The Price Is Wright — A Spring, 2023, Frank Lloyd Wright Excursion
Prologue…
In December of 2022, Dorothy and I decided to take a trip to Nashville, Tennessee, to see Sean Dietrich’s debut at the Grand Ole Opry. We decided to visit some Frank Lloyd Wright sites in the process of going and coming. This little blog will highlight the sites we visited on this trip. The highlight of the FLW sites was our two-night stay at the Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma, hence, the title of the blog. I hope you enjoy the photos of these unique structures! I have presented them in the chronological order that we visted them on our little trip. First up is the Rosenbaum Residence, in Florence Alabama, at which we stopped on the way to Nashville.
Site #1: The Stanley and Mildred Rosenbaum Residence, Florence, AL (Thursday, March 23, 2023)
The first FLW site we visited on our trip was the Rosenbaum Residence, located at 601 Riverview, Florence, Alabama. This beautiful Usonian home was built in 1939 and added on to (almost doubled in size) in 1948. The City of Florence purchased the home from the family in 1999, and it is now open to the public. Our tour cost us only $5.00 per person ($10.00 is the non-senior rate), and lasted about an hour. We enjoyed seeing this house, and the restoration and upkeep of the structure is very nice. It sits beautifully located on a large wooded lot which enjoys a considerable slope behind the house, providing nice views from the common rooms. I visited the house on the late afternoon and early evening of Wednesday, March 22, 2023, so I could take some night photographs of the house. Dorothy and I took our tour at 10:00 a.m. the next morning. Here are a few photographs of the Rosenbaum House. For a more complete gallery of photos, look here. To see all of the FLW sites we have visited, go here.
Site #2: The Russell and Ruth Kraus Residence, Kirkwood (St. Louis), MO (Saturday, March 25, 2023)
After attending Sean Dietrich’s Friday night debut performance at the Grand Ole Opry, and his afterparty as well, we were up early on Saturday heading to St. Louis, Missouri, for a 1:00 p.m. tour of the Russell and Ruth Kraus Residence. The house is located at 120 N. Ballas Road, which is in Ebsworth Park. The house is leased to the non-profit Frank Lloyd Wright House in Ebsworth Park, which manages the house and provides tours. In late January, I had booked, paid for ($20 per person), and confirmed our tour date and time. When I booked our tour, the folks at Ebsworth Park sent me a link to a video about the house which they encouraged us to watch before we arrived for the tour. The non-profit has a beautiful website (link above) that tells the story of Russell (an artist) and Ruth (an attorney) and their love of all things Frank Lloyd Wright and the house and furnishings he designed for them. The tour took about two hours. The house is beautifully restored as are all the furnishings and fixtures. Mr. & Mrs. Kraus kept the house exactly as Wright designed it, and, before making any changes during construction, always sought his approval. This is a very impressive house, and I am grateful that we got to experience it! Below are a few photographs I took during our visit. For a more complete gallery of photos I took, look here. I hope you enjoy my photos and comments!
Site #3: Community Christian Church, Kansas City, KS (Sunday, March 26, 2023)
I was really looking forward to attending a worship service in this church designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. When we visited the Annie Pfeifer Chapel at Florida Southern College, it was completely empty, and I yearned to see one of these large gathering spaces being used as Wright intended. Community Christian Church of Kansas City afforded us that opportunity, in spades. When we first arrived at the church, about an hour before the service was scheduled to begin, we had the good fortune to ask a lady (whose name was Jonne Rose, and who was obviously leaving the church as she was headed toward the parking garage) where the entrance to the sanctuary was located. That simple question turned into a personal tour of the facility. Jonne was a lifelong member of the church, and had actually been married in the chapel several decades before. She generously showed us around, introduced us to the Senior Pastor, the church custodian (who was a wealth of knowledge), and another lady who was a church historian of sorts. This church is very proud of its history and its association with Frank Lloyd Wright. Its website has some interesting history and tells the story of how FLW came to design their church building in 1940. We had plenty of time before and after the 10:30 a.m. service to explore the facility and take photos. It was a blessing to worship the God of my understanding in this beautiful place, and I shall be forever grateful for the opportunity.
