So grateful I had the opportunity to experience this magnificent place!

Hiking The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu


Prologue…


Well, it was time to fish, or cut bait —  it was time to hike the Inca Trail.  I had spent many hours and many days preparing for this endeavor, and was excited that the time had finally arrived for me to experience the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu.  This final post of my Peruvian trip begins on the afternoon of Friday, April 14, 2017 as we begin our hike.  I hope you enjoy my account of what was truly an epic adventure for this old man!

Friday, April 14, 2017 —  The Hike To Our First Campsite on The Inca Trail

After we finished up exploring the ruins and the village at Ollantaytambo, we drove over to a trailhead on the river, shouldered our packs, and began the three mile hike to our first campsite, situated near the official start of the Inca Trail. 

READY TO TAKE OUR FIRST STEPS TOWARD THE INCA TRAIL AND MACHU PICCHU.
THE TRAIL WAS EASY, AND THE SCENERY BEAUTIFUL. IT MADE FOR A REALLY NICE AFTERNOON WALK IN THE MOUNTAINS OF PERU.
THROUGHOUT OUR TIME ON THE TRAILS, MIGUEL WOULD OFTEN STOP AND SHARE HIS KNOWLEDGE OF THE LOCAL FLORA AND FAUNA.
THE FIRST PART OF THE TRAIL WE WALKED FOLLOWED THE URABAMBA RIVER. YOU CAN SEE THE TRAIN THAT TAKES PEOPLE UP TO AGUA FRIAS AND MACHU PICCHU IN THIS PHOTO.
I WAS SO EXCITED TO FINALLY BE ON THE TRAIL!

We reached our campsite a little after 4:oo pm. that afternoon.  It was a lovely setting —  located at 8,900 feet, our camp was a collection of thatch-roofed structures right on the river with a beautiful view of the mountains.  Our gear was waiting for us and some of the porter crew was busy preparing an earth oven to cook our supper.  Our trip was off to a pleasant start!

OUR DUFFLES AND A BUCKET OF COLD BEER WAITED FOR US AT THE CAMPSITE. I, OF COURSE, DID NOT PARTAKE, BEING SOBER FOR OVER SEVEN YEARS.
MY HOME FOR THE NIGHT WAS THE TENT ON THE RIGHT.
THE CAMPSITE'S MAIN STRUCTURE HAD HOT SHOWERS, A COMFORTABLE PLACE TO RELAX, AND A BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS.
MIGUEL GAVE US A LITTLE PRESENTATION AS WE WAITED FOR SUPPER, EXPLAINING OUR ROUTE AND OUR DAILY ROUTINE ON OUR TREK TO MACHU PICCHU.
IT WAS DARK AS THE CREW WAS PUTTING FOOD ON THE COALS OF THE EARTH OVEN BEFORE COVERING IT WITH DIRT AND LETTING IT COOK.
THE VIEW OF MT. VERONICA (20,275') FROM OUR CAMP WAS BREATHTAKING AS THE SUN WAS SETTING ON THE SUMMIT.

Saturday, April 15, 2017 —  Willka Racay, Llactapata, the Huayllabamba Valley, and Camp Near Paucarcancha Ruins

 

Bright eyed and bushy tailed, we were up early, eagerly anticipating our first full day on the Classic Inca Trail.  Each morning, a pair of porters would wake each tent with hot coffee or tea.  Since I am such an early riser, I made a habit of heading to the kitchen tent and having my coffee with the porters and camp staff.  At first I think they were a little uncomfortable with me showing up early each morning and hanging out with them.  But after they got to know me and realized I was just a harmless, good-natured Texan, I think they looked forward to my early morning visits.  By the way, before I forget, here is a map I made showing our campsites along the Classic Inca Trail.  

A MAP I PUT TOGETHER SHOWING OUR APPROXIMATE CAMPSITE LOCATIONS AND ELEVATIONS ON OUR INCA TRAIL TREK.

Our porters efficiently packed up all of our gear (including our own toliets), and, after a quick breakfast, we were off to the entrance to the Machu Picchu Archaeological Park and the Classic Inca Trail.  Since our private campsite was strategically located near the entrance, we appeared to be the first group granted entry into the Park.  Off we went, excited to actually be hiking the Inca Trail!

