
Unfinished Business — A Little Rock Art Excursion
Prologue…
After I returned from my trip to Scotland, I began thinking about my travel and adventure schedule for the rest of 2025. The first decision I made was to cancel my planned trip to Mexico in November. Although my plumbing systems performed admirably in Scotland and I encountered zero problems with my health, I was still very concerned about my Mexico plans. To reach the cave paintings in the remote Sierra San Francisco mountains of the central Baja peninsula, a two-day to three-day mule ride (in and out) is required. Since there are no medical facilities in this isolated mountainous region, I felt it wise to cancel my trip. While I am hopeful all the problems ancillary to my prostate cancer are behind me, it would be disasterous to need medical help while on such a trip.
After cancelling my Mexico trip, my thoughts turned to my Wisconsin friend Richard, and our tentative plans to revisit northwest Arizona sometime in this fall. In short order, we determined that conflicts would prevent a fall trip, so we decided to wait until the spring of 2026 to return to Arizona. I had recently learned that the Utah Rock Art Research Association (URARA) had scheduled a three-day field trip to Mesa Prieta and the Santa Fe area of New Mexico for late September. I had also learned that Jared Roberts, an old acquaintence from my Texas State days,was now the Project Archaeologist at Mesa Prieta. And, perhaps most importantly, I had unfinished business to tend to on Bajada Mesa (my unsuccessful search for a special petroglyph in June, 2025). I also decided to revisit Bluff, Utah on the back end of this little trip. It had been a long time since I had been to Bluff, and I had some unfinished business there as well. My primary goals for the Four Corners were: get a proper photo of the Big Crane, visit the sites on Moss Back Butte and the western part of Natural Bridges National Monument, and make the drive up to Wooden Shoe Canyon and visit The Doll House. I also hoped to get to chance to see my old friend Vaughn Hadenfeldt while in the area. So, the outline of a trip was born.
Getting There…
I left Fair Oaks Ranch near Boerne on Thursday, September 25, 2025, after attending a function at my grandson J.D.’s school — a Grandparents Appreciation Breakfast. I originally had thought about driving straight through to Santa Fe, but, after falling asleep at the wheel last summer and totaling my Subaru Outback, I am a little leary of making extremely long drives by myself. So, I broke up the drive by spending the night in Clovis, New Mexico. I was up early on the morning of Friday,September 26, 2025, and, at 10:00 a.m. found myself on Bajada Mesa outside of Santa Fe, preparing to hike in search of the the special petroglyph that had eluded me the prior June.
Success at Bajada and a Visit to La Cienguilla…
I am happy to report that, unencumbered by a foley catheter and in possession of my binoculars, this time I found the petroglyph I was looking for. I promised the gentleman that told me about this special petroglyph that I would not mention its name, publish a picture of it or provide any location details, so you will have to take my word for it — it is indeed a wonderful work of rock imagery set in a splendid landscape. After finishing up on top of Bajada Mesa, I decided to spend the rest of my afternoon by revisiting the La Cienguilla site, located on the eastern talus of the mesa. I spent several hours there, and, as is usually the case at these large complex sites, saw some rock imagery that had eluded me on previous visits. I was also able to take some pictures of panels in favorable late afternoon light. A very enjoyable afternoon! A few of the pictures I took are below, but for a more complete gallery of photos from this visit, look here.











Return to Mesa Prieta… (Day One, URARA Field Trip)
My first visit to Mesa Prieta was in July of 2019 — hard to believe it has been over six years ago. I was looking forward to visiting the site again and catching up with Jared Roberts. I was supposed to meet the URARA group at 8:45 a.m. on Saturday, September 27, 2025. As is my custom, I arrived very early and had a pleasant walk along the Rio Grande River and the road to the southwest of the petroglyph preserve. At the appointed time, we met our two docents (and Jared Roberts, Project Archaeologist) at the parking area for the Preserve. Our URARA group split into two smaller groups, and I chose the group that Jared Roberts accompanied. Although I didn’t really see any new rock art on the tour (other than a flute player), it was a beautiful day and it was great to visit with Jared.







