Savoring Scotland– Castles, Cathedrals, Chambered Cairns and Cullen Skink

 

 

Part Two:  Border Abbeys, Edinburgh, Stirling, Linlithgow and Into The Highlands

 

Tuesday, July 15, 2025: An Early Morning Golf Adventure and Exploring Traquair House & The Border Abbies (South of Edinburgh)

On the drive to Dirleton, I couldn’t help but notice some golf courses and some directional signage for the Scottish Open.  That evening I looked at Google Maps and saw that several courses, including the Renaisance Club where the Scottish Open was played the week before, and  the Links at Muirfield, appeared to be within walking distance of my hotel.  So a little after 4:00 a.m. on Tuesday morning, July 15, 2025.  I set out on foot from the Open Arms, bound for the Muirfield Links.  I had plugged in “Murfield Links” on Google Maps, and, as luck would have it, the Google led me to a beach access point in the far northwest corner of the Murfield Property.  I thought that best case scenario I would be able to get a peek at the course through the fence, but I eventually found a way to access the property near the maintenance facility, and had a nice early morning stroll across the course to the iconic clubhouse and 18th green.  By the clubhouse I met a very nice lady who directed me to a gate near the main entrance to the club and I made good my escape.  

On my walk back to my hotel that morning, I walked part of the John Muir Trail, and I walked past the entrance to the Renasaince Club, where the Scottish Open had just been held.  For more photos of my morning golf walk, look at this gallery page.   At the hotel I decided to have a nice breakfast of Eggs Benedict, since I had already walked almost six miles that morning!

After a quick breakfast Brian and I headed south to visit Traquair House, billed as Scotland’s oldest inhabited house.  The drive of about 42 miles took us a little over an hour.  Traquair House has been inhabited for over 900 years and the estate is comprised of approximately 4,500 acres near the River Tweed.  Originally Traquair was a hunting lodge for the kings and queens of Scotland, and, according to their website, 27 monarchs have passed through its doors over the years.  I enjoyed our tour through the house and grounds —  lots of interesting tales related to this historic home and estate.  Below are a few photos I took that day.  For more photos of this beautiful and historic estate, see my Traquair House Gallery page. 

After a pleasant visit to Traquair House, we headed East for about 25 miles to Dryburgh Abbey.  This Abbey was founded in the mid 1100s and, due to its location near the border with England, it suffered devastating attacks by English armies, beginning in 1322.  An attack in 1544 was the final blow, and the abbey was abandoned.  Dryburgh was the first Premonstratensian abbey in Scotland.  The Order of Premonstratensians was also known as the white canons, based on the color of their habits.  They were not monks but regular canons (priests who lived together in community and followed a regula, or rule).  The Whithorn Priory in the far southwest, which we visited on Sunday, was also a Premonstratensian establishment.  Walking around the ruins, I could sense the peace and tranquility of the cloistered life.  Of special note, Dryburgh is the final resting place of Sir Walter Scott, who chose to be laid to rest there on September 26, 1832.  Dryburgh is also home to the Dryburgh Yew, considered to be one of the most important trees in Scotland.  One final note about Dryburgh —  it contains the only fully preserved Chapter house in the border abbeys, and the original painted plaster walls can still be enjoyed there.  For a more complete collection of my photos from my visit, see my Dryburgh Abbey Gallery page.  

After our visit to Dryburgh Abbey, we headed west about 8 miles to Melrose Abbey, another border abbey that is also located near the River Tweed.  Unfortunately the remaining structures on the property were off limits (ongoing structural investigations) but we were able to spot the infamous Melrose pig…a sculpture of a pig playing the bagpipes, high up on the outside of the church.  We also saw the location where the heart of Robert the Bruce was supposedly buried.  We spent most of our time at this site in the excellent museum, which had a large number of artifacts displayed and explained.  Below are a few photos I took at Melrose.  For a more complete collection of my photos from this site, look at my Melrose Abbey Gallery page.  