OUR PORTERS WERE VERY EFFICIENT AT PACKING, UNPACKING, AND TRANSPORTING OUR GEAR EACH DAY. HERE THEY ARE, PREPARING TO HEAD OUT SO THAT THEY COULD SET UP A TENT FOR LUNCH AND AN AREA FOR US TO REST ALONG THE TRAIL.
I WANTED TO KNOW WHAT THE PACKS OUR PORTERS CARRIED FELT LIKE SO THIS YOUNG FELLOW GRACIOUSLY ALLOWED ME TO TRY ON HIS PACK BEFORE HE SET OUT FOR THE DAY.
I THINK WE WERE THE FIRST GROUP OF HIKERS TO ENTER THE PARK THAT MORNING. THE PORTERS USED A DIFFERENT CHECKPOINT AREA WHERE THEIR PACKS WERE INSPECTED AND WEIGHED.
YOURS TRULY, WAITING FOR MIGUEL TO GET US CHECKED IN AND CLEARED FOR ENTRY INTO THE PARK.
READY TO HIT THE TRAIL! MIGUEL GOT US CHECKED IN AND OUR PASSPORT STAMPED WITH THE MACHU PICCHU PARK SYMBOL.
SIGNAGE JUST INSIDE THE PARK ENTRANCE.
IT FELT GREAT TO FINALLY BE HIKING ON THE CLASSIC INCA TRAIL!
I WILL NEVER FORGET THE BEAUTY OF THE INCA TRAIL AND THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.

The Ruins at Llactapata and Willka Raqay…


After hiking a couple of miles on the gradually ascending trail, we found ourselves looking down at the impressive ruins of Llactapata.  We kept climbing and in short order reached the ruins of Willka Raqay, perched high above Llactapata.  We spent a little time exploring the ruins and enjoying the majestic views of Llactapata far below.  These first ruins gave us a taste of what was to come!

OUR FIRST VIEW OF THE LLACTAPATA RUINS WHICH ARE DOWN IN A VALLEY BY THE RIO CUSICHACA.
APPROACHING WILLKA RAQAY, WHICH AFFORDED US EVEN BETTER VIEWS OF LLACTAPATA IN THE VALLEY BELOW.
WILLKA RAQAY, AS VIEWED FROM A DIFFERENT VANTAGE POINT.
A CLOSER LOOK AT A PORTION OF THE LLACTAPATA RUINS, AS SEEN FROM WILLKA RAQAY. NOTE THE HUGE BOULDERS SCATTERED AMONG THE TERRACES.

Lunch and Random Sights Along the Trail to Paucarcancha…

 

After exploring Willka Raqay (and gazing at Llactapata far below) we headed toward Paucarcancha and our next campsite.  We hiked over seven and a half miles on this day, much of it after our stop at Willka Raqay.  A little after noon we caught up with a few of our porters, who had set up a tent for lunch and an area for us to relax and stretch out for a while.  That afternoon we also passed through the village of Huayllabamba, and encountered a few local mountain residents along our route.     

ALMOST LUNCH TIME AS WE REACH THE REST AREA AND THE DINING TENT OUR PORTERS SET UP FOR US.
WAITING FOR LUNCH TO BE SERVED INSIDE OF OUR DINING TENT WHICH OUR PORTERS HAD PUT UP JUST STEPS AWAY FROM THE TRAIL.
TIME OUT FOR A BRIEF NAP AFTER LUNCH.
SHARING THE TRAIL WITH SOME OF THE LOCALS.
I MET THIS YOUNG LADY AND HER BROTHER IN THE VILLAGE OF HUAYLLABAMBA. I COULDN'T COAX A SMILE OUT OF HER, BUT I THINK SHE AND HER BROTHER WERE PLEASED TO GET A COUPLE OF THE TEXAS COIN PURSES I BROUGHT ALONG TO GIVE OUT TO KIDS.
AN AVOCADO TREE ALONG THE INCA TRAIL.
THE POLE WITH THE RED PLASTIC BAG INDICATES THAT THIRSTY TRAVELERS CAN PURCHASE "CHICHA" AT THIS HOME/STORE. CHICHA IS A HOMEMADE FERMENTED CORN BREW POPULAR IN THE RURAL AREAS. WHILE I BOUGHT SOME FOR SOME PORTERS, I DIDN'T TRY IT MYSELF. STILL SOBER AFTER ALL THESE YEARS!
LOTS OF SMALL RIVERS AND WATER ALONG THE INCA TRAIL!
IT WAS NOT UNOMMON TO SEE SMALL, ISOLATED STRUCTURES AND RUINS ALONG THE TRAIL.