In addition to more standard flute players, Mesa Prieta also has at least one zoomorph flute player, pictured below. Our guide/docent mentioned that this particular petroglyph is also a solar equinox marker. I have provided a link below to a video that the Mesa Prieta Petroglyph Project posted on their YouTube channel which explains this special petroglyph and how the solar marker works.

After our formal tour concluded, I spent a good portion of the remainder of the afternoon driving roads near the Mesa, looking for petroglyphs. I saw a number of interesting panels from the road, all on private land. Below are a few photos that I took from the road. For a more complete gallery of photos that I took at Mesa Prieta that day, look here.






Jared Roberts and I had agreed to meet at Rancho de Chimayo for dinner, so, after driving the roads around the Mesa for a while, I headed back to my hotel in Santa Fe to freshen up and rest for a bit. Britt Bousman had taken our field school to Rancho de Chimayo in 2016, and I was looking forward to the excellent food at that beautiful establishment. On the way back out to meet Jared for dinner, I was running a little early, so I stopped at Sanctuario de Chimayo (which I first visited while on a rock art trip in 2022) to say some prayers for those that I love (especially my wife and grandchildren). It was serene and beautiful, and soothed my soul. Afterward, I had an excellent dinner with Jared, and enjoyed hearing about his work and plans for the future at the Mesa Prieta Petroglyph Project. A very nice day, indeed!



The Red Dot Trail Into White Rock Canyon… (Sunday, September 28, 2025)
I was excited when I saw that the Red Dot Trail was on the itinerary for the URARA Field Trip. In June of 2025, I had planned to hike this trail, but a medical problem derailed those plans. Our group met at the trailhead, which is located in a residential area along the rim of White Rock Canyon, south of the Rio Grande Gorge and near Los Alamos, New Mexico. I must admit that I found this hike to be quite a challenge — especially the hike back up to the rim during the afternoon heat! But our efforts were rewarded with some spectacular views and some interesting petroglyphs.





There were a number of petroglyphs and one pictograph visible along the upper portion of the trail. We did not hike all the way down to the river, but went off trail in search of petroglyphs. The petroglyphs along the trail were mundane, while the ones that required bushwhacking off trail were more numerous and complex. Below are a few of the photos I took of some of the petroglyphs. For a more comprehensive gallery of photos from that day, look here.










Sagrada and Cottonwood Preserves… (Monday, September 29, 2025)
Another reason I was attracted to the URARA Field Trip was the opportunity to experience two relatively new Conservancy properties. Its website has a video about these two new acquisitions in the Mesa Prieta area…
The last day of our URARA field trip was spent exploring these two small preserves in the Mesa Prieta area that were recently acquired by the Archaeological Conservancy. Our first stop was at The Sagrada Jardin de Piedra Preserve (Sagrada) (translation “Sacred Rock Garden”), a 53-acre tract that contains a number of decorated shields. This tract is on the Chama River side of the Mesa, whereas the Mesa Prieta Preserve and the Cottonwood Preserve (which we visited after Sagrada) are on the Rio Grand River side of the Mesa. April Brown, the Southwest Regional Director for the Archaeological Conservancy, served as our guide on this morning. Below are a few of the photos that I took that morning. For a more complete gallery of photos that I took at this site, look here.



After a nice visit to Sagrada, we headed over to Cottonwood Preserve. We were met by John Kincheloe, who is the site steward, and Patty, another of the knowledgeable and passionate docents. John is a retired college professor, author, flute player, and all around nice guy. John was very generous with his time — his comments and insights made for a very enjoyable visit to this small, 10-acre site. Below are a few of my photos. For a more complete gallery of photos I took that day, look here.