Wednesday, July 16, 2025: Edinburgh Castle, Sights Along The Royal Mile, and The National Museum of Scotland

After a quick breakfast, we said goodbye to the Open Arms Hotel, loaded up our car and headed into Edinburgh.  It took us a little less than an hour to negotiate the 26 mile trip into town.  Once again, Brian’s local knowledge paid off handsomely, as we snagged a prime parking spot near the Edinburgh Castle.  Since the castle did not open until 9:30 a.m. we spent about an hour walking around the area near the entrance to the castle, as Brian pointed out various streets and structures and helped me have a basic understanding of the lay of the land on Castle Hill.  

In short order it was time to enter Edinburgh Castle.  Far Horizons had bought me a membership and explorer pass in Historic Scotland and, thanks to Brian’s local knowledge we were able to get into the castle ahead of most of the large crowd that had aready gathered. Brian immediately took me through Foog’s gate into the upper ward, again, ahead of the massive crowds that were descending upon the castle.  After passing through Foog’s Gate we made a quick stop to admire Mons Meg and St. Margaret’s Chapel, which is the oldest building in Edinburgh, built by David I around 1130.  

From Foog’s gate we walked past the back side of the Scottish War Memorial Building to the entry to Crown Square, where we immediately entered the Royal Palace.  After visiting Laich Hall and the magnificent Scottish royal coat of arms located there, we went into the Crown Room, a secure area that houses the Honours of Scotland— the Crown, the Sceptre and the Sword of State.  In this area other royal jewelry is also displayed (The Stewart Jewels and the Lorne Jewels) as was the Stone of Destiny, which was moved to the Perth Museum last year.  No photos were allowed in this secure area, and that is a shame, because the Crown Jewels are stunning indeed!

After our visit with the Crown Jewels, we exited the palace and entered the Great Hall, which houses a spectacular collection of military arms and armour.  The Great Hall is also known for its oak hammerbeam roof, supported by beautiful stone corbels carved with the oldest surviving Renaissance symbols in Britian.  From the Great Hall we crossed over to The Scottish National War Memorial for a rather somber visit, including the Shrine, a steel casket that contains the complete Roll of Honour of all the Scottish dead killed in wars.  Out of respect, I took no photos inside the War Memorial.  By the way, in medieval times this building housed the castle church of St. Mary and later the Royal Chapel.  By the time we got out of the War Memorial, a massive crowd of tourists had made it to Crown Square and hundreds were queued up to get into the palace to see the Crown Jewels — so glad that Brian made sure we got in ahead of them!  From there we made our way back down Castle Hill pausing along the way to enjoy the wonderful views of Edinburgh and New Town from the Castle.  On the way down we passed through Foog’s Gate, The Portcullis Gate (below The Argyle Tower), and finally, out the Gatehouse, with its bronze statutes of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace set into facade on eithe side of the gate.  Each August The Royal Military Tattoo performs on the Esplanade in front of the Gatehouse and massive temporary stands are set up for the performances.  There are performances for several weeks in August, with the Tattoo presenting military bands, display teams, and performers from around the world.  (On the plane ride home I sat next to a young man who had seen “The Who” in concert at Edinburgh Castle the week before my arrival in Scotland!).  As we exited, the Esplanade was filled with hundreds of people waiting to get into the Castle, as you can see from the photo below.  By the way, for a more complete collection of photos I took at the Castle, see my Edinburgh Castle Gallery page.    

Our next destination was the National Museum of Scotland, which was not far from the Castle.  On the way to the museum, we stopped at Greyfriars Kirkyard, said to be a source of inspiration for the writer J.K. Rowling, and home to a statue and fountain that honors “Bobby”, a dog who became a fixture at Greyfriars as he guarded the grave of his owner for 14 years.  

