time at the farm, and enjoyed feeding some of the animals. 

ONE OF THE ANIMALS THAT WE WATCHED AND FED AT AWANA KANCHA FARM.
THE ANIMALS AT AWANA KANCHA WERE VERY COMFORTABLE AROUND PEOPLE.
MIGUEL, DISCUSSING THE CONDOR EXHIBIT AT AWANA KANCHA.
WEAVING DEMONSTRATION AT AWANA KANCHA. THE WEAVERS I MET WITH ODON AT CHINCERO WERE MORE AUTHENTIC AND NOT AS TOURISTY.

After our visit to the Awana Kancha Farm, we headed down into the Urubamba Valley toward the village of Pisac, which lies at the foot of the monumental Pisac Ruins.  The Urubamba Valley is located on the route from Cusco to the jungle region that provided the Inca empire with tropical fruits and coca, which was used in rituals.  We drove part of the way up, explored the main residential section, then hiked to the top of the ruins, which is a classic Pucara fortress, surrounded by amazing agricultural terraces, tombs, and baths.  We hiked a lot further than I did with Odon and I was glad I got to see more of this beautiful place.  We saw a number of very nice ruins before hiking all the way to the bottom through the steep and expansive terraces and ended up at the market in the village.   For an interesting article that provides a lot of information about the ruins, look here. 

The Residential, Temple, and Pucara (Fortress) Sectors at Pisac


This first set of photos is from the different sectors found at the Pisac ruins.  The ruins are extensive and include residences, temples, and fortress structures.  My photos don’t do this majestic ruin justice, but hopefully they will give you some sense of the beauty and scope of this special place.  To see a separate gallery that contains many more of my photos of the Pisac ruin, look here.  

OUR GROUP, AT THE RESIDENTIAL SECTOR OF THE PISAC RUINS.
I BELIEVE THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE TEMPLE AREA AT THE PISAC RUINS. VERY IMPRESSIVE!
DETAIL OF THE CARVED BOULDER NEAR THE BASE OF THE PISAC CENTRAL TEMPLE AREA.
VIEW OF ONE OF THE RESIDENTIAL AREAS AT PISAC. SUCH A MAGNIFICENT SETTING!
ONE OF FIVE GATES AT PISAC. THESE GATES HELP PROVIDE PROTECTION FOR DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THE COMPLEX.
A SMALL SECTION OF WALL SHOWS THE FINE MASONRY SKILLS OF THE INCA.
THERE ARE A NUMBER OF WATER CHANNELS AND FOUNTAINS THAT ARE STILL FUNCTIONAL AT PISAC.
CLIMBING UP TO ONE OF THE HIGH OBSERVATION POINTS/STRUCTURES AT PISAC.
A VIEW OF ONE OF THE PISAC HIGH AREAS. THESE STRUCTURES WERE PRECARIOUSLY PERCHED ON THE MOUNTAIN.
ANOTHER VIEW FROM UP HIGH AT PISAC.
SOME OF THE TRAILS WE HIKED AT PISAC WERE QUITE STEEP.

The Pisac Terraces and Tombs


Pisac sits high above some amazing terraces.  They are large, and steep, to the point of being mind-boggling.  The Pisac Ruin is also home to a very large number of tombs dug into the mountain-side.  The tombs were looted before archaeologists could explore and document their contents, but the open tombs are still quite visible in one area of the site.  It is said to be one of the largest known Inca cemeteries.  Here are a few of my photos of these features. 