The visit to Cottonwood Preserve was the end of the URARA Field Trip. I would like to thank Robert and his wife Tina for leading our group for three days — they did a great job, and their efforts made for an enjoyable trip. I would highly recommend that you consider joining the Utah Rock Art Research Association and go on some of their field trips; they are so enjoyable!
I would also like to thank April Brown and the Archaeological Conservancy, for acquiring and protecting these culturally significant sites. I have decided to join the Conservancy and to start making yearly contributions to them from my 401K, and would ask you to consider doing the same. Thank you, April, and all of your cohorts at the Conservancy!
On To Bluff, Utah…
After finishing up at Cottonwood, I headed north to Bluff, Utah. I enjoyed the five-hour drive up to Bluff, especially the stunning sunset that graced the landscape near the end of my drive. I arrived at the Recapture Lodge in time to walk across the street for some Bar-B-Que at The Canyon Smokehouse. I consider myself somewhat of a Bar-B-Que aficionado, and I found the food there quite good! Bluff has a couple of new hotels (Bluff Dwellings & Desert Rose) but I prefer the old-school, homey comfort of the Recapture Lodge. In days past, I would have just camped somewhere along Butler Wash Road, but, as I grow older, I enjoy my rudimentary comforts!
One of the reasons I decided to include a visit to Bluff in this little trip was to drop in and catch up with my old friend, Vaughn Hadenfeldt. It turns out my planning was poor, because Vaughn and his wife Marcia have been staying in Durango, Colorado so he can receive some medical treatments. I wish I could have seen them in person, but it was good to catch up and, perhaps most importantly, let them know that they were in my thoughts (and prayers).
The second reason I decided to visit Bluff was to address some unfinished rock art and ruins business. I wanted to get a proper photograph of the Big Crane; I wanted to visit Mossback Butte and the sites in the western part of the Natural Bridges National Monument canyons; and (last but not least) I wanted to drive out to Wooden Shoe Canyon above the Bears Ears and visit the Doll House. So, bright and early the next morning, I set out to work on my list. As you will see, I also revisited some old friends (Wolfman, Sand Island, House on Fire, & Edge of the Cedars Museum) along the way.
The Wolfman Panel & Ruins, The Big Crane and The Doll House…. (Tuesday, September 30, 2025)
I left the Recapture Lodge early on the morning of Tuesday, September 30, 2025 and headed for Butler Wash Road. I went to the permit station, which is about a mile from the highway, and paid my $5.00 for a one-day permit. Since the permit station is very near the trailhead for the Wolfman site, I decided to head over there first. It was good to make the short hike on an old cattle trail down to the shelf where the site is located, and to spend some time with the Wolfman.




The photos above were taken with my cellphone, but I also took some photos with my Nikon D500 that morning, which I will post on the Wolfman Gallery page along with a few more cell phone photos.
After my time at the Wolfman, I decided to hike to the little ruin that is not far from the rock art panel but located on the other side of the wash. It was not a difficult hike, and I am glad I finally did it. The site is not large but has some interesting features, structures, and a little rock art. Below are a few of my photos. For a more complete gallery of photos I took at this ruin, look here.







From the Wolfman site, I headed north on Butler Wash Road. It didn’t take long for me to find myself at the trailhead for The Big Crane. In early June of 2018, I attempted to find this site, walking the entire length of the canyon seemingly without success, until I got home and spotted the petroglyph on a wide shot of one of the canyon walls. I was determined to make the second time a charm, and it was. I finally was going to get a proper photograph of this wonderful site. The hike through and over the wash, then up across the slickrock was under beautiful blue skies with brilliant high white and wispy clouds, a great morning for a little hike!

Comb Ridge, under a beautiful blue sky and cool temperatures, was a real treat, and I don’t think I have ever felt more alive. In no time, I found my self heading up the small shelf that runs along the north side of the canyon to the Big Crane petroglyph. Since my prior “visit” to this site in early June of 2018 was after the fact, by means of a photograph, I didn’t realize how high up this site is and what a commanding view the Big Crane has from its perch. I took my time taking a lot of photographs, both with my cell phone and my D500 on a tripod. I feel like I accomplished my goal of finally getting a proper photograph of this site. Below are a few photos from that lovely day. For a more complete collection of my Big Crane photos, look here.