Our Camp Below The Paucarcancha  Ruins…


We camped below the Paucarcancha Ruins.  Paucarcancha was an important Inca checkpoint, overlooking and controlling the intersection of two important Inca trails.  The fortified ruins commanded a view of both valleys, and was high on a hill, surrounded by a wall.  As you can see from the map above, this location is southeast of the main artery of the Classic Inca Trail and we pretty much had this spur trail and the ruin all to ourselves.  Our campsite was at 9,840 and we hiked 7.47 miles and gained almost a thousand feet of elevation to get there.  A very enjoyable walk in the Andes!

LOOKING UP AT THE WALLED PAUCARCANCHA CHECKPOINT RUINS FROM BELOW
THE STRATEGICALLY LOCATED RUINS AT PAUCARCANCHA.
IT WAS A BEAUTIFUL EVENING AT PAUCARCANCHA.
OUR TENTS WERE PITCHED IN THATCH-ROOFED STRUCTURES BELOW THE RUINS. AFTER HIKING ALL DAY AT ALTITUDE, I SLEPT LIKE A BABY!

Sunday, April 16, 2017 —  The Hike Up Dead Woman Pass (Warmiwañusqa) and Camp at Pacamayo

 

Today was the day that I would test my legs and my lungs by hiking 4,000 feet of elevation up to Dead Woman Pass, which is the highest point on the Classic Inca Trail.  As we left our camp at Paucarcancha I was feeling energetic, and confident that all the hours I spent training for this day would carry me to the top! 

I LEFT THE COZY CONFINES OF MY TENT AT PAUCARCANCHA EAGER TO TAKE ON DEAD WOMAN PASS!
CREAM AND SUGAR? COFFEE SERVICE AT PAUCARCANCHA. MIGUEL HAD DONNED HIS CHOLLO IN THE EARLY MORNING CHILL.
I TALKED THE PORTERS INTO POSING WITH A TASTE OF TEXAS RIGHT BEFORE WE LEFT OUR CAMP AT PAUCARCANCHA.
OUR MERRY BAND, READY TO HIKE UP FOR A VISIT WITH THE DEAD WOMAN.

Heading Through The Wayllabamba Checkpoint On The Way To The Final Climb Up To Dead Woman Pass…

 

We headed out from our campsite toward the Wayllabamba Checkpoint where the packs of our porters were once again weighed and inspected by the Inca Trail Park officials.  On our way we passed through a scenic village with decorated houses and some interesting ruins.  And, of course there were beautiful views as we climbed higher into the Andes.  

OFF WE GO, WITH MIGUEL AND THE PORTERS LEADING THE WAY.
THERE WAS NO SHORTAGE OF BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS, UNTIL WE CLIMBED UP TO THE HIGHER ELEVATIONS.
A FUNCTIONAL YET PICTURESQUE LITTLE VILLAGE THAT WE PASSED.
THIS SCHOOL (AT LEAST WHAT LOOKED LIKE A SCHOOL TO ME!) WAS THE ONLY ONE I RECALL SEEING IN THE RURAL AREAS OF THE MOUNTAINS. NOTE THE PROXIMITY OF RUINS IN THE BACKGROUND.
ONE OF THE SMALL VILLAGES HAD A TALENTED ARTIST IN ITS MIDST.
HUMMINGBIRD ART...
ONE FINAL LOOK AT SOME OF THE "HOUSE ART" ALONG THE TRAIL.
AN INTERESTING VIEW AS WE APPROACH ANOTHER VILLAGE.
SOME OF THE SMALLER RUINS WERE RIGHT ON THE TRAIL.
THIS LITTLE RUIN LOOKED LIKE A CHECKPOINT, SIMILAR TO THE PAUCARCANCHA SITE WHERE WE SPENT THE NIGHT.

The Wayllabamba Checkpoint…

 

We had a slight delay at the Wayllabamba Checkpoint as officials checked and weighed our porter’s packs to make sure weight limits were not being exceeded.  I was impressed by these precautions that made sure the indigenous porters were not abused or taken advantage of.  

A REST STOP NEAR THE CHECKPOINT.
THE OFFICIAL CHECKPOINT STATION AT WAYLLABAMBA.
SIGNAGE ON THE TRAIL JUST PAST THE CHECKPOINT.