We spent several hours at the National Museum of Scotland, and it was beyond enjoyable.  This museum is beautiful, thoughtfully curated, and just a joy to walk around.  As you might imagine, my focus was on the “Early People” section of the museum and it did not dissappoint.  I got to see the original Towie Ball, the Lewis Chessmen and a beautiful collection of carved stone slabs and crosses.  Of course, there was lots more to see.  For a more complete collection of photos I took that day, look at my National Museum of Scotland Gallery page. 

The carved slabs and crosses on display at the National Museum helped me understand some of the sites I had already visited (Ruthwell, Whithorn, etc.) and some of the sites I would visit later in my trip such as Birdsay and other sites on Orkney.  

We moved on from the modern portion of the Museum to the older adjacent building, which is the former Royal Scottish Museum which was begun in 1861 and opened in 1866.  This building has a beautiful Victorian Venetian Renaissance facade and a grand central hall of cast orpmconstruction that rises the full height of the building.  This building has a much more whimsical feel to it and the collections and displays are quite eclectic.  We didn’t spend much time there, but did enjoy a break downstairs in the very nice cafe.  

After finishing up at the National Museum of Scotland, we headed back to the Royal Mile and strolled down to the end, where the Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace and Abbey are located in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat.  From the end of the Royal Mile, we walked to the Princess Street Gardens and made our way toward the parking garage where our car was located.  The Gardens were created when the Nor Loch (the largest loch in Edinburgh) below Edinburgh Castle was drained.  The Gardens feature 37 acres of green space, with lots of flowers and the iconic Ross Fountain, directly below the Castle.  

Our stroll through the Princess Street Gardens was a pleasant one, away from the hectic crowds of Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile.  We retrieved our car and headed to the northeast toward Stirling.  We drove a little over 40 miles and arrived at Hotel Colessio, which sits at the foot of the hill upon which Stirling Castle sits.  We checked into our rooms, then took a walk up the hill to the Castle, which was closed for the day.  It was a beautiful evening and a beautiful setting, and whetted my appetite for a visit to another “proper castle” the next day!

Thursday, July 17, 2025:  Stirling Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Dunblane Cathedral and Ardoch Fort 

As was my custom on this trip, I was up early for a nice walk before breakfast.  I first explored the Old Town Cemetery located below Stirling Castle.  Of particular note, I enjoyed the “indicator stone” on Ladies Rock and the Martyrs Monument.    I then walked up to the Castle for some photos of the outside that were free of any tourists, or anyone at all for that matter.  A very nice walk!

Brian and I had a nice breakfast after my morning walk, then we loaded our car and headed up to Stirling Castle for a proper tour of this magnificent castle.  It is a beautiful and historic place —  the interiors of the palace and the great hall have been recreated and splendidly decorated and furnished to reflect how the castle would have looked during the years it was Mary Queen of Scots childhood home.  I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this place —  it was indeed my favorite castle of this trip.  I have posted a few of the photos I took that day, but I encourage you to look at all the photos of this magnificent castle on my Stirling Castle Gallery page.

We made our way into the Inner Close, which was the focus of royal life at Stirling Castle.  We toured through the Palace, the King’s Old Building, The Chappel Royal, and the Great Hall.  Each of these buildings was a treat to experience — they are difficult to describe with words, so here are a few pictures.  You will find many more in my gallery!

After our explorations of the buildings in the Inner Close, we wandered around a bit longer, enjoying the amazing views that are available from the castle. 

We finished up at Stirling Castle and headed southeast toward Linlithgow Palace.  This palace is best known for being the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and home to a large fountain, which is one of the oldest in the U.K.  It took us about 45 minutes to negotiate the 21.5 miles to the palace, which was ordered to be built by James I beginning in1424.  Linlithgow Palace was a rest stop of sorts for royals traveling between Stirling Palace and Edinburgh Palace.  The palace was added to over the next couple of hundred years, with a great hall being built (for James I), royal apartments added by James IV,  and the large fountain added by James V in 1538. Today the palace is roofless and in a ruined state, but abundant evidence of its former grandeur is still easy to see.  Brian and I enjoyed a couple of hours at the site.  For a more complete collection of photos I took at this site, see my Linlithgow Palace Gallery page. 