A secondary goal that I hoped to accomplish, during our visit to Community Christian Church, was to experience and photograph FLW’s “Steeple of Light”. I had checked ahead of time and learned that the four high-powered lights that create a beautiful visual display, originating from the dome Wright designed atop the sanctuary, were indeed going to be operating that Sunday night. Accordingly, I booked us a room at a nearby Marriot hotel, and, at dusk, I set out to observe and photograph the display. It was quite impressive, as you can hopefully see. Unfortunately, I inadvertantly invaded the home turf of a lunatic homeless man who spent about 45 minutes yelling at me and threatening me as I tried to enjoy the lights from a park area that was located between our hotel and the church. I eventually had to get a security guard (at a nearby restuarant where Dorothy and I had eaten supper) to escort me back to the hotel, as the deranged homeless man became increasingly menacing and threatening. So I wasn’t able to get the quality of photos I had hoped for, but I did the best I could under the circumstances. Speaking of photos, below are a few that I took on our visit. To see a more complete gallery of my photos of Community Christian Church, look here. I hope you enjoy my photos; we certainly enjoyed our visit!
Site #4: The Frank and Eloise Bott Residence, Kansas City, KS (Sunday, March 26, 2023)
While planning our little trip, I had been in contact with the owners of the Theodore Pappas house in St. Louis. While their house would not be open for visitors until May of 2023, they offerred to help me set up a visit to the Bott house in Kansas City, MO. I am so glad they did. We arranged to meet Homer Williams, the owner, at 1:30 p.m. on Sunday afternoon. Mr. Williams is an architect, and he bought the Bott residence from the original owners 37 years ago. The Bott house is unusual in a couple of respects. First, it is constructed using Wright’s desert masonry technique. The Botts found a farmer in the nearby flint hills of Kansas who had a mile long stone wall, and they were able to purchase stone from him for the masonry work at the residence. The home is also unique because it has a terne metal (lead on steel) roof, with horizontal seams. Mr. Williams, after much research and trial and error, found a rubberized polymer product to overlay the roof (in a color that closely matches the original), in order to address multiple roof leaks. The Bott house is full of custom touches, and contains some unique furniture, both freestanding and built in. The combination of the desert masonry and the Honduran mahogany is stunning. Mr. Williams was also a member of the Taliesin Fellowship for nine years. He was so interesting to talk to, and he was very generous with his knowledge of, and passion for, all things Frank Lloyd Wright. Thank you, Mr. Williams, for allowing us to tour your beautiful home. The cantilevered balcony/terrace off of the living room has stunning views of downtown Kansas City and the Missouri River. The house has an intimate feel, with a couple of built-in, high-back sofas that just beckon for you to settle in, get comfortable, and enjoy the views. The living room also boasts a massive, desert masonry fireplace that is truly the heart of this home. Another unusual feature is the one-of-a-kind tile design in the bathroom off of the gallery leading to the master bedroom. Gold and bittersweet (reddish-orange) hand-cut tiles from Japan are inlaid in beige marblized tile in a unique and stunning design. Very unusual! The house has lots of planters — inside and out. There is a large planter in the corner where the living room transitions into the study, and another one just outside the master bath. And, of course, the Bott house has a unique fretwork pattern displayed throughout. Speaking of the study, Mr. Williams has numerous artifacts displayed, including original Frank Lloyd Wright letters to the Botts about the project. There was a lot of history in this wonderful place! Below are a few of the pictures I took. For a more complete gallery of photos from the Bott house, look here.
Site #5: Harry F. Corbin Education Center, Wichita State University, Wichita, KS (Monday, March 27, 2023)
We left Kansas City Monday morning and headed southeast to Wichita, Kansas and the campus of Wichita State University, where we visited the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Corbin Education Center. The Center consists of two large buildings connected by an esplanade and separated by a plaza with a long, rectangular reflecting pool. The stars of this show are definitely the 60-foot tall light needles that appear out of, and tower over, each of the buildings. In typical Wright fashion, the buildings are adorned with colorful tourquoise accents (like the fascia and the fountain bowl at the head of the reflecting pool). Dorothy and I spent about an hour exploring the Center and enjoyed our time there. Here are a few of the photos we took. For a more complete gallery of photos from this site, look here.
Site #6: The Henry J. Allen Residence, Wichita, KS (Monday Afternoon, March 27, 2023)
After we finished our visit at the Corbin Center on the campus of Wichita State, we drove a short distance over to the Henry J. Allen Residence. We knew that the house would not be open for tours on a Monday, but when I had called them prior to our trip, they advised that it would be ok to stop and look around, even though they would be closed. So we spent about an hour enjoying the views of the outside of this beautiful Prairie style home that Wright designed for Allen, a newspaper editor and publisher, three years before he became the 21st governor of the state of Kansas. We were also able to peek into a couple of windows to see the beautiful foyer and living room, while the outside living room terrace and pool were visible through the perimeter fence. I would love to go back some day to tour the inside of this outstanding Wright design. Here are a few photos from our brief visit. For more photos of the Allen Residence, look here.