After passing through the checkpoint, we began the ascent to Dead Woman Pass.  It was a long, uphill climb through woods, and alongside a rushing stream, until we reached the very steep switchbacks that took us up to the Pass.  The higher we got, the colder and foggier it got, especially at the Pass, which is just shy of 14,000 feet.  After making to the top, we rested a bit, then began the 2,300 foot descent down to our stunning campsite at Pacaymayo (11,480 feet).  I  am most grateful for the good health that allowed me to enjoy these wonderful sights and this unforgettable day!

THE TRAIL HAD SOME FAIRLY STEEP SECTIONS EVEN IN BEGINNING OF OUR DAY. YOU HAD TO PAY ATTENTION AND MAKE SURE YOU KNEW WHERE YOU WERE STEPPING NEXT.
MIGUEL ACCOMPANIED THE SOUND OF RUSHING WATER WITH HIS FLUTE...MAYBE IT WAS LACK OF OXYGEN, BUT IT SEEMED SURREAL AT TIMES!
THIS BEAUTIFUL STREAM WAS OUR COMPANION FOR QUITE A DISTANCE. WE WERE BEGINNING TO SEE MORE STREAMS AND SOME WATERFALLS...OUTSTANDING SCENERY!
BY THE TIME WE STOPPED FOR LUNCH, WE WERE IN THE CLOUDS.
LOOKING BACK DOWN THE TRAIL TO THE AREA WHERE WE CAME FROM. AMAZING VIEWS!
READY TO MAKE THE FINAL PUSH UP TO DEAD WOMAN PASS AND THE HIGHEST POINT ON THE TRAIL. THIS WAS BY FAR THE HIGHEST ALTITUDE I HAD EVER HIKED AT.
GETTING CLOSER WITH EACH STEP!
AT THE TOP OF DEAD WOMAN PASS. I WAS QUITE PROUD OF MYSELF!
MIGUEL BROUGHT UP THE REAR TO MAKE SURE EVERYONE MADE IT TO THE TOP SAFELY.
THE GANG IS ALL HERE, AT THE TOP OF DEAD WOMAN PASS.

Camp (#3) at Pacaymayo…

 

Once we made it to the top of Dead Woman Pass, our day was not nearly over.  We still had to descend about 2,300 feet to camp at Pacamayo, which was situated at 11,480 feet.  The hike down was beautiful as waterfalls began to dot the landscape and the clouds and setting sun painted beautiful pictures for our enjoyment.  We hiked 6.84 miles and gained 4,000 feet of elevation during our challenging day of hiking.  I must admit I proud of myself, but also grateful that I still possess the good health and energy to enjoy this day! 

DOWN WE GO!
NOTE THE WATERFALL BEHIND ME. WE SAW A NUMBER OF THEM ON THE WAY DOWN TO OUR CAMP AT PACAYMAYO.
I CAN'T FIND THE WORDS FOR THIS PHOTO. HOW ABOUT SURREAL?!
THE SIGN THAT WELCOMED US TO THE PACAYMAYO CAMPING AREA.
TIME TO LOOK FOR MY TENT!
THE CAMPING AREA AT PACAYMAYO WAS VERY LARGE, AND VERY CROWDED.
LOOKING OUT OF OUR DINING TENT AT PACAYMAYO. THIS IS MY FAVORITE PHOTO OF THE ENTIRE TRIP!
A BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL ON A NEARBY MOUNTAINSIDE.
GOOD NIGHT SWEET PRINCE!!

Monday, April 17, 2017 —  Runkuraqay, Sayaqmarka, and Camp Above Phuyupatamarka


We spent this day at high altitude, hiking about 6.5 miles and visiting two major ruins on our way to our campsite above the ruins at Phuyypatamarka.  It was a foggy and misty morning as we set out, and remained that way for most of the day.  Our first stop that morning (after climbing close to 1,000 feet) was the circular ruin of Runkuraqay, which archaeologists think was a lookout post or a tambo (a place where travelers on the Inca Trail could stay).  

THE TRAIL STARTED TO CLIMB AS WE LEFT OUR CAMP AT PACAMAYO. I TOOK THIS SHOT LOOKING BACK DOWN ON OUR CAMP AS WE HIKED HIGHER.
GETTING CLOSE TO THE RUNKURAQAY RUINS.
OUR FIRST LOOK AT RUNKURAQAY FROM THE INCA TRAIL.
THE OUTER WALLS OF RUNKURAQAY WERE MASSIVE AND HAD NO WINDOWS, JUST A SINGLE ENTRY POINT TO THE RUINS.
THE EASTERN COURTYARD AT RUNKURAQAY HAD AN IMPRESSIVE VIEW OF THE VALLEY BELOW.