Walking from the palace to our car, we encountered a wedding, just down the street from the outer gateway at Linlithgow.  I found the bagpipes and traditional Scottish dress interesting and enchanting!

After our visit to Linlithgow Palace, we hopped on the M9 and headed northeast toward Dunblane.  It took us about 35 minutes (24 miles) to reach our next destination, Dunblane Cathedral.  Dunblane Cathedral is a rare structure — a Scottish medieval cathedral still in use today.  Although still called a cathedral, it is actually a Presbyterian church.  We took our time enjoying the beautiful woodwork of the screens and choir stalls in the chancel, as well as a large Pictish cross slab located in the north aisle of the nave.  The fact that I was raised as a Presbyterian made this church special for me, and I am delighted that I got to experience it.  For a more complete gallery of photos I took that day, look at my Dunblane Cathedral Gallery page.  

We left Dunblane and headed north into the highlands of Perthshire.  In short order (as in a 20 minute drive on a country road) we arrived at Ardoch Roman Fort, where we spent a few minutes walking around the landscape that remains from the site.  

We left Ardoch Fort and just a few miles up the road made a stop to check out the Muthill Old Church and Tower ruins.  The fine Romanesque Bell Tower dates to the mid 1100s, while the outer walls, arcade and chancel arch were built in the 1400s.  The church was thought to be tied to the Bishops of Dunblane and there are some architectural details in the masonry work at both sites that suggest they were done by the same person.  We didn’t stay long, but enjoyed a walk around the church ruins and surrounding graveyard.  

After leaving the Muthill Old Church and Tower, we traveled about another thirty miles northward into the Perthshire Highlands.  The country roads we traveled wound between the beautiful higlands landscape. 

By early evening we found ourselves crossing the beautiful five arched bridge over the River Tay into Dunkheld and the Atholl Arms Hotel, where we would be spending the night.  After checking in and relaxing a bit we enjoyed a lovely dinner at the hotel, and I was introduced to Cullen Skink — which I found quite tasty!

Froday, July 18, 2025:  St. Mary’s Church Grandtully, Blair Castle & Gardens, The Scottish Crannog Centre, and The Dowans Hotel Whiskey Dinner

Now that we were in the cooler environs of the Scottish Higlands, I started having a small bowl of porridge (with honey and cream) each morning —  a great way to start the day!  After breakfast at Atholl Arms, we headed to the northeast for about 15 miles to visit St. Mary’s Church Grandtully. The painted ceiling at St Mary’s Church is one of only two ecclesiastical surviving painted ceilings from the 1600s in Scotland, and it is quite beautiful!  As I recall, Brian said this church was situated and purposefully nondescript on the outside so that a casual passerby would not know it was a church. 

After our brief visit to St. Mary’s Church, we headed north about 20 miles to Blair Castle and Gardens.  Blair Castle has been home to the Atholl Family (the Stewarts and Murrays of Atholl) for over nineteen generations.  This family has included adventurers and politicians, Jocobites and Royalists, entrepeneurs and agriculturalists, and soldiers and scholars — almost all of which have left their mark on the beautiful castle.  The castle gets its name from its location in Blair Atholl.  “Blair” being a Scottish Gaelic word for “field” or “plain,” referring to the flat land where the castle is located. The castle has always been an important stronghold due to its location and became the ancestral home of the Clan Murray, the Dukes of Atholl.  The estate covers 120,000 acres, while during its heyday, covering over 350,000 acres. The earliest known part of the present castle dates from 1269 (the Medeival Period) and is known as Comyn’s Tower. The original tower had an extension added to it by the 3rd Earl in 1530 to form a Great Hall (the present Dining Room) over a series of vaulted chambers below.  In 1740 the 2nd Duke began to transform the medieval castle into a Georgian house that covers most of the present foot print of Blair Castle.  The 7th Duke commissioned the Edinburgh architects David Bryce and William Burne to remodel the exterior of the castle in the Victorian Period (1860s/70s).  Crenallations and turrets removed during the Georgian period were reinstated, a new entrance hall was erected and a ballroom added. New gates were installed and the latest services including bathrooms, telephones and gas were introduced for the first time.  