Site #7: Price Company Tower for Harold C. Price, Sr., Bartlesville, OK (Monday, March 27- Wednesday March 29, 2023)
We left Wichita, Kansas, on the afternoon of Monday, March 27, 2023 and drove to Bartlesville, Oklahoma, where we checked in to the Inn at Price Tower. I hadn’t been this excited since my visit to Disneyland over 40 years ago! We had reserved a two-floor suite for 2 nights. The living room, dining area, kitchen workspace, and a half bath were on the 11th floor. The two- story glass windows in our suite provided a magnificent view over the downtown area of Bartlesville. The upstairs sleeping area could be reached by a set of stairs, or by elevator. The upstairs, located on the 12th floor, had two queen sized beds, a desk, and a full bath. The furnishings in the rooms were designed by Wendy Joseph Evans, who was commissioned in 2001 to design furnishings for the Price Inn, since most of the original furniture items from the guest apartments/rooms were disposed of when Phillips Petroleum bought the building from the Price Family. It was kind of like sleeping inside a piece of history!
After check-in, we took the elevator up to our suite on the 11th floor, and deposited our luggage in the suite. After exploring our suite, we freshened up a bit before heading out for dinner. On the way down to our car we stopped at the mezzanine level on the second floor of the building, and did a quick walk through of the wonderful museum located there. We then drove a short distance through downtown and went to the Painted Horse Bar and Grill where we enjoyed a wonderful steak dinner.
After dinner, we returned to the Price Tower. I decided to take some night shots of the building, with mixed results. I also drove over to “Hillside”, the residence that FLW designed for the Harold Price Jr. family in 1953. I had hoped to get some night photos of the residence from the street, but it was not visible at all. For a video showcase of Hillside, look here. It is an amazing, amazing house!
Tuesday morning we took “The Extended Tour” with one of the Price Tower Docents. This tour started in the lobby of Price Tower, with general information and history of the building. Then we walked over to the Bartlesville Community Center, which was designed by Wes Peters, one of Wright’s most accomplished apprentices. It was an impressive facility in its own right, and, as you might expect, had many of the typical design features that Wright is known for. Between the Community Center and our walk back to Price Tower, we visited Unity Square, which sits between the two structures. What a beautiful urban space!
Upon our return to the Tower, we toured Mr. Price’s office (located on the top floor) and the guest apartment (located on the floor below), both of which still had the original furniture and murals. We very much enjoyed the tour. As is usual with a Wright tour, our guide was knowleable and passionate. That afternoon, we spent more time in the museum, which is located on the second floor, above the lobby area. On Tuesday evening, we had a tasty dinner in the Copper Restuarant, located in the lobby of the Price Inn. As we settled in for our second night in our suite at the Price Inn, we were grateful for the opportunity to spend so much time enjoying this priceless piece of FLW history. Here are a few photos from the our tour and the second day of our visit. To see much more complete galleries of our Price Tower photos, look here.
Site #8: Gloria Bachman and Abraham Wilson (Bachman-Wilson) Residence, Bentonville, AK (Wednesday, March 29, 2023)
We left the friendly confines of Price Tower and Bartlesville, Oklahoma, on the morning of Wednesday, March 29, 2023 and headed toward Bentonville, Arkansas. We stopped off in Tulsa for a memorable drive-by visit to the Richard Lloyd Jones House and a BBQ lunch. We made it to the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in plenty of time for our 2:30 p.m. tour appointment at the Bachman-Wilson House. I am sad to report that, although I had high hopes for this last site on our itinerary, we were disappointed. First, they did not allow photography inside the house, and, the web page I visited to book our tour tickets, failed to mention it. Also, they would not allow access to the second floor bedrooms and balconies, which were some of the most interesting and unique elements of this design. But, I don’t want you you get the wrong idea. I am glad I got to see this home. The house has an interesting story and history, having been moved to Arkansas from a site above a river in New Jersey. And, like all of Wright’s Usonian designs, there are many quirky little details that were fun to see and learn about. For example, while most Usonian homes have a fretwork design that is unique to that home, on the Bachman-Wilson house, FLW re-used the design he had created for the John E. Christian Residence in West Lafayette, IN in 1951. The Christian home was named “Samara”. A samara is the “winged seed” of the pine tree. As one moves around the living room, the winged seed opens and closes. Our tour guide didn’t mention this, but it is contained in the 4th edition of Storrer’s Complete Catalogue. Here are a few photos from our visit. For a more complete gallery of photos, look here.
Epilogue…
We enjoyed this trip, and are grateful that we have the resources and good health to journey to interesting places like we visited. We returned home safely, with visions of more Frank Lloyd Wright structures in our future! Yes, there is more to come, but, fear not, we will keep you posted!
Leave a Comment