From the Runkuraqay ruin we climbed up a narrow pass known as “Abra de Runkuraqay” (12,960′), then began to descend to our next ruin at Sayaqmarka (11,880′).  On the way, we passed through a notable feature on the trail —  a tunnel with steps carved out of massive stones.  

ONE OF OUR GROUP ENTERING THE TUNNEL ON THE WAY TO SAYAMARKA.
THE STAIRS IN THE UPPER PART OF THE TUNNEL WERE QUITE STEEP.
IN ADDITION TO SOME OF THE CARVED STAIRS, THE INCA FASHIONED SOME NICHES AND FLAT AREAS FOR ALTARS, ETC. INSIDE THE TUNNEL.

We continued past the tunnel until we reached the ruins at Sayaqmarka, which are perched atop a sheer cliff.  The word Sayaqmarka means “Inaccessible Place” and this ruin is certainly that!  We enjoyed exploring the maze like ruins and were rewarded with a number of unique features at the site. 

OUR VIEW OF SAYAQMARKA FROM THE TRAIL, SHOWS THE MAZE-LIKE QUALITY OF THIS RUIN.
THE FINAL STEEP CLIMB UP TO THE RUIN AT SAYAQMARKA.
AS WE REACH SAYAQMARKA YOU CAN SEE THE SMALL RUIN OF KANCHAMARCA DOWN BELOW.
THIS PARABOLA-SHAPED BUILDING AT SAYAQMARKA HAS UNUSUAL TRAPEZOIDAL OPENINGS THAT LOOK OUT OVER THE VALLEY BELOW.
WE SAW SEVERAL STONES AT SAYAQMARKA SHAPED LIKE THIS. HAND HOLD? DOOR TIE? WHO KNOWS!
THIS HUGE BOULDER USED TO HAVE A HUGE CARVING OF AN ANTHROPOMORPH ON IT. LOOK CAREFULLY AND YOU CAN SEE TWO MORE OF THE "HANDHOLD" STONES.
THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE TRAPEZOIDAL WINDOWS, AND A SET OF FLYING STAIRS. MANY COOL FEATURES AT THIS RUIN!

The weather high in the Andes could change in the blink of an eye.  While we were at Sayaqmarka, some clouds blew in  and literally filled the valley.  Here is a short video I made of the clouds moving in with surprising speed.  

We left Sayamarka and passed by a small ruin named Kanchamarca, located near  the bottom of the cliff that Sayamarka sits atop. 

APPROACHING THE SMALL RUIN KANCHAMARCA DOWN IN THE VALLEY BELOW THE SAYAQMARKA RUINS ON THE INCA TRAIL.

We reached our camp for the evening late that afternoon, and what a spectacular camp it was!  Located at just over 12,000′, the camp had magnificent views of Humantay (19,239′) and Salcantay (20,574′) peaks.  We enjoyed a breathtaking sunset as we settled in at the top of the world, high above the beautiful ruins of Phuyypatamarka!

OUR CAMP ABOVE PHUYUPATAMARKA.
IT REALLY DID FEEL LIKE WE AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD!
ONE OF SEVERAL WILD LLAMAS THAT ROAMED AROUND OUR CAMP.
THIS LLAMA SEEMED TO ENJOY THE VIEW AS MUCH AS WE DID.
WE SAID GOODBYE TO OUR CREW BEFORE WE LEFT THE CAMP THAT MORNING. WHAT A FINE GROUP OF HARDWORKING AND HUMBLE MEN...I WAS BLESSED TO MEET AND KNOW THEM!
LOOKING DOWN AT THE PHUYUPATAMARKA RUINS, WHICH HIRAM BINGHAM NAMED "THE TOWN IN THE CLOUDS".

Tuesday, April 18, 2017 & Wednesday, April 19,  2017 —  Phuyupatamarka,Winay Wayna, Intipunku (The Sungate), Our Our Visits to Machu Picchu, and Our Stay at The Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge…

Phuyupatamarka, the  “Town  in the Clouds”…


We left camp that morning, bound for Machu Picchu, and our excitement was growing with each step.   Right before our departure, Miguel gathered the crew together so we could give them our thanks and say our goodbyes.  To see a little video of our goodbye to the crew, look here.  Our first stop was Phuyupatamarka  (11,700′), which Hiram Bingham named the “Town in the Clouds”.  On this cloudy, drizzly morning, it almost had an intimate feel to it.  The feature that remains in my mind are the ritual baths at this site, some of which still had water running in them!  We had the place all to ourselves, unlike our next stop  (Wiñay Wayna), which was on a location on the “short” version of the Inca Trail, and much more accessible. 