 

The thirty rooms of the Castle are filled with art, artifacts, furniture, tapestries, china and an important collection of arms and amour.  A tour of this place is indeed a visual feast!  For a more complete gallery of photos I took at Blair Castle, look here —  but hopefully the following photos give you a sense of the beauty and history that this magnificent castle holds.  

After our tour of the Castle, we walked over to the nine acre walled garden named after the statue of Hercules, which is positioned on a high point next to the garden.  We had an enjoyable walk among the two ponds in the garden, and their series of islands and peninsulas providing shelter for the nesting birds in the form of thatched duck and swan houses. The Chinese bridge joins the point where the long canal pond met the square hercules pond, which was were the family played curling matches when it froze over.  It was all very calming, and very beautiful!

Next stop, The Highland Chocolatier, located back down by Grandtully.  It seems that the Scottish people take their chocolate as seriously as they do their whiskey!  I enjoyed walking around the shop, part of which was an educational exhibit about all things chocolate.  Brian and I enjoyed a small cup of hot chocolate, and I must say, it was lovely!

After an informative and tasty stop at the Highland Chocolatier, we headed toward The Scottish Crannog Centre on Loch Tay, some thirteen miles to the southwest of the choloclate shop.  During the Iron Age some 2,500 years ago there were at least 17 “Crannogs”, which were wooden dwellings built on stilts over the water, on Loch Tay.  Based on results of excavations, a Crannog was reconstructed in 1997 and the Scottish Crannog Centre was born.  Although the original Crannog was destroyed by fire in 2021, the Centre is currently in the process of building the first of three more which are planned for the Loch Tay Location.   The Centre consists of a small museum and an Iron Age village, which showcases tradtional Iron Age trades and craftmanship.  Brian and I explored the museum and village and I found it very interesting and educational.  

Leaving the Scottish Crannog Centre, we faced one of the longer drives of our trip, almost one hundred miles.  Fortunately, our route (almost due north) was through Cairngorms National Park, which is Scotland’s largest national park at over 1,700 square miles.  We enjoyed some beautiful highlands scenery as we made this pleasant drive under cloudy skies.   

About two and a half hours later we found ourselves pulling into the car park next to the duck pond at Dowan’s Hotel in Aberlour, where we would spend the next two nights.  Dowan’s is a renovated Victorian mansion over looking the River Spey valley and just outside the charming little village of Aberlour.  We settled into our rooms and freshened up before dinner.  Dowan’s, like many of the older hotels in Scotland, uses names for the rooms, not numbers.  My room at Dowan’s was “Cragganmore” — it was by far my smallest acommodation of the trip, but, ironically, one of the most enjoyable and comfortable.  

Our dinner that evening was a special Scottish Whiskey Pairing at Dowans —  a four-course dinner where each dish was intentionally paired with a specific Scotch whisky, highlighting the flavors and stories of both the food and the spirits presented by our waiter. Speaking of our waiter was quite knowledgeable, and turned our dinner into a very enjoyable and educational experience. With each course he paired a rare Scotch Whiskey for Brian and a whimsical “Shirley Temple” for me. We dined liesurely in a room called the Whiskey Snug which we had all to ourselves — with one whole wall full of whiskies, it was a dramatic setting for a wonderful dinner that I will never forget! 

After dinner, I walked the gardens around the hotel then found a comfortable seat outside and enjoyed a lingering sunset.  A perfect way to end a perfect day in the Scottish Highlands!

This is the end of Part 2 of my Scotland Trip.  To go to Part 3, press the button below…