SOME OF THE AMAZING TERRACES THAT THE PISAC SITE IS KNOWN FOR.
ANOTHER VIEW OF SOME THE BEAUTIFUL PISAC TERRACES.
THIS PHOTO GIVES YOU AN IDEA OF HOW STEEP SOME OF THE PISAC TERRACES ARE.
THIS VIEW SHOWS AN AREA OF PISAC WHERE A RESIDENTIAL SECTOR TRANSITIONS TO TERRACES.
HIKING ONE OF THE PISAC TERRACES.
THE PISAC RUINS TOMBS ARE ALL LOCATED IN ONE AREA, ALONG A SPECIFIC AREA OF A MOUNTAINSIDE. IN THIS PHOTO, SOME OF THE SMALLER TOMBS ARE VISIBLE, AND LOOK LIKE ROUND HOLES.
THIS VIEW OF THE INCA CEMETERY AT PISAC SHOWS MEDIUM-SIZED GRAVES, PROBABLY IMPORTANT PEOPLE THAT WERE NOT QUITE AT THE TOP OF THE FOOD CHAIN.
THIS LAST PHOTO OF PISAC CEMETERY SHOWS THE LARGEST OF THE TOMBS -- CLEARLY VERY IMPORTANT PEOPLE WERE BURIED HERE BY THE INCAS!

A Flute For Miguel


While we were high up on the ruins at Pisac, we ran across a solitary flute player.  He followed us for a while and, while we stopped for a rest on the trail, played his flute for us.  Miguel remarked that he had forgotten to pack his flute, and wished he had it so he could play for us too.  It turned out our new friend had some flutes for sale (hidden in his backpack), and I negotiated a purchase of one for Miguel.  It was money well spent, as Miguel serenaded us often during the rest of our time together.  He played beautifully, and sometimes it was almost magical to be walking high in the Andes listening to his heavenly sounds!

OUR NEW FRIEND, THE PISAC RUINS FLUTIST.
SMILES ALL AROUND AS MIGUEL ADMIRES HIS NEW FLUTE. YOU CAN SEE THE OTHER FLUTES OUR FRIEND HAD FOR SALE ON THE GROUND IN FRONT OF THEM.
TWO HAPPY AND TALENTED GUYS!
MIGUEL PAUSES TO PLAY FOR US ON THE MAIN TRAIL DOWN INTO PISAC.

Here are a couple of videos of Miguel playing the flute that I bought him at the Pisac Ruins.  I made the second video right after we had made a strenuous climb, high in the Andes.  It was amazing to watch Miguel walk the trail playing the flute as as seen in the first video.  We were often out of breath, and were encourged to keep climbing by his beautiful music!

Hotel Pakaritampu in Ollantaytambo


Our first full day together was very enjoyable, and very full.  After climbing down from the Pisac ruins, we spent a little time in the market then had a nice dinner. We then headed to the City of Ollantaytambo which is near the start of the Inca Trail.  We then checked into a very nice little hotel with beautiful grounds called Pakaritampu, where we spent the night.  

THE MARKET AT PISAC WAS COLORFUL, AND FILLED WITH BEAUTIFUL THINGS AS WELL AS BEAUTIFUL AND FRIENDLY PERUVIANS.
WE WERE MORE THAN READY FOR DINNER AFTER A VERY FULL DAY!
THE ENTRANCE TO THE HOTEL PAKERITAMPU. BEHIND THIS FACADE WAS A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN-LIKE SETTING.
PART OF THE BEAUTIFUL GROUNDS AT HOTEL PAKARITAMPU. SUCH A MAJESTIC SETTING!
THIS YOUNG LADY WAS ALLOWED TO SET UP SHOP UNDER A TREE ON THE GROUNDS OF PAKARITAMPU. I AM SURE I BOUGHT SOMETHING FROM HER, BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT!

We had one final task to perform that evening while we were at Hotel Pakaritampu — pack the duffle bags that our porters would carry for us as we hiked the Inca Trail.  We were given a duffle bag with instructions as to the maximum weight limit for each duffle — as I recall, our duffles were limited to 15 pounds each.  The weight limits for what each porter could carry on the Inka Trail were strictly enforced, so that they are not taken advantage of and forced to carry too much weight.  The maximum weight that a porter could carry on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was limited to 45 pounds. Each porter is weighed at the beginning of the tour and again in Wayllabamba at the beginning of the second day.  So, I carefully laid out what I would put into my duffle, as well as packed up the backpack that I would personally carry each day on the Inca Trail.

GEAR I SELECTED AND PUT IN MY DUFFLE. ARE YOU IMPRESSED WITH MY ORGANIZATION??!

Friday, April 14, 2017 —  The Ollantaytambo Ruins and A Visit To Several Calaveras In A Private Home.