VIEW OF THE TOP SECTION OF THE PHYUPATAMARKA RUINS, AS SEEN FROM ABOVE AT THE CAMPSITE.
ON THE INCA TRAIL, APPROACHING PHUYUPATAMARKA. WE WERE GRATEFUL FOR HIKING STICKS ON THE SLICK STONES!
PHUYUPATAMARKA HAD AN ERIE FEEL TO IT, ENVELOPED IN CLOUDS. TO THE RIGHT OF THE TRAIL YOU CAN SEE THE START OF THE LINE OF RITUAL BATHS.
ONE OF THE RITUAL BATHS AT PHUYUPATAMARKA. THE PRESERVATION IS AMAZING...IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY, YOU CAN SEE THE WATER RUNNING IN THE BATH, AS WELL AS OUT OF THE BATH, FLOWING TO THE NEXT BATH STRUCTURE.
THIS LOVELY CARVED HUACA SITS NEAR THE RITUAL BATHS AT PHUYUPATAMARKA.
ANOTHER SHOT OF PHUYYPATAMARKA, WHICH WAS ONE OF MY FAVORITE PLACES THAT WE VISITED ON THE INCA TRAIL.
LEAVING THE PHUYUPATAMARKA RUINS. I REALLY LIKED THIS SPECIAL PLACE!

From Phuyupatamarka, we continued on our way to Wiñay Wayna, hiking an amazing Inca-built stone staircase that plunges a half-mile down into high jungle vegetation. This section of the original Inca Trail was only uncovered in 1984, and includes another Inca tunnel.  In the wet conditions it was slippery and slightly treacherous!

A STAIRCASE ON THE INCA TRAIL THAT IS LITERALLY CARVED OUT OF THE STONE...AMAZING!
WE NEGOTIATED ANOTHER IMPRESSIVE INCA TUNNEL ON THE TRAIL TO WINAY WAYNA.
WE ALSO STOPPED FOR LUNCH ON THE WAY TO WINAY WAYNA. IT WAS AMAZING THAT ON THE LAST DAY ON THE TRAIL THE CREW WAS ABLE TO PROVIDE A LUNCH OF THIS QUALITY!
HOW DID THEY DO THAT?! SEEMS OUR COOK WAS A MAGICIAN!

Wiñay Wayna Ruins…


Our final stop before we reached the Machu Picchu complex was Wiñay Wayna, an impressive site that features a large round structure overlooking stairs down to ten ritual baths.  This site is named for an orchid that blooms year-round, hence the Quechuan name of “forever young”.  What a beautiful place!  We suddenly encountered a lot more people, as those who did the day hike from Km 104 (known as the “Short Inca Trail”), joined us at Wiñay Wayna.  It is about a 7.5 mile hike from Km 104 to Machu Picchu and many hikers do it as a day hike. 

WE ARRIVE AT THE LAST MAJOR RUIN BEFORE WE REACH THE MACHU PICCHU COMPLEX.
THIS VIEW OF WINAY WAYNA SHOWS MOST OF THE TERRACES, THE UPPER STRUCTURE, THE PATH DOWN PAST THE TEN RITUAL BATHS, AND THE LOWER RUINS.
YOURS TRULY AT WINAY WAYNA, FIXING TO WALK DOWN TO LOOK AT THE TEN RITUAL BATHS AND THE LOWER RUINS.
THIS VIEW AT WINAY WAYNA GIVES YOU SOME IDEA OF HOW STEEP THE PATH DOWN TO THE RITUAL BATHS IS.
A WATERFALL PROVIDES A DRAMATIC BACK-DROP TO THE LOWER RUINS AT WINAY WAYNA.

Intipunku, The Gate of the Sun…


After our time exploring the ruins at Wiñay Wayna, we headed for Intipunku and the main entrance to Machu  Picchu.  As we hiked down toward Machu  Picchu, the trail became more lush, with lots of beautiful flowers.  Wiñay Wayna was at 11,811′ while MachuPicchu is at 7, 900′.  In fact, Machu  Picchu  is 3,300′ lower than Cusco, and 1,600′ lower than the Sacred Valley, so we were seeing a lot of vegatation for the first time on this part of the Inca Trail.  Intipunku, known as the Gate of the Sun, was the “control gate” (or military checkpoint) for Machu Picchu, and anyone traveling from Cusco would have to pass through it.  Intipunku is about a mile from Machu Picchu, and affords the first view of the ruins for those hiking the Inca Trail.  