After spending time with the Big Crane, I had a leisurely hike back to my truck. Decision time. Where do I go next? Since it was such a beautiful day, I decided to spend the afternoon driving up past the Bears Ears to the Doll House. The 26 miles of forest road that have to be negotiated to reach the Doll House can only be done in good weather. It doesn’t take much precipitation to make these roads impassable, and it certainly didn’t look like there was going to be any rain on this day. So off I went to the Doll House.






There were a few muddy and tedious spots on the road out to the Doll House, but nothing extreme. The last mile, however, definitely required the use of my 4 wheel drive — it was fun, kind of like a carnival ride! Anyway, the long drive (it took me over 2 hours to cover the 26 miles past the Bears Ears) was worth it. The Doll House is lovely and pristine. The alcove that houses the Doll House almost looks custom made. I am grateful that I finally got to experience this beautiful place! In 2007, tree ring dating showed that the Doll House was constructed in the late spring of AD 1233, and underwent a major roof repair 10 years later, in the spring of AD 1243. This structure was basically a large granary that protected corn (yes, the Ancestral Puebloans were able to grow corn at an elevation of 8,000 feet!) from the weather and from pests. Ceramic analysis indicates the people who built and used this granary structure lived above on the mesa in a multi-room masonry structure. It is certainly a special place, and I thoroughly enjoyed spending time there. Below are a few photos. To see a more complete collection of the photos I took during my visit, look here.




After my visit to the Doll House, I headed back to Bluff. Since I am currently doing intermittent fasting, I had not eaten all day and was more than ready for some grub. I decided to try out Duke’s at the Desert Rose Resort on Main Street, and it turned out to be an excellent choice. I had the crab stuffed avocado, a salad, and a bowl of califlower soup. It was very good and filled me up!

Challenging Moss Back Butte and A Nice Hike To The Shoe… (Wednesday, October 1, 2025)
For a number of years, I have wanted to find the petroglyphs in the area of Moss Back Butte, which is just across Highway 95 from Natural Bridges National Monument. The problem was I could not figure out where they are located, and Moss Back Butte is huge. A few months back, a friend told me they could be accessed by parking at an old abandoned gravel pit and hiking up a boulder talus. My friend said the petroglyphs were “on a wide bench just beneath the rim (at the top of the boulder talus)”. So, I was up early and drove to the abandoned gravel pit, arriving just as the sun was coming up. I set out for the boulder talus, which didn’t look that difficult at a distance.


From near the bottom of the boulder talus, I used my binoculars to scout out a route going up. It appeared to me the left side would be better (i.e., easier), so that is what I set out to do. Over the course of the next several hours, I climbed, hopped, weaved, and navigated as I slowly made my way up. It was a challenge for this old man, and, several times, I thought about turning around. I finally made it to the first shelf, which was actually kind of a bowl — it took me a while to find a way up to the next shelf, which was much wider, and appeared to be just below the rim. There were lots of rocks with dark patinas and I kept expecting to spot my first petroglyph, but I never did. As it got close to 2 pm, I gave up the hunt. It was scenic at the top, but discouraging. Fortunately, climbing down went much quicker! Sometimes, it is not meant to be, so I said goodbye to Moss Back Butte and its hidden treasures.






Although profoundly disappointed at not finding any petroglyphs in the Moss Back Butte area, I still had a few hours of useable daylight, so I decided to head over to Natural Bridges and hike to the Shoe. I stopped at the Visitor’s Center but it was locked up tight, with a sign saying that it was closed due to the government shut down. There was no indication that the main gate would, or would not be locked that evening, which left me in a tedious position — not wanting to get locked in over night. Nevertheless, I drove to the Owachomo Bridge trailhead and headed down into the canyon, walking underneath the bridge.