 

The Ollantaytambo Ruins


We left our hotel Friday morning and headed over to the monumental ruins at Ollantaytambo.  We spent several hours exploring the ruins and they were magnificent!  We climbed to all of the different sectors that are open for public visitation, and saw some amazing examples of Inca craftsmanship and creativity with the massive stones they quarried, fashioned, and transported to the site.  The acqueduct system and beautiful fountains were particulary memorable as was the huge Sun Temple at the top of the run.  This ruin has a military sector, and it was a critical military stronghold for the Inca, playing an important role in one of their major battles with the Spanish.  In fact, it is one of the few places where the conquistadors lost a battle with the Incas.  So much beauty and history in this place.  Below are a few of the pictures I took during our visit to Ollantaytambo, and if you look here you can see a separate gallery with many more of my photos of this monumental ruin.  

THE OLLANTAYTAMBO RUINS SIT HIGH ABOVE THE VILLAGE AND ARE VISIBLE FROM THE TOWN SQUARE.
SIGNAGE AT THE OLLANTAYTAMBO RUINS HIGHLIGHTS THE DIFFERENT SECTORS AND FEATURES AT THE SITE.
PASSING THROUGH THE GRASSY OPEN AREA AT THE FOOT OF THE RUINS. SOME OF THE INCA STONE WORK IS ON DISPLAY IN THIS AREA.
ONE OF THE MAIN GATES AT OLLANTAYTAMBO. TO THE RIGHT OF THE GATE IS ONE OF TEN HORNACINAS (NICHES) ALONG AN IMPRESSIVE STRETCH OF WALL.
THE SIX MASSIVE STONES THAT MAKE UP ONE SIDE OF THE SUN TEMPLE AT OLLANTAYTAMBO.
THE NUSTA FOUNTAIN AT OLLANTAYTAMBO HAS A DEPICTION OF A PORTAL CARVED INTO THE STONE.

A  Song and Tres Calaveras


After we finished up at the ruins, we walked through the streets of Ollantaytambo, which are quite historic in their own right.  You see lots of Inca era stonework, including cobbled streets and parts of an ancient acqueduct/drainage system.  The foundations in the village remain exactly as the Incas laid them out several hundred years ago.  Each block,  known as a cancha, is a self-contained unit with only one entrance to the street.  As we walked down one narrow street, we encountered a Peruvian woman and her children who offered to sing us a song.  

MEETING A MUSICAL FAMILY ON THE STREETS OF OLLANTAYTAMBO.

In short order we arrived at a traditional private home in Ollantaytambo that Miguel had arranged for us to visit.  When I say traditional, I mean traditional.  Upon entering the first thing we noticed were guinea pigs (known as “cuy”) living in the residence.  This is often the case in rural, traditional homes.  Next our attention was drawn to three skulls (calaveras) displayed next to what appeared to be mummified animals hanging on the wall.  This somewhat shocking display, while not widespread, is not uncommon in the more traditional homes.  Some Peruvians display skulls of their ancestors in their home and pray to them on a regular basis.  It is thought that the skulls will protect the home from thieves and bad energy.  Mummification dates back to Inca times and archaeologists have discovered mummified llamas and dogs at burial sites.  I could not tell what was on display in this home (baby llamas or dogs) nor did Miguel explain their significance.  What we observed in this home is not usually shared with non-family and is rarely mentioned to outsiders.  It was a unique look at a seldom seen aspect of Peruvian culture.  

MIGUEL EXPLAINS SOME OF THE UNUSUAL SIGHTS OF A TRADITIONAL RESIDENCE IN OLLANTAYTAMBO. NOTE THE GUINEA PIGS ON THE FLOOR.
A HORNACINA IS USED TO DISPLAY THE SKULLS OF ANCESTORS AS WELL AS GIFTS TO HONOR THEM.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE THREE CALVERAS AND THE MUMMIFIED ANIMALS ON THE WALL.

This concludes our “warm up” for the Inca Trail.  Part 4 of my blog begins after our visit to the private home in Ollantaytambo, as we  head to the trailhead for a three mile hike along the river to the first campsite of our hike along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.