AS WE GOT TO LOWER ELEVATIONS ON THE TRAIL, WE BEGAN TO SEE LOTS OF FLORA. MIQUEL OFTEN STOPPED TO TELL US ABOUT THE ORCHIDS AND OTHER BEAUTIFUL PLANTS ALONG THIS PART OF THE INCA TRAIL.
WHILE THE TRAIL WAS DESCENDING MOST OF THE WAY, THERE WAS A STEEP CLIMB UP TO THE SUN GATE.
OUR GROUP ENTERS THE SUN GATE, READY TO GET OUR FIRST VIEW OF MACHU PICCHU.
IN FRONT OF THE SUN GATE, LOOKING DOWN ON MACHU PICCHU.
AT THE SUN GATE, WITH MACHU PICCHU IN THE BACKGROUND. I FELT GREAT SATISFACTION IN COMPLETING THIS HIKE!
THEY DON'T ALLOW YOU TO DISPLAY FLAGS AT THE SUN GATE, BUT I SNUCK IN THIS PIC OF MY BACKPACK!
LOOKING DOWN ON MACHU PICCHU FROM THE SUNGATE...WHAT AN AMAZING SIGHT.

Magnificent Machu Picchu…


After taking in the view from the Sun Gate, we walked roughly one mile to the entrance to the Machu Picchu ruins.  We spent the rest of the afternoon as Miguel showed us the main structures and features at the site.  A little background information about Machu Pichu:

Machu Picchu was so well hidden that the Spaniards never knew of it, and never got a chance to destroy or desecrate any of the structures and features there.  The  site was discovered by American Hiram Bingham in 1911, who had actually been searching for another ruin.  A local indigenous farmer told Bingham about some ruins on a high ridge above the Urubamba River and led him there.  Bingham returned in 1912 and 1915 to begin clearing and documenting the site.  Peruvian archaeologist Luis Valcarcel worked at the site in 1934 and, in 1940 and 1941, a Peruvian-American expedition led by Paul Fejos did additional work at the site. Despite years of excavation and study there is still much to be discovered about this special place.  Archaeologists think that Machu Picchu was built, occupied, and then abandoned in the course of  just over 100 years.  Approximately 200 structures make up this outstanding religious, ceremonial, astronomical and agricultural center, and are set on a steep ridge, criss-crossed by stone terraces.  The ruin is divided into a lower and upper part, separating the farming from residential areas, with a large square between the two.  The southern, eastern, and western parts of the ruin are surrounded by dozens of stepped agricultural terraces that were provided water by an aqueduct system. Some of those terraces were still being used by local Indians when Bingham arrived in 1911.  There were a number of small ruin sites and trails close to Machu Picchu were discovered in the 1980s.  Machu Picchu was declared a World Heritage Site in 1983.  With the advancement of archaeological tools such as lidar, new discoveries are still being made. 

The Intihuana, the Temple of 3 Windows, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Condor, the Royal Tomb, the Water Mirror, and the Central Plaza are a few of the notable ruins that I had the opportunity to see and photograph during our afternoon visit to the site, and our visit the next morning. There are also many other beautiful altars, terraces, fountains, and mysterious chambers located at Machu Picchu that I got to see that day.  Machu Picchu is certainly one of the most stunning archaeological sites in the world, and I am so grateful for the opportunity to experience it!  Here are a few of the photos I took during my visits to Machu  Picchu.  To see a gallery that contains more of the photos from my visits to Machu Picchu, look here. 