After walking under Owachomo Bridge, I headed right in Armstrong Canyon, toward a prominent rock formation on the canyon rim, known as the Shoe. The first part of the hike was along a ledge above the canyon floor, which looked muddy and overgrown. Eventually, the trail did lead down onto the canyon floor, and route finding became a little more difficult as the trail crossed back and forth on the canyon floor several times before the Shoe finally came into view. While this trail was not especially difficult, it is not a maintained trail, and one has to be careful with footing and with making sure you are still on the right trail. By the time I got to the Shoe, I knew I was very tight on time. I still had to find a way up to the ledge just below the rock formation where the pictographs and ruins are located — it is not exactly bushwacking, yet there is not a primary or designated trail either, so I knew it would take some time to get up there and then more time to explore and photograph the site. So, not wanting to risk getting locked into the park overnight, I hustled back to the trailhead and my truck and left the park right at 5:00 o’clock p.m.



I headed back to Bluff and tried to soothe my wounded ego by returning to Duke’s for a nice dinner of stuffed avocado, brussel sprouts, and a capreze salad. After a hot shower, I slept like a baby!
My Last Full Day in Bluff… (Thursday, October 2, 2025)
Wanting to make the most of my last full day of hiking and exploring, and to make amends for my poor results the prior day, I headed out from the Elvis Presley Suite at the Recapture Lodge very early and arrived at Natural Bridges National Monument just as the sun was about to peak over the Bears Ears. I was encouraged to see the gate appeared to have remained open overnight, and I headed directly to the Owachomo Trailhead. Having made the hike the day before, I made short work of getting to the Shoe, and safely made my way up to the site, still in the soft light of the early morning. I enjoyed experiencing this little site, and it is now one of my favorites in this park. Here are a few of my cell phone pictures from that visit. To see a more complete gallery of my photos, including those taken with my Nikon D500, look here.





There is a weather proof ammo can at The Shoe site that contains a visitor register and some information about the site. It had been a while since I had run across one of these at a site, and I thought you might like to see it. The information sheet explains why the rangers won’t tell you about these sites — I wish I had a dollar for every time I asked, sometimes just to watch them as they looked you in the eye and lied!

After a lovely time introducing myself to The Shoe, I high-tailed it back to my truck, once again enjoying Owachomo Arch in the early morning sun. I headed out of the park and took Highway 95 to the pull out area just outside the western boundary of Natural Bridges (just past mile marker 81), and parked my truck. During my research for this trip, I learned of a small site that I had never heard of, near my parking spot. The small site is a single large boulder with some petroglyphs — for reasons that are beyond my intellect, the site is called Atomic Rock. To see a small gallery of more pictures of this small site, look here.

After taking a few photos at Atomic Rock, I walked a short distance to the Natural Bridges boundary fence and, after crawling under the fence, followed an old jeep trail into the park. After a while, I came to a slick rock area and knew I was getting close to the Red Bear site. The large boulder that is home to the Red Bear soon came into view. It was not much trouble to drop down to the site so that I could enjoy the large pictograph up close and personal. The panel has seen better days and is now beginning to look quite faded; however, it is still an interesting pictograph, and I am glad I finally got to see it. Below are a few of the photographs I took of the Red Bear that morning. For a complete gallery of my photos from the site, look here.



After spending some time with the Red Bear, I hiked to the west along the shelf and around a point until I got to the The Remnant site. It was about 20 minutes of easy walking on the shelf along a trail that was simple to follow. This is an interesting little site — the pictograph panel above the small ruin was once much larger, but natural processes have destroyed much of the original rock art so that only a “remnant” remains, directly above the little ruin. To the right of the ruin and the remnant, you can see the remains of another pictograph, that was probably part of the the original, very large panel. Here are a few photos from my visit. For a more complete gallery of my photos of The Remnant, look here.



My original plan was to hike back up to the rim from the Remnant Site and walk to my truck without back tracking to the Red Bear site. But when I realized I had left a good pair of reading glasses at the Red Bear, I decided to hike back there to retrieve the glasses and then hike to my truck on the old jeep trail that I had followed on my hike in.