APPROACHING MACHU PICCHU ON THE TRAIL DOWN FROM THE SUN GATE.
WE STOPPED BY THIS COLLECTION OF PLAQUES AS WE ENTERED THE PARK AND MIGUEL TOLD US A LITTLE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF MACHU PICCHU.
MIGUEL HAD A STUDIOUS REVERANCE AND ALMOST MYSTICAL CONNECTION TO THIS PLACE.
LOTS OF CLOUDS PROVIDED SOFT LIGHT FOR OUR AFTERNOON VISIT.
THE BEAUTIFUL INTIHUANA, A ROCK THE INCA CARVED AND USED TO PREDICT SOLSTICES. A STUNNING WORK OF ART!
THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN AT MACHU PICCHU, AS SEEN FROM ABOVE.
TEMPLE OF THE SUN, AS VIEWED FROM THE TERRACE BELOW.
ANOTHER VIEW OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, FOR CONTEXT.
I BELIEVE THIS FEATURE IS KNOWN AS THE KINGS TOMB. IT IS LOCATED BELOW THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN AT MACHU PICCHU.
THE TEMPLE OF THE CONDOR, ALSO LOCATED NEAR THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN AT MACHU PICCHU.
WATER MIRRORS AT MACHU PICCHU. LOCATED IN AN ENCLAVE WHERE IT IS THOUGHT THEY WERE USED BY WOMEN FOR HYGIENE AND THE WORSHIP OF WATER.
A VIEW OF A PORTION OF THE TEMPLE OF THREE WINDOWS.
AREA NEAR THE TEMPLE OF 3 WINDOWS. TRAPEZOIDAL WINDOWS WERE RESERVED FOR ROYALTY AND SACRED PLACES.
LARGE CARVED ALTAR AT MACHU PICCHU, WITH A PROMINENT VIEW.
ALTHOUGH OBSCURDED BY THE CLOUDS, THE MOUNTAIN BEHIND THIS CARVED BOULDER IS A SILHOUETTE OF THE TOP LINE OF THE BOULDER.
AREA AROUND THE BASE OF HUAYNA PICCHU. I WANTED TO CLIMB HUAYNA PICCHU BUT THE STEEP TRAILS WERE TOO WET TO BE SAFELY HIKED.
THERE IS SO MUCH TO EXPLORE AT MACHU PICCHU. I NEED TO GO BACK AND SPEND SEVERAL DAYS THERE!
SOMETHING INTERESTING TO SEE NO MATTER WHERE YOU LOOK AT MACHU PICCHU.
LATE AFTERNOON CLOUDS MOVED IN AND CREATED AN EERIE EFFECT AT MACHU PICCHU.
ONE LAST SHOT OF MACHU PICCHU TERRACES IN THE CLOUDS.

The Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge…


After spending the afternoon at the Machu Picchu ruins, we walked the short distance to The Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge.  We cleaned up then met in the restuarant for a last dinner together.  The next morning I was up early and spent some quality time in the beautiful Orchid Garden before we paid another visit to the ruins.  Because we were guests at the hotel, we got to stay late and get in early to the ruins.  I know the hotel is very expensive, but it was certainly worth it to be able to enjoy the ruins without some of the massive crowds you experience there during the middle of the day. 

After our morning visit to the ruins, we took bus down to Agua Calientes, where we had lunch and caught an afternoon train back to Ollayatambo.  We then drove to Cusco for one last night at the Hotel Monasteri.  The next morning  I was on my own, so I paid a visit to a museum (see Part 1 of this blog) before heading to the Cusco Airport to catch my flights home.   

ENTRANCE TO THE GROUNDS AT MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY LODGE.
PART OF THE RECEPTION AREA AT THE LODGE -- CLASSY AND COZY.
BREAKFAST SPREAD AT THE LODGE.
MY SPACIOUS ROOM HAD A PRIVATE PATIO.
THE FOOD AT THE LODGE RESTUARANT WAS BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED. ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS IS??!
THE GROUNDS AT THE LODGE HAD A LARGE GARDEN DEDICATED TO ORCHIDS...IT WAS BEYOND BEAUTIFUL!
I ENJOYED WALKING AROUND THE ORCHID WALK AT THE LODGE...I COULD HAVE SPENT ALL DAY THERE!
EARLY MORNING CLOUDS OVER THE ANDES, AS SEEN FROM THE MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY LODGE GARDENS.
IN THE MAIN SQUARE AT AGUAS CALIENTES, WAITING TO CATCH THE TRAIN FOR MY RETURN TO CUSCO.

Epilogue…


I really enjoyed this trip to Peru —  it exceeded all of my expectations.  I am most grateful for the kind and humble Peruvians I had the good fortune to meet while I was there.  And to experience first-hand the beautiful ruins I had read about from my classes at Texas State was a dream come true.  I am also grateful for the love and support of my wife Dorothy, and for the financial resources that we are blessed with that allow me to take trips such as this.  This was my first extended international trip on my own, and I was quite proud of my performance.  Who knows what lays ahead for this old man?  Stay tuned to this blog and find out!  Blessings to you and yours, and may God Bless Peru!  Tom McC