I made it safely back to my truck, and decided to head back to Blanding so I could visit the Dinosaur Museum and pick up some dinosaur t-shirts for my grandson, J.D. As I headed back east toward Blanding, I realized I would have time to stop at House on Fire and still make it to the museum before it closed that afternoon — so that is what I did. Although I missed the prime time of day to photograph the House on Fire by more than a couple of hours (which, if I recall correctly, is around 11:00 a.m. each day), it still looked pretty good when I stopped by — and looked even better when I got home and looked at my Nikon photos on the large screen of the computer, even without much processing in Lightroom. The canyon looked lush on my visit, with lots of water from recent rains. Below are a couple of pictures I took at House on Fire that day. I will also add more pictures from this visit on my House on Fire Gallery page.



As I neared Blanding, I thought about how many times in the past I had driven past the billboard advertising the Dinosaur Museum, and wondered what it was like — I was about to find out! This facility far exceeded my expectations, and I enjoyed the time I spent there. I do hope that someday I can take little J.D. there in person; he will be in dinosaur heaven! To see a more complete gallery of photos from my visit to the museum, look here.


Wanting to get the most of the last full day of my trip, I headed over to the Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum. It had been many years since I had first visited this museum, so I thought a second visit was in order. I spent the next hour and a half at the museum, visiting the indoor exhibits as well as the outdoor exhibits. Here are a few photos from my visit. For a more complete gallery of photos I took that day at Edge of the Cedars, look here.




After finishing up at the Edge of Cedars Museum, I headed toward Bluff. When I arrived in Bluff, I decided to head over to Sand Island, since I had a little over an hour’s worth of daylight left in my day. I had heard that the new Bluff River Trail had a section along the eastern part of Sand Island where some nice petroglyphs are located, and I hoped that the new section of trail might make the petroglyphs easier to see and photograph. It turns out the new section of trail, identified as the Sand Island Loop, did make some of the petroglyphs more accessible and easier to see since some of the brush and tree limbs had been cleaned out. The trail also had some very nice interpretive signs as well. Here is a map of the Bluff River Trail and a few of the photos I took that evening. I will post more photos from that day on the Sand Island Gallery page.






When the light got so poor that I could no longer get photos, I headed back to the Recapture Lodge and started packing for my anticipated departure early the next morning. I also walked across the street for some of that delicious Bar-B-Que!

The Trip Home… (October 3 & 4, 2025)
I left Bluff early on the morning of Friday, October 3, 2025, headed for Clovis, New Mexico, where I would spend the night. The drive was uneventful, and the only stop I made was in Waterflow, New Mexico to photograph some of the petroglyphs along Highway 64. Here are a couple of my photos from Waterflow. For a few more photos I took that morning, see the Waterflow Gallery page.


I made it to the Clovis area in the late afternoon, so I decided to stop by Eastern New Mexico University in Portales and check out the Blackwater Draw Museum, which is on the campus. I had been to the Blackwater Draw Type Site with Britt Bousman’s field school back in 2016, but we didn’t make it over to the museum. I spent a couple of hours at the museum and thoroughly enjoyed it. It is not a particularly large or extravagant museum, but the story it tells is so important! Here are a few photos of my visit. For a more complete gallery of photos I took that day, look here.






Home Sweet Home… (Saturday, October 4, 2025)
I left Clovis, New Mexico, early on the morning of Saturday, October 4, 2025 and made it home safely that afternoon. On the way, I stopped in Fair Oaks Ranch to deliver my grandson the items I had bought him at the Dinosaur Museum. J.D. was delighted, as he loves to wear t-shirts that have anything to do with dinosaurs!
Postscript….
I enjoyed this little trip. I got to take care of some unfinished business in the rock art department. I got to visit two of my favorite places (Santa Fe and Bluff) and the beautiful landscapes that surround them. My friend Vaughn Hadenfeldt continues to fight the good fight and seemed to be in good spirits; I am very grateful for that. I am also grateful that my wife Dorothy allows me still to take trips like this, as it keeps getter tougher for her as her health declines. I am also supremely grateful for the good health and resources that I am blessed to enjoy — thank you God! So, don’t give up on me Moss Back Butte, I intend to visit you again and again, until I unlock your secrets. Cheers! Tom McCoppin, October 21, 2025